silk vs bemberg

[Guest]

Recently I have had all my new suits lined with silk. When ready-made suits are using bemberg I think a SR tailor or any good tailor for that matter should consider using something more special than something a ready-made suit allready provides. I mean come on, you are paying triple the price.

[Guest]

Spoke tonight with Jay Greenfield of Martin Greenfield Clothiers.

Unless specifically ordered, silk is not used over bemberg because:

1. silk is too hot and doesn't breath as well as bemberg;

2. bemberg drapes better; and

3. bemberg is more durable.

I have often heard these explanations. So often, that I can't recall the original source. It could be myth or just received but untested wisdom. But no tailor has ever suggested a silk lining to me, making me think it is really just something you can have if you like, but not recommended on the merits. I doubt price is really the issue, as tailors are happy to show you much more expensive cloths and charge you extra for them.

I do however, recall Dege commissioning some special silks and offering to line a suit with them as a free promotional item if you ordered a suit on one of their visits. I was at the fitting, not ordering, stage of the cycle and didn't bother to look at them or discuss it, so I can't say what their view really is of silk as a lining material.

Having used both, I can tell you that silk does not strike me as hotter than Bemberg. I even have silk put into my half lined summer coats. I have never noticed a problem with its drape, but I am not sure I am qualified to notice something like that.

I think that one of the issues is that silk is probably a bit harder to work with, but I am not sure about that. Certainly it is a better feeling lining when you have the shirt on. Since I do not pay extra for it, it is the standard lining at Rubinacci, I would never think of going back to Bemberg.

Matt

[Guest]

In warm dry climates silk will cause more problems with static electricity. I find that silk does not slide on a shirt as well as bemberg. My latest commission will have a lining of a rather bright Alumo shirting cotton, at the instigation of my tailor.

aus_md

[Guest]

I recently discussed silk lining with Malcolm Plews of Welsh & Jefferies on SR and he told me that he didn't think a silk lining would last a year of regular wear. He said that he'd once made himself a suit with a silk lining and that it was in tatters after a year and that he re-lined it in regular lining (Bemberg I assume) after that.

[Guest]

My latest commission will have a lining of a rather bright Alumo shirting cotton, at the instigation of my tailor.

aus_md

I hope you won't regret it as I did when I chose a very smooth and silky cotton to line a linen suit. The coat wouldn't slide on my shirts and I had to re-line it completely in Bemberg.

C

[Guest]

[Silk]is the standard lining at Rubinacci, I would never think of going back to Bemberg.

Matt

I recently discussed silk lining with Malcolm Plews of Welsh & Jefferies on SR and he told me that he didn't think a silk lining would last a year of regular wear. He said that he'd once made himself a suit with a silk lining and that it was in tatters after a year and that he re-lined it in regular lining (Bemberg I assume) after that.

Well there you have the definitive answer. Minds (I won't vouch for reasonableness) disagree.

I will henceforth have the right half of all of my winter suits lined in silk and the left half in bemberg, reversing the pattern for the summer.

dopey

[Concordia]

I was going to start a new thread, but why waste all of the above wisdom?

While sitting in the air conditioning, I was re-thinking this issue, mostly in context of some tweeds for this winter. Liberty of London has some nice-looking scarves that could make stunning complements.

One of their nicest patterns happens to be a wool/silk blend. Has anyone thought to try that fabric with a suitably nasty tweed? Any other surprising successes or failures to record in this general department?

[davidhuh]

One of their nicest patterns happens to be a wool/silk blend. Has anyone thought to try that fabric with a suitably nasty tweed? Any other surprising successes or failures to record in this general department?

Dear Concordia,

I would use it, except for the sleeves. Most silk/wool blends would help you sliding in your coat.

Cheers, David