Is Bespoke allways better ?

[Sator]

...but many fine chefs would get the old cleaver out if they were asked to improvise around another's receipt.... I even recall, once, ordering an over-late breakfast in an hotel restaurant and the consequential clattering of pans and screaming in the kitchen led me to flee for my life.... and settle (gratefully enough, it must be said), for a Cafe Rouge baguette...
NJS.

Yes, my analogy of RTW as fast food, MTM as a chain restaurant, and bespoke as ordering a la carte from a restaurant is a poor one in many ways. But I imagine that you do see my point nonetheless.

[storeynicholas]

I do, indeed. However, I was jolly glad not to see the straight edge of that chef's cleaver!! I call that a close shave.
NJS

[Costi]

I do, indeed. However, I was jolly glad not to see the straight edge of that chef's cleaver!! I call that a close shave.
NJS

[Costi]

Change the tailor well having tried AS, Dege, Pool, Huntsman and Rubinacci who do you suggest as I am lead to believe these are the best or as good as the best.

Well, to me that is proof enough you must be wrong in your evaluation, or everyone else who is happy with the tailors working for these houses is... what? You name it.
Poole must be among the first you dismissed 25 years ago since it is the second time you misspell their name

It's sad when everyone disappoints you and you run out of alternatives. And quite lonely when you hold the truth, against the whole world.

To me the line of reasoning "bespoke tailors may make mistakes ergo RTW is better" is nothing but a sophism, because bespoke and RTW are different animals and because while A is true it simply does not imply B.

[mmkn2]

Would be interested in your opinion.

My short answer is if you can see your garment continuing to evolve towards what you have in mind with a maker, then it is better. If not, then the bespoke process has stopped, and you are getting something similar to RTW or MTM, something that doesn't "fit" you.

I'm going to leave with a quote from Jon Green . . . "I've never made a perfect suit, even at $$,$$$." Knowing what he can do, that statement is very humbling.

- M

[Gruto]

When it comes to the perfect suit, I think that many (me too) are influenced by the lean fashion suit from the 90s and 00s. To demand that bespoke should reproduce or refine this fashion suit is a mistake. Bespoke is about fit and rules, which only change slowly. A bespoke suit should be judged in relation to this micro world, not the fashion world.

[sartorius]

having tried AS, Dege, Pool, Huntsman and Rubinacci

Perhaps you could explain more precisely what it was about each of these makers that didn't come up to scratch? For example, was it a similar issue in each case, or have you had unrelated problems which were individual to each one?

[alden]

Some of the responses to Wasser's comments have been just a tad dismissive. I know nothing of Polo shirts but I have some sympathy when he recounts his experience with suits. I too have had bespoke suits made which, frankly, were not very good. Now it may be that, at the time, I just did not know enough to be able to properly engage with my tailor but how necessary should this be if one wishes to obtain a competently made garment from an artisan? I am a surgeon. I engage in a degree of discussion with my patients about their expectations but if they are disinterested or uncomprehending I don't send them away half fixed. I do my best for them because I am a professional and that is my job. Similarly I don't expect my tailor to send me away with a fault-ridden garment merely because I don't spot the faults. And here we are surely talking about objective problems rather than subjective matters of taste and style.

It seems to me that there are some very good quality RTW garments out there IF you happen to be just the right proportions. I am not and that is the first reason I choose bespoke. The second is that I enjoy the process - choosing the cloth, discussing style and details - and the personal service in a world where this is sadly lacking. The third is that there is little to beat the feeling of wearing something that is completely unique and which one has had a hand in bringing to fruition. As I become (slightly) more knowledgeable I think the results become better but I still rely on good tailors doing their job to the best of their ability.

Scot,

This is an outstanding post. If only tailors took a Hippocratic oath, the problem you rightly identify might be solved. But they don't. I am sure in the old days, bad tailors simply went bust and closed their shops. Today, the demand exceeding the supply of competent professionals means many who should not be in the trade, are in business. One of the things we try to do in the LL is identify the pros from the cons. But at the end of the day, you have to use a little caveat emptor and learn the basics to get the most from your experience. I am working on restoring an 18th century country stone house now and I have the same challenges with masons and electricians..

Cheers

Michael Alden

[pvpatty]

I am working on restoring an 18th century country stone house now and I have the same challenges with masons and electricians..

Cheers

Michael Alden

In Greece at least, my experience has been that they tend to turn up a lot more regularly and do a better job when they hear that your cousin is married to the deputy chief of police on the island!

[alden]

In Greece at least, my experience has been that they tend to turn up a lot more regularly and do a better job when they hear that your cousin is married to the deputy chief of police on the island!

Well the psychological approach to dealing with craftsmen has been explored on this site. And there are many tactics to be employed. At 150 euros a man per day, you'd better get the masons tuned in fast!

[Greger]

It is said sometimes if you find a good cutter then stay with him. If the cutter moves from business to business, then that is where you go if he is working there.

One of the differences of factory and tailoring is the factory uses molds and jigs snd whatever so each is identical, such as blowing glass into a mold. Tailors are craftsman and they each have their own ways, so when the cutter hands the coat to tailor A and then the next time to tailor B there will be some difference.

Another option is going to much smaller companies where there are only a few tailors or the cutter does the tailoring.himself. Big name companies does not always equal the best.