Breaking the rules with style?

[smoothjazzone]

Couple weeks ago I saw Charlie Chaplins Monsieur Verdoux (an amazing film). Mr. Chaplin has a really nice wardrobe for the film including the following:



While the DB notch lapel tuxedos hanging outside rental shops look cheap and just plain wrong, this coat despite a very wide overlap actually looked quite good (Mr. Amies is probably turning in his grave right now). There is a chance that Mr. Chaplin was trying to establish his character's non-conformist streak -- but I believe there is at least some 19th century and early 20th century precedent for such coats.

What does everyone think? Breaking the rules with style? Or its to be avoided like the plague?

[Concordia]

Hearkens back to frock coats, emphasized by the wing collar and bow tie. The center of gravity is quite different on such an ensemble than with the post-POW version, which creates the illusion of waist suppression and length. An older vision of prosperity, perhaps.

[alden]

Smoothjazz,

Excellent thread and handsome picture.

The DB notch was for a long time a French specialty. Especially in the 70s and 80s French television was crowded with them. It was pretty ugly stuff. The picture you have posted is magnificent compared to the suits worn here in this unusual style during that period.

Some men are able to trample every rule and still look very elegant. Others follow the rules in minute detail and look dumpy. Its a very tricky subject indeed. Fundamentally I believe that the man makes the clothes. If he is elegant or has good taste he can do whatever pleases him. If a man is deprived of these gifts, the rules will help temper but will never eliminate the expression of his deficits.

Michael

[couch]

SJ,

As alden says, the proportions and angles of the lapels in relation to the shoulders look good to me, especially in this lighter-colored cloth. The suit seems to be aiming at a kind of streamlined effect with minimal detailing. Note, for example, the apparent lack of lapel buttonholes on either side--the boutonniere is pinned to the front of the lapel (not sure I love this feature). It's always risky to generalize from a single frame that stops motion--here the figure's out-thrust hips may make the coat look less trim than a more balanced pose would (I think we're seeing more of its side/rear draping above the hip pocket than we would in a normal posture). Still, while I like the height of the button stance, I might prefer just a bit less overlap--the button pattern looks slightly wider than square to me, and I think a true square, or slightly vertical rectangle, would be an improvement. But that's a tiny quibble. The basic architecture looks quite sound to me, not least because with such a high button placement, I'll bet such a coat could be made to roll beautifully if buttoned to the bottom button, Kent-style, giving two options for greater and lesser gravitas in application.

- Randall

[couch]

Slight digression: I just noticed that you can see, just to the right of the antiques shop, the bracing holding up the storefront set, with what looks like a parked car right behind it. This shot must have been a very fleeting moment in the film, or somebody goofed!

[BirdofSydney]

I noticed a notch-lapel DB in an episode of Yes Prime Minister the other day, worn by the title character.

I find that the series generally was very careful about their costuming and captured the dress of the public service, of the City and the country, very well indeed.

So I imagine there must have been at least some reception of it in England?