hand versus machine
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Guest
Dear LLers which parts of the suit (trouser and jacket) are hand sewed? All of it? is that possible? Doesn't a machine have the advantage of making a garment stronger?
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Guest
Hello!
Well, basically, every seam or stitching on a garment can be done either by machine (and)or by hand. They had to do all the sewing by hand before there were machines. But in those days labor costs were low and there were many craftsmen around!
The machine works faster and more accurate and is used even by real bespoke tailors for all the major seams of a garment. Most stitching, like padding of the lapels, is done by hand, because a tailor can adjust the stitches better by hand than a machine and create a better roll of the lapel(if well done I don't see any difference in the result, but that is my personal view)!
I, personally, don't like to waste my time with hand stitching, that can not be seen from the outside and if it has no negative effects on quality and durability, I use my machines. A well adjusted machine stitch is better than a poor hand stitch. And of course the other way round. The use or not use of hand/ machine is a matter of the personal philosophy of each tailor.
Some tailors, like Martin Stall( check out his site. You can see all the hand stitching:
http://www.martinstall.com/index.php?op ... d=88888910)
do most sewing by hand(like many others, of course). But, as always, hand work has it's price and that's why today most garments are mostly machine made, which is not as bad as it seems, as long as it is not sold as hand work.
Here is a list of stitching/ sewing done with machine:
Any main seam on a coat or trouser( shoulders, rear and side seams, seams of the sleeves, same with the lining. All the long seams of the trousers and the waistband)
Hand sewing: Connecting the different pieces of the canvas, padding of the lapels. Fastening/ securing the pockets, attaching the collar, buttonholes and stitching of the edges. Some do sew in the sleeves by hand, at least the part under the armpit, because it gives more flexibility. Felling the lining at the hems of coat and sleeves.
Seams and stitching that can be done either way:
Connecting/ applying the pieces of the canvas, padding of the lapels, sewing in the sleeves. The lining can be sewn in completely with a machine, but that is more RTW or MTM style.
An absolute No No on a real bespoke garment are machined buttonholes and AMF edges.
If you want to see the hand stitching on trousers search for the Ambrosi threads here on the LL.
Hope I could help!
Still I will be grateful if any of the good tailors at the LL would add further information or explain their view on hand/ machine work.
SG
Well, basically, every seam or stitching on a garment can be done either by machine (and)or by hand. They had to do all the sewing by hand before there were machines. But in those days labor costs were low and there were many craftsmen around!
The machine works faster and more accurate and is used even by real bespoke tailors for all the major seams of a garment. Most stitching, like padding of the lapels, is done by hand, because a tailor can adjust the stitches better by hand than a machine and create a better roll of the lapel(if well done I don't see any difference in the result, but that is my personal view)!
I, personally, don't like to waste my time with hand stitching, that can not be seen from the outside and if it has no negative effects on quality and durability, I use my machines. A well adjusted machine stitch is better than a poor hand stitch. And of course the other way round. The use or not use of hand/ machine is a matter of the personal philosophy of each tailor.
Some tailors, like Martin Stall( check out his site. You can see all the hand stitching:
http://www.martinstall.com/index.php?op ... d=88888910)
do most sewing by hand(like many others, of course). But, as always, hand work has it's price and that's why today most garments are mostly machine made, which is not as bad as it seems, as long as it is not sold as hand work.
Here is a list of stitching/ sewing done with machine:
Any main seam on a coat or trouser( shoulders, rear and side seams, seams of the sleeves, same with the lining. All the long seams of the trousers and the waistband)
Hand sewing: Connecting the different pieces of the canvas, padding of the lapels. Fastening/ securing the pockets, attaching the collar, buttonholes and stitching of the edges. Some do sew in the sleeves by hand, at least the part under the armpit, because it gives more flexibility. Felling the lining at the hems of coat and sleeves.
Seams and stitching that can be done either way:
Connecting/ applying the pieces of the canvas, padding of the lapels, sewing in the sleeves. The lining can be sewn in completely with a machine, but that is more RTW or MTM style.
An absolute No No on a real bespoke garment are machined buttonholes and AMF edges.
If you want to see the hand stitching on trousers search for the Ambrosi threads here on the LL.
Hope I could help!
Still I will be grateful if any of the good tailors at the LL would add further information or explain their view on hand/ machine work.
SG
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Guest
Basically, any seam can be done by hand or by machine. SG has got it summed up pretty nicely. The difference between hand vs machine, is partly esthetic, partly comfort.
Visible seams or stitches, including buttonholes, look less regular. This gives the garment a look of uniqueness and individuality. Even when it takes a very close look to notice the difference, the overall appearance of the piece will be different.
A handsewn seam will be more flexible and will adjust itself to the body much better over time ( say, the first five months or so, depending on how much wear the piece gets.)
Thus, the appearance of a coat or of trousers will be influenced by that, it will mold itself to you much better.
This helps towards comfort a great deal. Also, the fact that handmade seams are more flexible is in itself a great benefit to the comfort of a garment. It's just a lot softer wearing.
Whether or not someone thinks it is worth it to pay an x amount extra for something handmade, has to do with the above: the comfort and the appearance, but one has to care about for it to be an expense that you can justify. Some people don't feel or see the difference, so for them to pay extra for handwork doesn't make a lot of sense. Handwork isn't necessarily better in an objective way, because the owner subjectively decides if it's worth it or not. If it is to him, then handwork is much better.
Finally, some people simply like handwork, even if they don't see the other reasons a prime importance. They may feel that the extra care and attention is worth it, or really like objects, whether a suit or a bag or a chair, that are handmade, simply for the uniqueness of it.
Personally, I like doing handwork. I feel it's easier to create something beautiful when I'm actually feeling the cloth in my hands. But I emphasize, it's a personal thing. And the preference of a commissioner is equally important, or even more so perhaps.
Visible seams or stitches, including buttonholes, look less regular. This gives the garment a look of uniqueness and individuality. Even when it takes a very close look to notice the difference, the overall appearance of the piece will be different.
A handsewn seam will be more flexible and will adjust itself to the body much better over time ( say, the first five months or so, depending on how much wear the piece gets.)
Thus, the appearance of a coat or of trousers will be influenced by that, it will mold itself to you much better.
This helps towards comfort a great deal. Also, the fact that handmade seams are more flexible is in itself a great benefit to the comfort of a garment. It's just a lot softer wearing.
Whether or not someone thinks it is worth it to pay an x amount extra for something handmade, has to do with the above: the comfort and the appearance, but one has to care about for it to be an expense that you can justify. Some people don't feel or see the difference, so for them to pay extra for handwork doesn't make a lot of sense. Handwork isn't necessarily better in an objective way, because the owner subjectively decides if it's worth it or not. If it is to him, then handwork is much better.
Finally, some people simply like handwork, even if they don't see the other reasons a prime importance. They may feel that the extra care and attention is worth it, or really like objects, whether a suit or a bag or a chair, that are handmade, simply for the uniqueness of it.
Personally, I like doing handwork. I feel it's easier to create something beautiful when I'm actually feeling the cloth in my hands. But I emphasize, it's a personal thing. And the preference of a commissioner is equally important, or even more so perhaps.
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