Looking Before I Leap: Questions for "My" Tailor

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

ccox
Posts: 111
Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 2:09 pm
Location: Richmond, Virginia, USA
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Thu Oct 18, 2007 5:43 pm

Gentlemen,

I'm faced with making decisions about the vest for my dinner suit. Since the vest is a "hold-over" from white tie, should I stick with white piqué as I would for a tailcoat? Or should it be made from the same fabric as my dinner jacket and trousers? If so, should it be the shawl collar, SB, 3 button version? Would the lapels be grosgrain here or not? (My suit will be a peaked lapel faced in grosgrain, SB, one-button.)

I'm looking to make this set of clothes last for a good 20 yrs., so I'd prefer to do the traditional thing. Although my lapels will be 4" since I'm trying to look a little lean and long.

Thank you in advance for any replies.

CCox
Concordia
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Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:07 pm

You can always get piqué (or some sort of fancy silk) later on.

For now, get one made from the jacket/trs fabric, with the same grosgrain lapels. Low cut, 3-button. With peak lapel jackets, I like vest lapels that are sort of squared off on the bottom, as with white tie.
ccox
Posts: 111
Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 2:09 pm
Location: Richmond, Virginia, USA
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Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:18 pm

Concordia wrote:You can always get piqué (or some sort of fancy silk) later on.

For now, get one made from the jacket/trs fabric, with the same grosgrain lapels. Low cut, 3-button. With peak lapel jackets, I like vest lapels that are sort of squared off on the bottom, as with white tie.
Thank you Concordia. It will look wonderful.

A last question: if I put on two pockets, would you recommend welt to match the breast pocket of the jacket or jetted to match the hip pockets of the jacket? I would think welt.
Concordia
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Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:20 pm

I think welt is standard, but I never thought much about it. I don't remember seeing jetted before.
ccox
Posts: 111
Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 2:09 pm
Location: Richmond, Virginia, USA
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Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:41 pm

I have welt pockets on a white formal vest from the late 20s that look fine. Think I'll go with that. Thanks again.
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