Flying Collars

[Guest]

I am now mesmerized by observng the behavior of coat collars, particularly watching our politicians on television.

Some stick lke glue, others flying away at the slightest gesture.

Sitting, standing, gesticulating.....I assume that we want our collars to remain hugging the neck.

How does a tailor achieve this? And what would a tailor need to adjust if we discovered our coat collars standing away?

And should we be assessing our coats' fit through a variety of postures and motions, not just standing statically in front of the mirror , before we walk out of the tailor's shop with our new purchase?

[Guest]

Sir,

You are looking in the right place. One can judge the fit of a suit in large part by the behavior of the collar.

If the collar separates from the back of the neck, it means the fit is off. Normally speaking the balance is awry. Back balance can be the culprit. Or it might be a coat that is too straight.

It can also be that the "back neck measure" is too long.

Judge the bespoke coat from the back and not the front; you will begin to understand and recognize a good fit.

M Alden

[Guest]

Very linteresting.

So the sign of a good fitting coat starts at the neck and is best observed from the back view.

[Guest]

Some men, in an attempt to appear more "masculine", choose a coat with broad shoulders. This usually comes along with the coat being too wide in general and having deep armholes.
So where the coat should sit close to the body it doesn't. This can best be seen around the neck. Especially the arms will have to "work" against the coat, which will then move more than necessary, creating the effect of a collar up to the ears.
A RTW coat is cut following standardized measurements and to "fit" many men with different figures. If one's body is not within such standards(and it usually isn't) the coat doesn't fit well.
A good fitting coat, from RTW to real bespoke, will follow the shape of the body, not too loose, not too tight. A real bespoke tailor will care for the posture, this is where the balance comes in(front and back have to be in correct proportion according to one's posture, i.e. an erect figure will need more length in the front and less in the back and other way round with a stooping figure).
Watching the back during fitting sessions is one way to determine the fit, as it will display certain defects in balance and/or workmanship(if the back is too short bell shaped folds will appear at the side seams and the collar will stand away from the neck; if the back is too long a crease will appear under the rear collar).
But please have a look at the front, too.
Is the hem in place or is it slightly raised? Then the front needs more length(erect figure and/or belly, strong chest). Do the lapels stand off(strong chest, coat too tight over the chest, arms in more backwards position, collar most likely to stand away from neck)?
Any creases under the armhole(front dart too deep, belly too big, front part not wide enough)?
Best way to test your new coat will be to move arms when sleeves are in. If the coat moves a lot when you do, the fit is not right.


Hope I could help,


SG

[Guest]

. . . . Hope I could help,
SG

Though I was not the original poster, you've certainly helped me, Schneider Gott. Yours are among the most illuminating and interesting posts in a very illuminating and interesting forum.

I'm grateful that you're a fellow Lounger.

RWS