Buenos Aires
RWS, if it's not too much too ask, how much did you pay for your last suit at Cheverny? I'm headed down to BA soon and would like to pay them a visit.
'Certainly not too much to ask! The question might be whether it was too much to pay: I think it was not.
I supplied my own cloth and thus paid only for hechura. This "making" of a two-piece, single-breasted suit cost AR$2,900; that of an additional pair of trousers, AR$500: so, for a suitcoat and two pairs of trousers, I paid about US$1,500, including US$300 or so for the cloth. (I would urge the bringing of one's own cloth, as the selection at porteño tailors is limited and expensive.)
Prices have risen about thirty percent over the past year for most goods in Buenos Aires, though the conversion rate between the Argentine peso and the American dollar has actually worsened a bit against the dollar; so the cost to make up the same suit today might be about US$1,600 plus the cost of the cloth. I'm reluctant to say that that represents a real advantage for us -- perhaps we should descend upon Bucharest instead! But common wisdom (and, yes, we remember that common goods are worth common prices) is that the Argentine economy is gearing up for another of its periodic busts -- wait two years? three or four? -- after which Argentine tailors' skills will again represent a valuable resource for American and European patrons.
I supplied my own cloth and thus paid only for hechura. This "making" of a two-piece, single-breasted suit cost AR$2,900; that of an additional pair of trousers, AR$500: so, for a suitcoat and two pairs of trousers, I paid about US$1,500, including US$300 or so for the cloth. (I would urge the bringing of one's own cloth, as the selection at porteño tailors is limited and expensive.)
Prices have risen about thirty percent over the past year for most goods in Buenos Aires, though the conversion rate between the Argentine peso and the American dollar has actually worsened a bit against the dollar; so the cost to make up the same suit today might be about US$1,600 plus the cost of the cloth. I'm reluctant to say that that represents a real advantage for us -- perhaps we should descend upon Bucharest instead! But common wisdom (and, yes, we remember that common goods are worth common prices) is that the Argentine economy is gearing up for another of its periodic busts -- wait two years? three or four? -- after which Argentine tailors' skills will again represent a valuable resource for American and European patrons.
I returned to Buenos Aires a few days ago. I anticipate being here a comparatively short time this summer (southern winter). But already I have sad news.
Worst is what I learned at Cheverny when I dropped by the shop on Thursday or Friday. The founder of the house, José Marturano (my fellow Loungers may remember that he was Italian-born and at least in part Italian-trained, but an immigrant to Argentina, as many millions of his former countrymen, early in life), died in January from cancer and its complications. He leaves a widow and a son, who had chosen not to follow his father into the tailor´s trade.* Sr. Marturano was, if I remember correctly, seventy-nine years old.
The house continues, however, with José Sica as head (or sole) cutter. As Sr. Marturano was, Sr. Sica is Italian-born and trained, also excellent in his work, but not at all formal in personal interaction. We may hope that this slightly younger man is also in better health.
I attempted to see again a shirtmaker recommended to me last year, and whom I visited at the end of my time here last August. The shop was shuttered. A merchant nearby told me that the elderly couple (the husband and wife are all that remain of a workforce that once counted a score or more employees) were both sick, very sick.
Lastly, I telephoned Casa Fagliano. Work on my shoes, begun a year ago, has not progressed. The house is overwhelmed with orders for polo boots (the specialty of the house, often, I´m told, considered the best in the world for these) and has been obliged to devote all efforts to their making. After a bit of mild verbal pressing, I was assured that the shoes should be completed early next year. We´ll see.
I am a bit anxious about those shoes, not only about their completion (the eagerness that we all experience to see a commission completed and to feel the long-dreamt-of article actually on one´s body) but about their cost. Prices have risen a great deal in Argentine pesos over the past few years, and the American dollar has actually fallen a bit against the currency. In but one example, I learned that the making of a new suit coat to replace the one my wrong-headed urging so impaired would cost about as much as the entire suit cost last year, even though I would as before supply the cloth.
Do stay tuned to this channel, fellow Loungers, for the further adventures of your not-so-intrepid sartorial explorer of the far South.
*The local American tailor, also Italian-born and trained, whose services in repairs and alterations I had for years employed, died about the same time. He was almost exactly the same age as Sr. Marturano and, as he, left a single child who had chosen not to follow his father´s trade. Is this becoming a worldwide (or even just a hemisphere-wide) phenomenon?
Worst is what I learned at Cheverny when I dropped by the shop on Thursday or Friday. The founder of the house, José Marturano (my fellow Loungers may remember that he was Italian-born and at least in part Italian-trained, but an immigrant to Argentina, as many millions of his former countrymen, early in life), died in January from cancer and its complications. He leaves a widow and a son, who had chosen not to follow his father into the tailor´s trade.* Sr. Marturano was, if I remember correctly, seventy-nine years old.
The house continues, however, with José Sica as head (or sole) cutter. As Sr. Marturano was, Sr. Sica is Italian-born and trained, also excellent in his work, but not at all formal in personal interaction. We may hope that this slightly younger man is also in better health.
I attempted to see again a shirtmaker recommended to me last year, and whom I visited at the end of my time here last August. The shop was shuttered. A merchant nearby told me that the elderly couple (the husband and wife are all that remain of a workforce that once counted a score or more employees) were both sick, very sick.
Lastly, I telephoned Casa Fagliano. Work on my shoes, begun a year ago, has not progressed. The house is overwhelmed with orders for polo boots (the specialty of the house, often, I´m told, considered the best in the world for these) and has been obliged to devote all efforts to their making. After a bit of mild verbal pressing, I was assured that the shoes should be completed early next year. We´ll see.
I am a bit anxious about those shoes, not only about their completion (the eagerness that we all experience to see a commission completed and to feel the long-dreamt-of article actually on one´s body) but about their cost. Prices have risen a great deal in Argentine pesos over the past few years, and the American dollar has actually fallen a bit against the currency. In but one example, I learned that the making of a new suit coat to replace the one my wrong-headed urging so impaired would cost about as much as the entire suit cost last year, even though I would as before supply the cloth.
Do stay tuned to this channel, fellow Loungers, for the further adventures of your not-so-intrepid sartorial explorer of the far South.
*The local American tailor, also Italian-born and trained, whose services in repairs and alterations I had for years employed, died about the same time. He was almost exactly the same age as Sr. Marturano and, as he, left a single child who had chosen not to follow his father´s trade. Is this becoming a worldwide (or even just a hemisphere-wide) phenomenon?
Last edited by RWS on Tue Sep 09, 2008 4:47 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Well, I bit the bullet. After a most enjoyable chocolate at a very pleasant hotel in ¨Barrio Norte¨ (two northern neighborhoods of Buenos Aires, Recoleta and Retiro, taken together, and forming an area of handsome yet costly apartment houses, parks, and shops) as the guest of fellow Lounger ¨whyescalar¨, I went to Cheverney, gave them my cloth, and went ahead with the making of a suitcoat to replace the one cut last year with an overhigh buttoning point.
Last edited by RWS on Tue Aug 19, 2008 3:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Thanks for your report. I am still amazed that there is so little bespoke shoemaking and so many cattle and humans in Argentina.It's hard to belive that you can't gte shoes unlike in Brazil; where for the right price you get plenty. The last time I was in BsAs 1981! there were a lot of little shoe shops.
Meister, there still are many shoesellers, some of which (Lopez Tailbo among them) will make to measure. However, with one or two exceptions, none appear to make as well or from as good leather as the best American, English, and European shoemakers. As I´m interested in shoes (and boots) that I´d actually enjoy wearing for a long, long time, I´m not likely to commission from other than Fagliano. However, their slowness has me thinking again of approaching one or two others, including the outstanding Rossi & Caruso (who told me a few years ago that they´d ceased making to measure).
More later, I expect.
More later, I expect.
Thank you, RWS, for a very nice description of Buenos Aires.
I have been to Bs As severeal times, my first visit was in 1989, my last one this winter. However, I have never had time to visit any bespoke tailors.
Buenos Aires is a very european city with a cosmopolitan flavour. This winter, I only stayed for a couple of days before going to Tucuman with my family.
I spent a lot of time in Galerias Pacifico, and in Patio Bullrich (Two shopping malls). I passed by Lopez Taibo. Prices were up 60-70% since my last visit in 2005. A nice pair of shoes were between 130-200 USD.
Still not expensive, but not as cheap as it used to be.
As always, high quality meat and handicrafts (mostly leather) are a bargain.
Once you go to other parts of the country (Tucuman lies in the NW part of the country, 1000 km from Buenos Aires), everything gets cheaper.
I have been to Bs As severeal times, my first visit was in 1989, my last one this winter. However, I have never had time to visit any bespoke tailors.
Buenos Aires is a very european city with a cosmopolitan flavour. This winter, I only stayed for a couple of days before going to Tucuman with my family.
I spent a lot of time in Galerias Pacifico, and in Patio Bullrich (Two shopping malls). I passed by Lopez Taibo. Prices were up 60-70% since my last visit in 2005. A nice pair of shoes were between 130-200 USD.
Still not expensive, but not as cheap as it used to be.
As always, high quality meat and handicrafts (mostly leather) are a bargain.
Once you go to other parts of the country (Tucuman lies in the NW part of the country, 1000 km from Buenos Aires), everything gets cheaper.
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whyescalar
- Posts: 90
- Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 4:57 pm
- Location: Dagobah
- Contact:
http://www.sastreriacheverny.com.ar/Home%20Es.html
Our friends have a new website, however simple. Excellent people, excellent work.
Our friends have a new website, however simple. Excellent people, excellent work.
Quite a nice 'site. Like the clothes that the little firm makes: clean, simple, elegant.
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storeynicholas
RWS wrote:Quite a nice 'site. Like the clothes that the little firm makes: clean, simple, elegant.
There you are!
NJS
Has anyone been gto Buenos Aires recently and checked out the price level?
Pichao
Pichao
Dear RWS,
Thanks for the brilliant reports on Buenos Aires. As an Argentine would put it: "Bárbaro"! Very useful information indeed.
I wanted to ask you something about Cheverny shirts. I will travel at least three times to BA next semester and would gladly spare a visit to the shop and have some shirts made. But I wanted to know in advance whether they use fused or non-fused collars and cuffs. I deem this to be an important feature for my shirts.
Muchísimas Gracias.
All the best,
Luis
Thanks for the brilliant reports on Buenos Aires. As an Argentine would put it: "Bárbaro"! Very useful information indeed.
I wanted to ask you something about Cheverny shirts. I will travel at least three times to BA next semester and would gladly spare a visit to the shop and have some shirts made. But I wanted to know in advance whether they use fused or non-fused collars and cuffs. I deem this to be an important feature for my shirts.
Muchísimas Gracias.
All the best,
Luis
Luis
I cannot comment about Cheverny, but most shirtmakers will make the collars and cuffs as you prefer them: fused or not.
Cheers
Michael
I cannot comment about Cheverny, but most shirtmakers will make the collars and cuffs as you prefer them: fused or not.
Cheers
Michael
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