What cloth is this?

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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yachtie
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Thu Mar 27, 2008 2:00 pm

It's not flannel- but what kind of cloth has significant " nap" like this sportcoat:

Image
The Doctor
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Thu Mar 27, 2008 2:59 pm

Could be a Doeskin, which is a fine woollen, warp-face cloth usually of Merino wool, milled, raised and dress-face finished.
RWS
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Thu Mar 27, 2008 3:18 pm

Is it napped, or is it hopsacking or some other coarse weave?
manton
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Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:27 pm

RWS wrote:Is it napped, or is it hopsacking or some other coarse weave?
Doeskin is napped and very soft, defiinitely not a hopsack, and not the least bit course.

The problem with those old illustrations is that the only way to know what the cloth is supposed to be is to read the original captions. I would guess doeskin, too, because of ths sheen that the artist put on it.
angelo
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Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:36 pm

Yatchie,
the image shown by You has been published by Etutee in his post Vol III N°II Aug'07 Summer Comphrensive Guide AA in the Archive of Featured Articles Section.
I am enclosing the original comments to the image as well as the additional Etutee's comments present in the above Etutee's post

AA comments:THE WENCH GOES DOWN TO SEE THE SHIPS

The young man in the center is dressed in the conventional sea-going manner for sailing or yachting, wearing a double-breasted homespun tweed blazer with grey flannel trousers, white buck shoes with black rubber soles and heels, white oxford button-down-collar-attached shirt and club stripe tie. .........

Etutee's comments:
Here it must be mentioned that the weight of these summer homespun tweeds was no more than 11oz. Usually it was observed between 9-11oz.

I do not know in which fabrics book this homespun summer tweed could be available today.

Angelo
storeynicholas

Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:39 pm

I think that it's possibly tussore or mohair.
NJS
Concordia
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Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:42 pm

I wonder why he's wearing two left shoes.
storeynicholas

Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:44 pm

Because he has two left feet - and we know what became of PG Wodehouse's 'The Man With Two Left Feet' - don't we??
NJS
Concordia
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Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:50 pm

angelo wrote:Yatchie,
the image shown by You has been published by Etutee in his post Vol III N°II Aug'07 Summer Comphrensive Guide AA in the Archive of Featured Articles Section.
I am enclosing the original comments to the image as well as the additional Etutee's comments present in the above Etutee's post

AA comments:THE WENCH GOES DOWN TO SEE THE SHIPS

The young man in the center is dressed in the conventional sea-going manner for sailing or yachting, wearing a double-breasted homespun tweed blazer with grey flannel trousers, white buck shoes with black rubber soles and heels, white oxford button-down-collar-attached shirt and club stripe tie. .........

Etutee's comments:
Here it must be mentioned that the weight of these summer homespun tweeds was no more than 11oz. Usually it was observed between 9-11oz.

I do not know in which fabrics book this homespun summer tweed could be available today.

Angelo
I don't know how closely one mimics the other, but this blue tweed might be something the folks involved with Breanish might be convinced to recreate. I'm just trying to imagine wearing that sort of tweed in the summer, and not yet having success.
yachtie
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Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:58 pm

Concordia wrote:
angelo wrote:Yatchie,
the image shown by You has been published by Etutee in his post Vol III N°II Aug'07 Summer Comphrensive Guide AA in the Archive of Featured Articles Section.
I am enclosing the original comments to the image as well as the additional Etutee's comments present in the above Etutee's post

AA comments:THE WENCH GOES DOWN TO SEE THE SHIPS

The young man in the center is dressed in the conventional sea-going manner for sailing or yachting, wearing a double-breasted homespun tweed blazer with grey flannel trousers, white buck shoes with black rubber soles and heels, white oxford button-down-collar-attached shirt and club stripe tie. .........

Etutee's comments:
Here it must be mentioned that the weight of these summer homespun tweeds was no more than 11oz. Usually it was observed between 9-11oz.

I do not know in which fabrics book this homespun summer tweed could be available today.

Angelo
I don't know how closely one mimics the other, but this blue tweed might be something the folks involved with Breanish might be convinced to recreate. I'm just trying to imagine wearing that sort of tweed in the summer, and not yet having success.
I don't have a connection at Breanish- anyone think it might be something Michael would be interested in sponsoring for the Cloth Club? 9-11 oz? It'd work for me. :)
Concordia
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Thu Mar 27, 2008 7:36 pm

They'll do small custom runs in normal tweeds, and tiny ones in cashmere. A few months ago they were saying that they could do about 12 meters for a bespoke cashmere run (5m= 1 jacket).

http://www.breanishtweed.co.uk/index.ph ... e&Itemid=1
a tailor
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Fri Apr 18, 2008 2:34 am

the effect that the artist has given us, looks to me like a silk shantung.
storeynicholas

Fri Apr 18, 2008 3:49 pm

Yes I suggeste 'tussore' above but that is silk from a very specific moth and I think that it is used in its natural beige or cream colour whereas this is plainly dyed blue and so I have learned that the correct name for this wild silk is shantung silk - thanks!! This does seem far more likely for a yachting jacket (note the yachting cap tucked under his arm) than tweed!
NJS
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