Scarlet Evening Tails - Correct Etiquette - Please advise

[HappyStroller]

Thank you, Sir, for the very enlightening illustrations. 'nuff said!

[Noble Savage]

A pink coat would not usually take grosgrain facings as you describe. That is mostly only seen on a dress coat proper. You won't really find any red grosgrain anyway - at least I have never seen it in any books. That said I have found this historical example from Huntsman of Savile Row:

You can get red grosgrain for facings: http://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/catal ... ts_id=1634

[Noble Savage]

[old henry]

i would love to read that whole last paragraph.

[Noble Savage]

251

Hunt Ball Outfits.
A FULL DESCRIPTION OF ALL THE DISTINCTIVE DETAILS.
Every recognized member of a “ Hunt ” must of a necessity include in his dress equipment a costume for wear at its official balls and social gatherings, and the masters of the hunt are notoriously very exacting as to the accuracy of its details. In the most exclusive hunts every member devotes particular attention to his ball costume: and no tailor who hopes to succeed in his business can afford to ignore what may be termed the official regulations.
The Full Dress Costume as worn at hunt balls consists of a scarlet or “ pink ” dress coat, a white Marcella dress vest, and black satin breeches, black silk stockings, and ordinary dancing pumps.
The Dress Coat is cut on the usual lines of a standard dress coat with detached lapels. The bottom of skirts is rounded at the front in the form suggested in the diagrams. These coats should be cut very shapely and carefully manipulated by the workman so that good form is infused into them. The material selected for hunt ball coats is scarlet, or as it is termed “ pink ” cloth. It can now be obtained in soft makes the texture of which lends itself admirably to the manipulation of the iron. The lapels are usually faced with scarlet silk, but in certain hunts a regulation shade of colour contrasting with the scarlet of the coat is introduced. In such coats the predominating colours are white, cream, or buff. In all cases the fronts are finished in the old-fashioned form consisting in carrying the silk forward only as far as the ends of the buttonholes. The ends of the collar are mostly finished plain, but in some cases the old style of “ snip, ” so loved by our forefathers, is inserted. The shape of this “ snip ” is suggested on the diagram of the coat. The coat is lined throughout with scarlet silk. The edges of lapels and skirts are single-stitched by hand. Gilt buttons, displaying the monogram of the hunt are “ plugged ” on in the usual dress-coat positions. The sleeve bands are finished in various distinctive forms. Plain round cuffs, 4 in. deep, in which two or three holes and buttons are inserted is the most general style, but in certain cases the cuffs are made up in the forms suggested on the diagram page, with two holes below and one above the top edge of the cuff.
The Vest is cut in the standard dress form, and is finished with a roll collar about 3 in. wide over the round of the breast. There are four holes below the turn, and rather deep points at the bottom of the front edges. The material is a white Marcella; these vests must be finished with eyelet holes so that the buttons may be changed when desired. The buttons are usually gilt. Some exquisites wear buttons set with diamonds on important occasions.
The Breeches are cut from a stout make of black satin. The outline is the same as that of the recognized “ Court ” style. Below the knees the breeches are finished with a narrow garter which fastens through a black buckle. There are three holes at each knee. The buttons are covered with black satin. Side pockets are inserted, and very frequently a “ fob ” pocket on either the right or left side as preferred by the wearer. These breeches must be cut slightly full over the thighs and perfectly close fitting around the knees.
The Stockings are of black silk, and as this material is more or less transparent, a pair of black Lisle thread stockings are worn under them.
The Shoes worn with this outfit are the standard form of black dancing pumps. No buckles are permissible.
THE UNDRESS HUNT BALL COSTUME.
This outfit includes a coat and vest cut and made up exactly the same as described for the full dress style.
In place of the breeches and silk stockings a pair of ordinary dress trousers are substituted. This in the latest style is cut upon slightly “ peg-top ” lines being easy fitting over the thighs, from whence the garments taper downward to narrow bottoms. In most cases the wearers of these garments now insist upon a double row of silk braid which covers the side seams. Side pockets and a “ fob ” pocket are inserted.
The material is the standard make of black dress elastic. All the inside fittings in a smartly got up garment of this description should be of silk.
In making up it is important that at least the leg seam of these trousers should be carefully sewn by hand. In the materials used the sewing-machine invariably stretches the seams at the angles from fork to knee, with the inevitable result that a puckered appearance is imparted that completely destroys the graceful hang of legs so desirable in dress trousers of all descriptions. The hollow of the fork, or under sides, should be well stretched out, and any contraction at the crutch lining must be very carefully guarded against.

[Noble Savage]