Classic Styles

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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Gruto

Mon Oct 22, 2007 9:57 pm

I like Manton's The Suit but I've never been satisfied with the chapter on dandification and formality. It lacks something.

I have tried to solve the puzzle with out reaching a satisfiyng result. Maybe you can elaborate or correct on this scheme:

Image

As you can see, it gives four styles within "slow fashion", classic style:

Conventional Classic
Conventional Classic Casual
Dandified Classic Casual
Dandified Classic

I am aware that for instance blazer + flannels can be dandified by stressing cut, color etc. This scheme is just a typification.
HappyStroller
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Wed Oct 24, 2007 12:39 am

Wonderful way to illustrate the dandification-formality relationship, if I may say, Grotto. Very helpful in clarifying Manton's idea, Sir.

But perhaps in relationship to blazer+grey flannels, the tweed jacket+corduroy lies to the left of the former along the formaility continuum?
Gruto

Wed Oct 24, 2007 5:54 pm

HappyStroller wrote:perhaps in relationship to blazer+grey flannels, the tweed jacket+corduroy lies to the left of the former along the formaility continuum?[/color]
Hmmm, I am not sure: is a blazer more formal than a tweed jacket? It is more conventional, that is: less excentric, but still I find it informal compared to a suit. Here is an updated version:

Image
Last edited by Gruto on Thu Oct 25, 2007 9:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
MTM
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Wed Oct 24, 2007 8:17 pm

I agree that a blazer is a bit more formal than a tweed coat. Grey flannels are more formal than corduroys too, I believe. Part of being a dandy is breaking the rules creatively though, no?

My attempt to fill in the blanks in the upper-right hand corner of your original scheme would be:

DB suit + patterned shirt + patterned tie + antiqued brown shoes + pocket square + flower + fancy umbrella + hat + gloves + + + + + One key to being a dandy is the accessorization to excess!

I like your new pairing of "eccentric" with conventional. But there might be something better even. Standard and advanced? I'm not sure. Dandy and eccentric are a bit pejorative though.
Gruto

Thu Oct 25, 2007 6:04 pm

MTM wrote:Part of being a dandy is breaking the rules creatively though, no?
Or to follow the rules like knowbody else. Wasn't that what Brummell did: perfecting rather than inventing?
I like your new pairing of "eccentric" with conventional. But there might be something better even. Standard and advanced? I'm not sure. Dandy and eccentric are a bit pejorative though.
So that would be:

Standard Classic Leisure
Advanced Classic Leisure
etc. ?

I'll try to find something to illustrate the scheme ...
Costi
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Thu Nov 01, 2007 5:12 pm

Suggestion: to better illustrate the varying degrees you could try placing your categories at opposing poles of a circle thus creating 4 quadrants. Placing the specific combinations in various positions inside these quadrants could illustrate the more subtle differences between them.
Luca
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Fri Nov 30, 2007 6:07 pm

First of all, greetings from a new forum participant.

Gruto writes: “Hmmm, I am not sure: is a blazer more formal than a tweed jacket?”

Ca va sans dire! A proper blazer with metal buttons and navy blue plain fabric (worsted, say) is certainly more formal than even the most austere but still, typically, “organic-colored” and “textured “ tweed jacket. I would go as far as to say that a blazer (worn with semi-formal trousers) is as formal as most tweed suits.

MTM writes: “Part of being a dandy is breaking the rules creatively though, no?”

Gruto answers: “Or to follow the rules like nobody else. Wasn't that what Brummell did: perfecting rather than inventing?”

I think a dandy is simply a man with an exquisite, cultivated sense of clothing and quality but perhaps (to average men) excessive or at least noteworthy interest in the clothes he wears. I think by definition almost anyone posting regularly on this site is a bit of a dandy. Naturally, I do not mean it pejoratively. A dandy is not synonymous with a fop.

Of course, someone in control of a medium can afford the occasional, well-considered flourish. The odd broken ‘rule’. But a dandy is not a peacock.

Beau Brummell was famously fastidious about quality )of cut, drape, etc.) and, to our eyes, would have appeared quite conservative. I.e., he helped popularize a much less flamboyant costume for men,, much darker sober floors people nowdays seem to think he wore frilly floral stuff. Not at all. A modern equivalent of BB might be, say, Ralph Lauren (I mean the designer, not the RTW clothes they sell). in terms of a very constructed, internally consistent, even ‘hermetic’ aesthetic.
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