English v Neapolitan - is it all in the length?

[Gruto]

Very stylish, great combinations.

Maybe the buttoning point of the blazer is a bit low. Also, the blazer has a lot of drape compared to number 1 and 3. I like the lean look more.

[kolecho]

Stephen,

The outfits look great to me. Your body shape plays a big part in the very stylish look that you exude. Bravo!

Regarding jacket length, a more open front quarter will give the illusion of a shorter jacket. Your jacket length looks great with the slim cut trousers.

[iammatt]

As far as the question of Your post "English v Neapolitan - is it all in the length?" I believe that jacket length does not represent the main difference between the two tailoring schools; indeed only Mariano Rubinacci , according to the taste of his father Gennaro tightly bound to the traditional style of the '30s , still loves to make shorter jackets differently from other neapolitan tailors and that sounds , in addition to other sublime details, as a personal signature.
Angelo

I think this is right. From what I can tell in Naples, many people don't really consider Rubinacci a particularly Neapolitan style. Some consider it a good thing, and some not so good. Most jackets are much longer, bordering on, at least too me, too long. It is really a style of its own, much like Anderson is, as Alden alluded to in his post about Rome and Naples.

Another Neapolitan tailor Marigliano in a longer coat:



As opposed to yours truly:

[whnay.]

S,

Well done, I particulary like the gray odd coat and trousers in the first picture.

[MatthewClarke]

I think that all three look excellent. You have superb taste.

If I were to be critical, I would only note the following:

1) The breast pocket on the first jacket appears a little large, relative to the proportions of the rest of the jacket, to my eyes;
2) You appear to have one arm longer than the other and the sleeve length hasn't been modified to reflect this (or perhaps one side keeps riding up before the photo).

Other than that, I truly think these are superb jackets and I would not have them any longer - the break is just right to my eyes and is extremely flattering. The high notches on the lapels (and resulting deep 'v') give the impression of length, in any case.

I really do like these jackets - you have done a fine job.

[sartorius]

I have always been led to believe that jacket length is a function first and foremost of the subject's stature (e.g. tall or short) and secondly of the garmet's intended use (e.g. formal, casual, summer, winter).

For example, I have two suits from the same SR tailor which were made within months of one another. There is a difference in jacket length of around an inch. The shorter coat is part of a summer suit which has been cut more fully (on the basis that for summer wear, one really needs a little extra space to breathe), while the longer coat is part of a business suit which is cut very lean. The difference in silhouette is, to my eye, quite distinct. They were cut by the same man for the same subject, and each has its place in my wardrobe.

So, while we all inevitably have our own aesthetic preferences, I think it is somewhat futile to labour over the length of a coat for aesthetic reasons alone. As with all things sartorial, fit and utility must (to my english sensibility at least) trump pure aesthetics.

[NCW]

As with all things sartorial, fit and utility must (to my english sensibility at least) trump pure aesthetics.

Fit certainly, but when have the English ever allowed the utility of flow-disrupting pockets; siestas in the Raj; or even comfortable, but less well draped, light weight cloth to dissuade our sense of elegant rectitude?

Nevertheless, I agree that the appropriate length varies depending on the context. I also think that the jackets are indeed very nice.

[The Doctor]

Keep wearing them, they look great.

[sartorius]

Fit certainly, but when have the English ever allowed the utility of ... light weight cloth to dissuade our sense of elegant rectitude?

NCW - I would agree with you in part, but we should remember that SR suits are made for the english climate and for 9 months of the year that means medium weight cloth or heavier.

[oscarsfan]

There is an aesthetic harmony in your jackets. Like many others here, I like the gray one the most. If one is looking at it, with difficulty, one may be to determine small improvements, but from a piece of fabric to these coats is indeed a wonderful are incredibly rare transformation.

How did you arrive at the width of the lapels, the amount of drape, the button point etc in the third jacket? Was it input from the tailor? In my mind, this is the sort of thing that distinguishes an artist from a technician.

-

[zegnamtl]

Those jackets look fabulous on you!