Vol. I No. IV (July 05') Summer / Resort guide AA / Esky

[Mark Seitelman]

Fabulous.

[S.Maran]

I wish to add my sincere thanks for one of the most interesting posts on this or any other forum. I am sure eneryone would agree that we appreciiate the time and effort that must go into such a professionally pesentation.

[majestatis626]

Splendid job, Etutee. I found the formality of the double-breasted dinner jacket particularly interesting. My interpretation, however, was that the jacket was "less formal" than a formal tailcoat--not necessarily relative to its single-breasted counterpart. Though I never considered the formality of the respective dinner jacket models, I must admit that it makes a good deal of sense. Bravo indeed for your efforts.

[T4phage]

Nice post Etutee, an great primer on elegant summer dressing, the drawings should provide inspiration.

nb, where you said: "On shoes, carefully note the elongating chisel toe effect." regarding the spectators, I would say that the elongating effect is not due to the chisel toe, but more to the illusion created by the smaller apron in a lighter colour. If you see the real shoe (the Italians like making shoes with smaller aprons) you will see how much more elongating it looks compared to a shoe with a longer apron.

[Lookingtoimprove]

Etutee,

Thank you very much for this post, not to mention your others.

Mark.

[Guest]

I personally feel that the greatest elegance clallenge of all, sort of a Holy Grail for me, is to look elegant in hot weather and while travelling. It eludes me.

[Etutee]

I would say that the elongating effect is not due to the chisel toe, but more to the illusion created by the smaller apron in a lighter colour. If you see the real shoe (the Italians like making shoes with smaller aprons) you will see how much more elongating it looks compared to a shoe with a longer apron.

Dear T4phage,
Thank you for your observation. Certainly it seems reasonable. I have modified the original text. I wish there were RTW shoes available here in US (small city) like that but sadly there aren't.

It is very interesting to note that their Editors were extremely reluctant to mention any names of actual cobblers. Often they would point the square / chisel toe of the shoes and then say "specialty of a famous Bond street shoe/boot maker" or "specialty of a famous cork street boot-maker". Rarely, I have spotted direct references. However…Peal, Lobb, Tuczek & Maxwell were among those mentioned.

Sincerely
etutee

[Will]

Thank you for the always useful information Etuttee.

[ozstephen]

All:

The pictures and dialogue are the best! Thanks to everyone for contributing.

I wish others who have access to the content would publish additional images from Apparel Arts Magazine. I believe there are many lessons to be learned.

Regards to all,

ozstephen

[alden]

Etutee, a splendid post indeed.

There are a few comments that come to mind.

Color: The display of colors in the illustrations shows how they can be used in Summer dressing. The peach/tan gabardine jacket, maroon blazer, blue and white robe etc are good examples. Many men just tend to wear too many dark blue and dark gray garments in a season intended for more expressive color. Navy blazers are excellent on a boat or by the seaside, if not, they might well be left at home in the closet.

Cloth: The use of flannels and tweeds in resort wear was common in the 1930s and these fabrics can be used today if they are of an appropriate weight and are tailored properly.

Cut: The cut of the clothes is ample, full and very elegant. One look at the trousers displayed makes one imagine how comfortable they must have been to wear. Today, in a time when comfort is a primary concern for men, the models displayed in your post seem terribly modern.

Culture: You correctly warn the reader against the temptation to copy the 1930s style verbatim for the justifiable reason that it may not correspond to the modern reality. There is a fine line between dressing that will appear to be period costume and dressing inspired by the heritage of one of the great moments in the history of masculine elegance. Dressing in costumes is a notable example of adornment and affectation, contrary states the two of them to true elegance. That being said, there is a good deal of excellent material in the illustrations that can be applied in the way one dresses today.

One question: is the DJ actually a 6 x2 or 4 x 2? Its not too clear from the picture.

[Etutee]

There is a fine line between dressing that will appear to be period costume and dressing inspired by the heritage of one of the great moments in the history of masculine elegance. Dressing in costumes is a notable example of adornment and affectation, contrary states the two of them to true elegance. That being said, there is a good deal of excellent material in the illustrations that can be applied in the way one dresses today.

Well said Mr. Alden! Certainly true and most useful to remember.

One question: is the DJ actually a 6 x2 or 4 x 2? Its not too clear from the picture.

The dinner jacket is 6x2 worn with both buttons fastened.

sincerely
etutee

[andreyb]

Dear Etutee,

I can only subscribe to other members' words -- wonderful, as always!

If you don't mind, a couple of questions:

1.) Among other things, suggestion of a recommended wardrobe for a short cruise enlists "a couple of sports shirts in lisle, cotton or wool". What do they mean by a "sport shirt"? Polo shirt? Or just ordinary shirt made from knitted (as opposed from weaved) cloth?

2.) On everyone's favourite topic -- trousers length. It seems that all trousers from b/w pictures have definite (although not very big) break. On the other hand, all but one pair of trousers from coloured pictures have no break et all. Or do them? I'm not sure of trousers on a gentlemen in maroon blazer (because of his posture), of trousers on a gentlemen in a striped shirt (because he bent his legs) and of trousers on a gentlemen on a bicycle (because the caption reads that the cuffs on his trousers are made just by folding -- so, probably in unfolded state his trousers are somewhat longer). Gents, what do you think on this?

3.) The text has many suggestions on trousers' colours, but not so much on type of cloth. Linen? Linen / cotton mix? Fresco?

I'm toying with the idea of ordering a pair of odd trousers for the next summer (and, hopefully, many other summers) made from fresco cloth. But so far I haven't heard a suggestion to make odd trousers from fresco... Many people recommended to make a suit or an odd jacket, but no one ever suggested odd trousers.

Andrey

[RWS]

. . . . 2.) On everyone's favourite topic -- trousers length. . . . Gents, what do you think . . . ? . . . .

I much prefer that my trousers just touch my shoes, regardless of whether those trousers are for formal, informal, or casual wear. But I am so concerned about shrinkage of the cloth that I tend to have trousers cut with a slight break, for I'd rather wear this longer length than "highwater pants" (trousers that rise high above the shoe, showing the ankle bone).

[rip]

This was a lovely thread... compare those illustrations with the following picture of John Wayne in summer beach attire, also posted on the movie thread:


photo by Phil Stern

[pemazel]

Etutee,

Thank you very much for this post, not to mention your others.

Mark.

I happily join this Dutch comment!

Paul