Haute Horlogerie watch makers

[pchong]

No. ROO is available in several versions, though the chrono is the most common complication. The Blue Diver is a dive watch, with a helium escape valve.And there was a version with an triple calendar, but now discontinued.

[Cantabrigian]

I was only thinking of their current line. Which one is the Blue Diver - the blue-faced chrono with the helium valve? I had never considered the HE valve to be a complication since it isn't part of the movement but maybe it is generally considered to be one.

[SJX]

I believe that's the blue diver Peter is referring to, known as the Offshore 'Scuba'. The one pictured is a special edition that is only available at AP boutiques (there is one in NYC at E 57th St between Park and Madison).

- SJX

[pchong]

Thanks SJX. This is the one.

[HappyStroller]

Thank you for your valuable advice, Mr. Chong.

As I am not a collector, but I am just using a watch either as a dress watch or for travelling purposes, then it follows that my personal preference for metal bracelets is hopefully allowed.

When it comes to dress watches, instead of complicated and horologically challenging ones, I still feel it is alright to consider the House of Piaget, as it seems to be in the same leagueas, if not better than, Baume & Mercier, Channel, Chopard, Harry Winston, the House of Cartier, Movado, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. They and even Rolex all seem to be able to design bejewelled watches for ladies. And, after all, even the late Jaqueline Kennedy owned a lovely Piaget dress watch.

You are absolutely right about not recommending a 49 mm. diameter watch in terms of elegance. When I checked such a size against my wrist, it either seemed ridiculous or such a watch would look like an Italian Panerai watch specially designed for aeronautical usage. 3.9 cm. or 4.1 cm. seems more suitable by today's fashion standards.

An off-the-shelf world time traveller's watch is not good enough for me because there are certain cities missing from their bezels. Hence the need for a customised version.

There's a place for a third watch to function as a sports watch. For such a watch, I agree with you steel or titanum are very suitable. Perhaps even a rubber strap would do also, but I think there's no need for a custom-made watch. Come to think of it, watches with compasses seem to malfunction often and perhaps a specially designed watch might be called for. However, a compass complication could even be built into a dress watch and would be especially useful for a travelling watch.

Some possibilities, if I may suggest

- don't get a bracelet. Collectors prefer watches on a croc strap, because a gold bracelet is expensive ($10k) and money is better spent in getting a higher end watch

- PP, VC are good places to start. Not Piaget. Look also at Lange. These are currently at the top of the game. If you wish for a 49mm watch, your options are severely limited if you also want it to look elegant. A tuna can that size will have great difficulty looking elegant. The only watch remotely dressy...at least designed in the classical sense is the Lange 31...not yet available, and will cost E135k. But will feature a remontoir (complication) and 31 day power reserve.

- a typical men's dress watch should be either 18k gold (white is best, yellow or pink are acceptable) or platinum. Steel and titanium is better suited as sports watches.

- if you don't mind a sporty watch, the options for a large watch open up a bit. Consider the AP Royal Oak offshore...often with complications like chronograph, or dual timezones.

Please continue to give me your feedback on what I have suggested, so we can refine the suggestions and narrow your search.

[pchong]

Dear Happy,

If you want Piaget, I am sorry you are on your own. They do nor make any watch which I consider of merit.

For others, look at

Lange - the Lange 1, Richard Lange, Datograph, Perpetual Langematic as starting points.

Patek Philippe - 5940 perpetual and variants, or the Nautilus for a more sporty rendition

VC - they make good watches, but I dislike the fact that the movements are much smaller than the case. I prefer a watch which has the case designed to fit the movement, and not larger for the sake of style.

JLC - the Reverso is a classic. Go for the GT size, the Duo is a good place to start. Also look at the Master Tourbillon - cheapest manufacture tourbillon in the market, currently.

Don't buy immediately, go to a retailer where you can see personally these pieces, and yes, go ahead compare with Piaget, and if you still prefer the Piaget, it is for you...go ahead and buy the one which speaks to you.

Feel free to put up your further thoughts when you have done so. Cheers.

[HappyStroller]

Hi, Mr. Chong, taking your advice to avoid Piagets like the plague, I have considered your list of suggested watches. Unfortunately, they're all pretty thick or have leather straps.

With a preference for ultra-thin watches, I guess I will look to Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin. But remember I was talking about customised watches.

[pchong]

Dear Happy Stroller,

Don't avoid Piaget if you like them. Personally I would, and I wouldn't be able to suggest anything for you to look at in their stable.

Your requirements will present some difficulty as ultra thin watches will not come with complications. By necessity, a complication will make the watch thicker.

You are right to take a look at VC and PP. They make lovely pieces, but your options for customization with PP will be very limited. With VC, perhaps a little better. Let me know if you need help there after you have decided what you want, and I can put you in touch with some people within VC who may assist.

Other places to look at might be the Independents. Roger Smith is a very small one person manufactur in Isle of Man who may be able to customise some pieces for you. Kari Voultilinen is another who will do excellent work. Romain Gautier is a third candidate. But be aware these independent suppliers are not inexpensive...their asking prices will tend to be at least 50% more than what PP or VC will ask for.

Finally, a semi-customised house you might consider is FP-Journe. His Chronometre Souverain may be a little simple for you, but it will be thin. Or the Resonance will fit the bill...two trains, two timezones, very thin. Again, if you want to have it customized, let me know. I will put you in touch with the right persons.

Enjoy the search.

[pchong]

duplicate deleted

[pchong]

apologies for duplicates...

[pchong]

duplicate deleted

[iammatt]

P Chong,

A question regarding VC. I tend to prefer their watches to all others simply based on the fact that their designs really fit my personal eye. I realize that this may not be the most sophisticated way of deciding which watch to buy, but it has served me rather well as I don't get too detailed.

When speaking of the most simple watches, for example, the Malte Grande Classique is infinitely more beautiful to my eye than any of the Calatrave, but I am interested to know what you mean about the movement not fitting. Looking at the back of mine, I do see the spacer ring that fills the gap, but I am wondering two things. First, why do they do this, and second, seeing that the watch would be too small for most men with a case that fit the movement, do you think they should have made a bigger movement and why?

Thanks for the insight.

[pchong]

movement development costs a lot of money. I suspect, when they do make a new inhouse movement, they want it to fit as many watches as is possible...so they generally design small, and use a movement ring when needed for a larger case.

For purist brands, like Lange, the cases are designed to fit the movement. When they do offer more than one size for the movement, like the Lange 1, then they don't use a movement ring, but a thicker case or thinner case. I think this approach is more authentique.

VC has a habit of putting very small movements in larger cases. Your example is a good case in point.

[Aristide]

movement development costs a lot of money. I suspect, when they do make a new inhouse movement, they want it to fit as many watches as is possible...so they generally design small, and use a movement ring when needed for a larger case.

For purist brands, like Lange, the cases are designed to fit the movement. When they do offer more than one size for the movement, like the Lange 1, then they don't use a movement ring, but a thicker case or thinner case. I think this approach is more authentique.

VC has a habit of putting very small movements in larger cases. Your example is a good case in point.

Is there any functional drawback to this practice, i.e., accuracy, durability, longevity, etc.?

[pchong]

Is there any functional drawback to this practice, i.e., accuracy, durability, longevity, etc.?

No functional or technical drawback. Just the aestetic and purity sense...a movement should be designed and fit one case, not one size fit all.