Japanese "Last" magazine

[bengal-stripe]

Just got my copies of “Last” magazine (vols. 3-5) that I had ordered from my friendly Japanese neighbourhood bookstore:
http://www.esquire.co.jp/last/

Highly recommended. (Nice picture, Tony)

They also feature shoe collectors not only in Japan, but also Italy, France, UK etc. showing off their treasures. Vol. 6 is due to come out in late August/ early September: “Last goes to USA”.

Will there be a feature on John Cusey, surrounded by his loot?

[RWS]

Whom else!

Just exactly what is a "shoe collector"? I enjoy having shoes from various makers, in a variety of leathers on a variety of lasts; I confess that I have more shoes than I need and that a growing number were made specifically for me. But I commission and buy shoes that I expect to worn, not keep in a pristine state. And I don't consider myself a shoe collector -- what is?

[mpolanthan]

Most of the shoe-collectors in these magazines display shoes that are clearly worn and that are also in excellent condition--through loving and expert care no doubt.

Last Volume 4., pg 21 has a gorgeous well-worn boot whose maker I can't figure out (could be a Japanese company). Not the most elegant model but beautiful none the less.

Yes, John Cusey will probably make the cover of Vol. 6.

[jcusey]

.
Yes, John Cusey will probably make the cover of Vol. 6.

People who live in glass houses, Murali. People who live in glass houses...

The same goes for you, Rolf.

[bengal-stripe]

Last Volume 4., pg 21 has a gorgeous well-worn boot whose maker I can't figure out (could be a Japanese company). Not the most elegant model but beautiful none the less.

I would guess the boots are vintage John Lobb (St. James). (Look at the ring in the 3-piece shoetrees.) They are probably fifty (or more) years old and were not made for their current owner.

http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/catalogue/ ... s/Navvycut

Whenever I come across a once fine pair of bespoke shoes in a thrift shop, they are always in an abominable state. Why can’t I find anything like that? (Preferably for next to nothing.) - Rolf

[bengal-stripe]

Sorry, messed up the link.
Look at cap6inchhigh_navycutboot

[Tony]

Hi Rolf


Nice picture? I never get to see any of these pictures, what issue is it in?

Tony

[bengal-stripe]

Hi, Tony

LAST vol 3 (pages 99-111) has a factory visit at Edward Green’s (old premises). Page 106/107 features your bespoke section and has a picture of you, grinning like the cat that got the cream.

That feature also includes four pages of shoe porn. Never seen a “Twickenham II” or a “Churchill” before. (Still trying to work out the difference between a “Churchill” and a “Berkeley”. Aren’t they both “Chelseas” with a row of brouging along the toecap?) How do you get all these names?

It’s like Ikea, they feature the same names like “Vestby”, “Seim” and “Förhöja” internationally and have a whole department to work out whether a particular name is suitable (or means something rude) in any given language.

Rolf

[mpolanthan]

How do you get all these names?

English shoe catalogues remind me of of a series of childrens books called the Wombles. All the characters' names are based on geographic locations. Great Uncle Bulgaria, Orinoco, Tomsk, and Omsk are some that I remember.

Regarding the EG factory pics in Last Vol. 3, I'm curious about the picture on pg 103 bottom right corner. Could it be the complete set of styles that Edward Green can manufacture, or is it simply the reference of indivdual shoe numbers or batch numbers? Either way it'd be fun to take a peek.

[jcusey]

That feature also includes four pages of shoe porn. Never seen a “Twickenham II” or a “Churchill” before. (Still trying to work out the difference between a “Churchill” and a “Berkeley”. Aren’t they both “Chelseas” with a row of brouging along the toecap?) How do you get all these names?

If I remember correctly, Churchill was in the most recent catalogue but two (green cover and oblong) in the "Top Drawer" section. I honestly can't see any difference between Churchill and Berkeley -- maybe brogueing of slightly different sizes?

[bengal-stripe]

If I remember correctly, Churchill was in the most recent catalogue but two (green cover and oblong) in the "Top Drawer" section.

Never seen that catalogue - I was a shoe-virgin back then.

[Tony]

Chuchill was designed originally for the top draw range of shoes that were made on the 22 last, although it looks the same churchhill has a sleeker cut and is slightly more elegant than the Berkley.

Tony

[jcusey]

If I remember correctly, Churchill was in the most recent catalogue but two (green cover and oblong) in the "Top Drawer" section.

Never seen that catalogue - I was a shoe-virgin back then.

As was I. Fortunately, I found a retailer a couple of years ago who had some extras.

[jcusey]

Chuchill was designed originally for the top draw range of shoes that were made on the 22 last, although it looks the same churchhill has a sleeker cut and is slightly more elegant than the Berkley.

Tony:

A couple of pesky questions:

First, could you summarize the characteristics of the 22 last? Secondly, what are the differences between the patterns of the Churchill and the Berkley that make the Churchill more elegant? I'm trying not to be daft, but I can't see the difference.

Thanks.

John

[manton]

I have a pair of shoes on the 22. I would characterize it as a narrowish last with a sharp chisel -- sharper than the 606. It's very much a "town last", as the editors of Apparel Arts would say.