alternative linings for double-breasted tweed coat

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Guest

Thu Aug 23, 2007 11:29 am

I am going to have a double-breasted ulster-type tweed coat made up: the model is the coat displayed in the Esky-University styles post and also yesterday on the A Suitable Wardrobe site. The tweed to be used is 21 oz (supposedly, I have not measured it). I wanted to add a lining for warmth but through no fault of my own, there is no way I can have the ventile lining in time to send the fabric back with my in-laws to Bucharest.

So I wondered, are there other fabrics that add warmth that I could find that would be alternatives to the standard viscose linings? We have a "fabric row" here in Philadelphia, so all that I cannot get would be something exotic like Ventile. ANy suggestions?
dopey
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Thu Aug 23, 2007 12:24 pm

I have a heavy wool overcoat that is probably made of something a bit over 22 oz and has a heavy satin lining. I could not imagine wearing it with any heavier lining, even on the coldest NY days (though I wear a suit under it). Your fabric is not as heavy as mine, but be careful that you don't make this coat too warm to be useful. Philadelphia is not Flint.
Guest

Thu Aug 23, 2007 8:22 pm

I went to Philadelphia's Fabric Row and got two linings: heavy satin and "sunback," a fabric with satin on one side and something rough on the other, and considerably heavier. I am leaning towards the sunack. Both were extremely cheap, 3 and 6 dollars per yard. Any thought?
yachtie
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Fri Aug 24, 2007 3:01 pm

Fine wool twill (shiny side exposed ) makes a nice lining for coats for the coldest days.
I have a melton overcoat that has a twill lining. ( It'd be way too warm for NYC- but it's great in Chicago)
Guest

Sat Aug 25, 2007 2:38 am

Could my "sunback" be the same thing? I guess I would describe it as "twill with a shiny side."
tteplitzmd

Sat Aug 25, 2007 11:29 am

I am having a quilted lining put in my NHT car coat currently under construction. Note the sleeves are not lined with the quilting. I will not be wearing a suit or jacket under it, perhaps a sweater, and i want a very warm coat.

P.S. Ventile's used as an outershell isn't it?
Guest

Sat Aug 25, 2007 12:29 pm

To use ventile as a lining was something I got from this store:

http://www.tweedshop.co.uk/Teviotex_Tweed.html

I agree with you, and to use it as a lining wastes its windproof properties I imagine. Actually, I don't think one can theorize, you just have to do it and see what happens. In any event, because the Ventile people delayed and delayed, there is no way I could have the material on time to give to my in-laws to take back to Romania so I will use this heavy twill material I got on Fabric Row, which was $6/yard and very heavy. I think the Ventile would have been a waste of expensive fabric (not so pricy, but became so due to shipping and wire charges).

I suspect my coat will be quite warm. I hope the winter is cold enough to justify it!
yachtie
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Sun Aug 26, 2007 6:21 am

brescd01 wrote:Could my "sunback" be the same thing? I guess I would describe it as "twill with a shiny side."
If it is what I think, then no. I think what you have is a fused lining ( two layers). What I have is wool twill ( not really satiny) but the reverse is the shown side. I don't think it'd be going for $6/yd. either.
Guest

Sun Aug 26, 2007 12:07 pm

Also, should I have a martingale added or not to my Ulster?
yachtie
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Mon Aug 27, 2007 4:06 pm

brescd01 wrote:Who made your coat?
It's a UK made topcoat from the 1950's ( not made for me). I'm having Chris Despos make a winter coat with a shell from Fox and a wool twill lining from H.E.Box. Hopefully get to it this Fall.
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