An Anglo-American Dictionary of Sartorial Terms

[Sator]

Braces = suspenders
Cravat = Ascot
Derbies = Bluchers
Dinner jacket = Tuxedo
Double breasted styled lapels = Peaked lapels
Overcoat/coat = coat
Lounge coat/jacket = jacket
Lounge suit = sack suit, or business suit
Morning coat = cutaway
Morning dress = morning dress
Oxford shoes/boots = Balmoral shoes/boots
Pick-and-pick (weave) = sharkskin
Step notch lapel (tailoring parlance) = Notched lapel
Trousers = pants (short for pantaloons)
Waistcoat (vest in tailoring parlance) = vest

Have I missed anything?

[storeynicholas]

Here are a few more:
full brogues (shoes) = wing tips;
top coat is another word in British English for overcoat;
bowler or coke (hat) = derby;
dinner jacket = dinner suit (sometimes as well 'tuxedo');
turn-ups (on trousers) = cuffs;
plus twos, plus fours, breeches, breeks = knickerbockers (also British English sometimes);
trews (close-fitting Scottish tartan trousers) = pants also;
undervest = singlet;

A question - does the American English 'cutaway' also cover a swallow-tail evening coat, as well as a morning coat?
I've noticed that English tailors call a 'waistcoat' a 'vest' and 'braces' 'suspenders' and wonder to what extent they use these terms because a large share of their business is American and so they use the terms to be understood?
NJS

[Sator]

Good list, NJS. I knew I'd forgotten something.

The word "vest" is a much older word in English than "waistcoat", dating back to the time of Henry VIII. I think this is an instance where the American English represents the use of an older, archaic language than the British equivalent. Some old English tailoring manuals also use the term "vest".

"Cutaway" was also once the British term used for morning coats for a while in the 19th C. Prior to that it was known as a "Newmarket coat". Only morning coats are called cutaways, as you can see in the famous Berlin song:

Puttin' on the Ritz
Different types who wear a day coat
Pants with stripes and cutaway coat
Perfect fits

Notice that the words "day coat" and "cutaway coat" rhyme. There is no doubt that "cutaway" can refer only to a morning coat.

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum

[storeynicholas]

Sator,
Thank you, that's very informative - and entertaining at the same time. Moreover, I shall sing the song in the bathroom shortly!
NJS

[marcelo]

"slip-on" = "loafer". Would you include this entry in your dictionary? I am not sure about this.

[garu]

To add at a most basic level...

pants = underpants/underwear

garu

[RWS]

British "pants" = American "undershorts".

"Topcoat" is common in both usages; "coat" in American usage is very general, encompassing almost everything other than jackets worn over the torso as an outer garment removed upon entering a building.

[storeynicholas]

"slip-on" = "loafer". Would you include this entry in your dictionary? I am not sure about this.

Interestingly, 'loafer' comes into English from Urdu/Punjabi - bearing its literal meaning of 'layabout' - so if it is American it might well be by way of English - in which a certain style of slip-on is sometimes called a 'loafer' - typically comprising a stitched apron and tassels; although Lobb's Norwegian loafer lacks the tassels. It might be said that the loafer loafs in loafers and, for some of us, these are amongst the most important shoes in our possession.

here are a few more which I found - British English on the left:
mac = raincoat;
gumboots/wellies = galoshes [?];
trainers = sneakers;
(sock) suspenders = hold-ups;
dressing gown = robe/bathrobe;
polo neck jumper = turtle neck sweater [?]

Anyone know whether a Tautz collar/lapel is the same in each?

NJS

[storeynicholas]

British "pants" = American "undershorts".

"Topcoat" is common in both usages; "coat" in American usage is very general, encompassing almost everything other than jackets worn over the torso as an outer garment removed upon entering a building.

Fairly recently, a slang term in British English, has evolved: to describe something as 'pants' or 'a load of pants' is to suggest that it is twaddle, piffle etc or comprises worthless goods - so now British people often say 'underpants' instead of just 'pants' to describe 'smalls' which, of course (with 'small clothes') is obsolete. Thank goodness that we have 'boxer shorts' or 'boxers' as an alternative!
NJS

[RWS]

Interestingly, 'loafer' comes into English from Urdu/Punjabi - bearing its literal meaning of 'layabout' - so if it is American it might well be by way of English - in which a certain style of slip-on is sometimes called a 'loafer' - typically comprising a stitched apron and tassels; although Lobb's Norwegian loafer lacks the tassels. . . .

Any "slip-on" is a "loafer" in American English. The "penny loafer", probably the best-known and best-liked, has a simple strap across the instep, no tassels.

. . . British English on the left:
. . . gumboots/wellies = galoshes [?]

"Galoshes", for those of us on the western coast of the Atlantic, are buckled on; "rubber boots" are British "gumboots".

. . . (sock) suspenders = hold-ups

This is new to me! I always thought that they were "sock suspenders" or "hose suspenders".

. . . dressing gown = robe/bathrobe

An American "dressing gown" does exist; it's not the same as a bathrobe.

polo neck jumper = turtle neck sweater [?]

Or a "polo-neck sweater".

Anyone know whether a Tautz collar/lapel is the same in each? . . . .

I think so but have heard the term too seldom to be clear on it.

[storeynicholas]

RWS - thanks for the clarification and extra information. On 'galoshes': in Britain 'galoshes' are protective rubber overshoes; although button boots or shoes are called 'galosh-topped'. When you mention buckling on galoshes, you refer I think to what British English would call 'gaiters' is that right?
NJS

[RWS]

"Galoshes" in American English are protective overboots, buttoned or (more often) buckled on. Rubber overshoes are called "rubbers" (save in certain circles, I think, in which the term is a synonym for "condoms").

I've been gone from England too long to remember what "gaiters" are save as a part of military uniform.

[storeynicholas]

Thank you RWS. This thread is getting into its.. stride... is it not? there seems to be some confusion in British English because galoshes can be overshoes and galosh-tops are button shoes or boots (with the tops built-in). I don't think that the weather conditions in most of the UK ever get to US overboot/galoshes stage (maybe in Scotland) but, of course, by that point, we probably share another type of winterwear - moon boots!!

Gaiters are as you describe - just like the military variety and seldom now used in the countryside or, indeed, by Bishops.
NJS

[NCW]

Gaiters are seen almost universally in the Lakes (except for those with breeches and high lanolin stockings...). They are still all the rage, and in Scotland (on t' Ben) in winter you now see people wearing boots with built-in gaiters like this (with the lacing under the zip). They are basically just like long, durable spats (or rather were the precursor to spats, which originally served the same purpose). I have a pair in old waxed canvas and in stretch GoreTex (vastly superior).

I also suggest one more addition:

informal ≡ formal

[Gruto]

Black jacket = Stroller, cf. http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... c&start=15