Am I really a bespoke artisan?

[Algernon]

Mr. Giani:

The coat which you made for me doesn't fit as I'd like. What can be done? Similarly, the lapel shape is unsatisfactory; can this be altered?

PS.
Thank you, Mr. Alden, for an informative & entertaining thread.

[andreyb]

Mr Giani,

Honestly, your true identity is difficult to reveal, but let me try...

1.) Do you accept customers' own cloth? [Actually, I don't own even a scrap of it, and don't plan to provide it, but the answer can speak volumes...]

2.) May I look at your cutting room? I believe it should be in the same building as your expensive-looking shop...

Andrey

[Arty Giani]

Are the garments you sell fully hand stitched? Is there full craftsmanship in your production?

Our craftsmen use the tools necessary to deliver a first rate handmade bespoke garment.

Can you produce for me a garment, let say a jacket, which shares nothing with any other garment you have ever created?

Since every customer and every taste is different we do not produce garments that resemble one another. They are made especially for our customers.

If I ask you to make for me a double-breasted 6x2 frock coat in Barathea 14 Oz weave from H Lesser, lengthed just to the bottom of the knee, with minimum shoulder padding, medium-width separately-cut lapels with grosgrain facings, small armholes, low waist seam, no outer pockets, could you do it with out it looking like a theatre or film costume but being completely adequate for any occasion it would be required back then, say, a day meeting for the treaty of Versailles?

Yes.

From your comments regarding monarchs and aristocrats, I suppose they are your common clients. And you make special garments for them which are sometimes unique, as it could be any costume of any asian or african monarch/leader. Those garments might satisfy points 1 and 2, but that doesn't make you bespoke: it makes you a 'custom' tailor, who produces garments to request. Custom is not the same as bespoke.

We tend to think that if one makes a garment to the specifications of the customer and with his full satisfaction, one has delivered an admirable bespoke product.

[Arty Giani]

Arturo, a serious question based on your original post: When a customer sees you, do you attempt to foist on him the super 300s Loro Piana baby pashtunguanomina, or do you show him sober and substantial books from Lesser?

Caro Rjissimo

I prefer to foist, hmm drape my own selected cloth on my clients. I do not carry or use super 300s Loro Piana baby pashtunguanomina. I prefer my own super 300s baby cashhtunguanomina.

Arty Giani
"Bespoke makers to exotic animal trainers"

[Arty Giani]

The coat which you made for me doesn't fit as I'd like. What can be done? Similarly, the lapel shape is unsatisfactory; can this be altered?

The easiest thing to do at this stage is to order another coat and we will keep your comments in mind on the next garment.

Arty Giani

[Arty Giani]

Do you accept customers' own cloth?

We do not use customer's cloth for two reasons: we do not know if it is of suitable quality and if we need more cloth, we will have no access to same.

May I look at your cutting room? I believe it should be in the same building as your expensive-looking shop...

What with the price of rents in this area, our atelier is in another location. We normally do not have visitors to this location. Everything you need to see is here after all. I would be happy to show you pictures of our talented craftsmen at work however.

Arty Giani
"Bespoke purveyor to estate agents"

[schneidergott]

Egregio Signor Giani!

I recently was elected the new leader of our little family enterprise(shortly after our former CEO's car was hit by some TNT, left lying around carelessly by some road construction worker), and I am in need of new suits.

Being still in deep mourning for the loss of our padrone, I am not in the state to leave Sicily.

I would also like to meet the man who will personally cut my suits! And please bring large samples of the finest cloths!
If you are willing to visit me down here, I'm going to make you an offer you cannot refuse!

SG

[kolecho]

Arty,

Do you alter stock patterns after my measurements are taken, or do you draft my pattern from scratch in your remote workroom?

[culverwood]

Sr Giani

I would like to open an account with your fine business.

My good friend the Sultan of Imshee has recommended you to me. I would like to order a dozen suits for myself in the cashhtunguanomina fabric you made his in but he told me that you had specially made it for him. Surely you could let me have some, I will not tell him.

A fine custom operation like yours must also make bespoke shirts, ties, shoes and undergarments. I am looking for an outfit that will match the leather on the Maybach I have on order, this must be possible.

I look forward to meeting you at the address on your card, 12 Savile Row.

Once I have opened the account I have some funds at a bank in Switzerland that I am hiding from the taxman and if I could transfer it into the account I could let you have a 25 percent share of the $535,000,000 which my father obtained from the state oil company.

Yours
Harry Isunga
Lagos

[sartorius]

Mr Giani

If I was to commission from you my first bespoke suit, can you tell me how many fittings you would recommend, and how my suit would progress at each one?

I am a little nervous because this is my first foray into the world of bespoke tailoring. How much scope will there be to change my mind about the design of my jacket once you have started work on it? For example, if I ask for a single vent, but after the first fitting decide that I want side vents, would you be able to accomodate this?

[le.gentleman]

This is a great thread and I think customers who are new to the idea of bespoke might find it very helpful. Maybe we manage to continue it...

[Arty Giani]

This is a great thread and I think customers who are new to the idea of bespoke might find it very helpful. Maybe we manage to continue it...

Thank you very much Mr. Gentleman

I confess to being a bit ashamed for leaving you all in suspense for two years, but I just finished my last under garmet for the Maharajahs chauffeur, Daisy. Its nice to be back on the Row and away from the jungle palace in India where we moved our cutting and production facilities to dress our benefactors family and friends.

Speaking of delocalization, I visited a closed down factory in Italy the other day. They used to make for some pretty big name artisans like Giorgio Armani, and Dolce Gabbano. They could crank out, hmm, I mean "tailor" a suit for less than 70 euros out the door, but it seems that some artisans in Tunisia and Turkey are able to do the same for 25 euros. That is some kind of sewing talent!

Kolecho, Sartorius and Culverwood, I will get to your questions right away.

Arty Giani

"Bespoke purveyor to Maharajahs"

[Arty Giani]

Do you alter stock patterns after my measurements are taken, or do you draft my pattern from scratch in your remote workroom?

Mr Kolecho

We do all that is necessary to satisfy our customers.

You pattern is drafted from the measurements you have submitted by our expert cutter HAL. He never makes mistakes so you have nothing to worry about in your bespoke voyage with our firm. Your pattern is kept on hard disk to save space and avoid all the clutter of paper. What matters is that your garment will fit your taste with the exact detailing you have specified.

HAL will take care of you.

Arty Giani

“Bespoke purveyor to Bill Gates”

[Arty Giani]

My good friend the Sultan of Imshee has recommended you to me. I would like to order a dozen suits for myself in the cashhtunguanomina fabric you made his in but he told me that you had specially made it for him. Surely you could let me have some, I will not tell him.

Ahhh, the Sultan, what a wonderful client he is. I saw him just the other day as we were finishing his latest cashhtunguanomina coat. I suppose I shouldn’t be telling you this, but the Sultan makes a new coat every week. That goes to show you how wonderfully soft and comfy our cashhtunguanomina really is. One good hard wearing and you will find yourself needing, hmm, “longing” for a new one. It’s the secret blend of cat, and Colorado elk fur that makes all the diff old man!

A fine custom operation like yours must also make bespoke shirts, ties, shoes and undergarments. I am looking for an outfit that will match the leather on the Maybach I have on order, this must be possible.

Sir the days have long since passed that an artisan can live on coats alone, we are able to custom build any garment you require. We dress the sale as well as the client.

I hope you ordered the Indian elephant leather in Rust like the Maha did, it works with the elegant lines of the Maxbach. An aviator coat in the same leather would do so well. Oh and then you will need gloves. Oh and how about an elly leather nicker for the missus?

We are going off the Row now. It is simply THE thing to do these days and number 12 was so dank and small

Arty Giani

“Bespoke purveyor to rich men’s wives”

[Arty Giani]

If I was to commission from you my first bespoke suit, can you tell me how many fittings you would recommend, and how my suit would progress at each one?

Now that is an excellent question indeed and you will be happy to know that once you have paid for our exclusive product we will fit it onto you as many times as you desire. You know some clients come in thrice a day to have their coat fitted on them. So come in as often as you please. Remember, Maestro Artemis Giani, is there for you!

Arty Gianni

"Bespoke purveyor to dummies"