Bespoke shirts - advice needed

[RWS]

. . . . Would definitely also recommend against linen trial shirts. Unstable little thing, you won't get a good fit if you base the fitting on a linen trial shirt. . . .

Forgive my pumping you for information, Udeshi, but my ignorance compels me.

I like linen, and I often commission linen shirts. One of my shirtmakers did not adapt well to the change from the usual cotton.

Would it be best for two different patterns to be made for a customer who has some shirts made of linen and others, of cotton? Or should prewashing bring both cotton and linen to comparable stability before cutting begins?

[udeshi]

Linen - funny creature. Spend the extra on good linen. Bad linen is just not worth the trouble. Wash linen once, then wash it again, then wash it again. Never ever tumble dry.
Line dry and iron it the way you would normally iron your shirt.

This reduces some of your problems, but you will at a later stage have expansion or shrinkage in the fabric. If a fabric behaved uniformly over its life, then yes you could adjust the pattern to accommodate this, but as linen has a mind of its own, this doesn't work, so assume it will fit slightly differently.

Tumble drying can cause the shirt to shrink up to two sizes, plus the heat is not good for the yarn, imagine sun burning yourself really badly, your skin won't be happy.

[RWS]

Thanks, Udeshi, for your reply. A bit disappointing to learn that linen can't be depended upon to retain its shape, no matter what measures might be taken; but not all problems are susceptible of a happy resolution.

[udeshi]

cotton linen is marginally better, and I actually find it more comfortable to wear.

[MaestroUK]

I am new to this site so apologise if i am repeating anythiing but as a fan of Pogson & Davis i cna recommend their shirts.

Also worth checking out Goldings of St Albans (got a royal warrant too).

[wbpitts]

I can 100% recommend Sean O'Flynn. I formerly worked out of Fallan & Harvey with whom he shares a premisis and have spent many days working next to Sean and seeing his MANY happy customers.

He also makes my shirts. His prices are reasonable, one can't ask for better craftsmanship, and his service is top notch.

He makes for several of the larger firms in the area but you'll get more for your money going straight to him at 7 Sackville Street.

I'm back in the states now and haven't seen him in awhile. So if any of you drop in to see him (which you should), tell him Will says hi!

Regards,

WBP

[Jack_Rabbit]

I can only reiterate the previous comments about Sean. I've only recently commissioned a number of shirts from him, but if the quality and workmanship of my first shirt are anything to go by he will be difficult to beat.

[El Aristocrata]

I have never gone for bespoke shirts but i normally buy from Hilditch&Key on its webpage (I live in Spain) and their shirts are quite nice and the final result is more than acceptable. If you want to save some money then go for Hawes. Its work is no that good but its full cutaway is marvellous.