My First Bespoke Suit

[DazJ]

Dear members,

Although a fairly frequent visitor to the LL, this is my first post. I have been reading with avid interest the numerous threads, topics and experiences posted here for which I would like to thank you all. The information I have gleaned here has helped me to make that initial move to a bespoke suit.

I have selected Steven Hitchcock as I prefer the softer style over the more structured look, his prices are very reasonable and he is passionate about his craft.

I have my initial meeting with him this Friday for measurements and cloth selection and am very excited about this project and to establish (I hope) a long-lasting relationship.

If any of the members here use Steven, then any last minute pointers would be greatly appreciated. If you would like to see photo's as I have the fittings, then I would be happy to oblige.

Again, my thanks to you for the information that has been posted here.

Regards,
Darren

[Concordia]

Have fun.

He's a good cutter/fitter. Listen carefully to his advice on that front.

The downside to his youth is that (a) he is not always assertive about making cloth or color recommendations, and (b) he hasn't done every wacky thing in existence. If you want to do a really odd sort of overcoat, for example, there might be others better able to make it happen.

Also, you might want to have him write out the specs (fabric #, buttons, pockets, etc.) just to keep for reference. I've had a few misfires that could have been averted by better communication. Today, for example, I'm wearing a ticket pocket that I'm sure I didn't explicitly ask for and might even have asked not to have. Because I can't remember which and the suit turned out so well, I didn't press the issue-- but it's something I plan to watch.

Anyway, for a basic lounge suit, he does decent work. I like his approach to style. Don't skimp on fittings, choose good fabric, and you should get something pretty good for your trouble.

[Sator]

The downside to his youth is that (a) he is not always assertive about making cloth or color recommendations, and (b) he hasn't done every wacky thing in existence. If you want to do a really odd sort of overcoat, for example, there might be others better able to make it happen.

Different tailors have varying degrees of tolerance of this kind of thing. Some will melt down at the thought of belted backs, action pleats, Norfolk jackets, and body coats of any kind. Others love a good challenge.

Also, you might want to have him write out the specs (fabric #, buttons, pockets, etc.) just to keep for reference. I've had a few misfires that could have been averted by better communication. Today, for example, I'm wearing a ticket pocket that I'm sure I didn't explicitly ask for and might even have asked not to have. Because I can't remember which and the suit turned out so well, I didn't press the issue-- but it's something I plan to watch.

I go to my tailor with a two to three page print out of everything in fine detail. He doesn't mind it as it saves him having to write it all down himself. I include pictures of the number of buttons, style of pockets (flaps vs jetted, hacking, ticket), style of waistcoat (eg SB vs DB, Nr of buttons, pockets, lapel style, lining vs cloth back), functional cuffs, presence/absence of turn ups or pleats on the trousers, belt vs brace trousers, fully vs half/quarter lined. There are so many little things to note down that it is easy to miss a detail here or there. I still manage to forget something. My tailor just rang up the other day to clarify whether I wanted a pleated or flat front on the trousers.

A picture borrowed from AA or Esky can be useful if you have something special in mind. In the old days people did take those sorts of fashion illustrations to their tailors. That was what they were meant for in fact. Some old surviving fashion plates have evidence of a client or tailor drawing in alterations to the cut.

[DFR]

Photographs would be interesting.

Try to get some with and without the jacket - front and rear views. The fit of the trousers is so often neglected yet important in the appearance and comfort of the suit.