belts

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

Guest

Wed Jun 15, 2005 12:34 pm

Recently, someone praised Aubercy belts on AAAC. Also, there is a shop that specializes in custom-made belts in Paris, its name escapes me but they advertise in every issue of Monsieur (which though imperfect, with Dandy, a French quarterly, should be required reading for all us London Loungers). With that pre-amble, can anyone say what makes a great belt and where would I obtain it? I have perfectly fine belts from Coach, Alden, and Allen Edmonds. The Coach are a little thin (I mean in the depth dimension), the Alden could resist creases a little better, and the Allen Edmonds could look a little less plastic. I saw Lancel belts that were very nice, In Romania. Anyone?
Guest

Wed Jun 15, 2005 12:56 pm

Well, I use rarely belts, so I have just 4-5; they are all by Moreschi, in the plainest style I could find. They had an excellent alligator leather.

I think the point is to find the good leather, since that to find an artisan to work it is simple.

Giona.
T4phage
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Wed Jun 15, 2005 4:01 pm

Jona wrote:Well, I use rarely belts, so I have just 4-5; they are all by Moreschi, in the plainest style I could find. They had an excellent alligator leather.

I think the point is to find the good leather, since that to find an artisan to work it is simple.

Giona.
I agree with Giona, you have to start of with very very good leather. The buckle should be kept simple and not overly large.
RWS
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Wed Jun 15, 2005 5:15 pm

Both excellent buckles (including those made by the fine jewellers Larter & Son) and excellent leathers are comparatively easily found in the States. Finding an excellent beltmaker is, in my experience, more difficult (when I had T. O. Dey make a plain calfskin belt for my buckle, I received -- after several months -- a strip my local cobbler could have assembled faster and more accurately, and for a lower price; I learned a lesson, to be sure!).
smoothjazzone
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Wed Jun 15, 2005 5:37 pm

The best bespoke belts I have seen in the US are made by House of Fleming in Buckhead, Atlanta.

http://houseoffleming.com/

The quality of the leather and the worksmanship are exquisite.

I agree with the comments on having very simple buckles. The best simple belt buckles I have seen in the US are carried by Robert Talbot.

Hope that helps.
Guest

Wed Jun 15, 2005 10:18 pm

But SmoothJazzOne, that maker appears only to make crocadile belts, and their belts cost over 700 dollars!
le.gentleman
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Thu Jun 16, 2005 1:55 pm

for all the Germans - Kreis Guertel - is an excellent adress. He has an online 'belt configurator' http://www.kreisderguertel.de/konfigurator/shop_b.php4

Apart from that, you can also get real bespoke belts of highest quality there.

There are 2 kind of belts:

First, a belt which is made out of one piece and second, a belt which has 3 layers of leather. The layer on the outside(leather) - the one you can see. Tthe lining layer, which is a
a kind of elastic, breathable fleece and finally the leather layer on the inside.

Once more a link for all the Germans:

http://www.manager-magazin.de/life/mode ... 49,00.html

Cheers
Concordia
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Thu Jun 16, 2005 6:13 pm

Life is complicated enough right now without my worrying about belts. To me, these items are like everyday socks or boxer shorts. Get it right once, and forget about it.

Brooks Bros does some nice shell cordovan belts (black and otherwise). Orvis and LL Bean are OK for casual leather. One of these days, I might live it up and visit Cleverly or N&L to get one made of Russia calf, to match shoes.

Never bought any, but Crockett & Jones make some nice-looking belts to complement their shoes, with similarly high prices. Something like $150. Just yesterday, I saw some guy in Lobb of Paris getting fitted for a belt.
edhayes
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Sat Jun 25, 2005 10:11 pm

premier belts-premierbelts.com makes great belts very reasonably priced, I have four or five crocodile belts for them and love them, they make a wrapped buckle that is top quality
risto
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Tue Jun 28, 2005 1:23 pm

Just picked up three nice, yet very plain, Zegna belts in black and brown from a D.C. Filene's Basement ... $50/each. Good quality for the money.
S.Maran
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Wed Jul 06, 2005 3:41 pm

Edward Green have good belts on sale at the Burlington Arcade shop. They match the various leathers and colours of EG shoes.
Hartline
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Sat Jul 09, 2005 8:06 pm

I picked up an interesting belt at Gidden's shop a few months ago. It has a double fastening mechanizm and is made from bridle hide. (It is similar to Filson's Ranger model)

Filson's double width is very nice for casual wear. I have beautiful Sam Browne type, but that is going over the top.

Sadly, most of my dress belts are from Trafalgar. They have a short life usually and the hides are not all that great.

I have the standard 1 inch belt that Brooks sells for its slip buckle. The problem is that 1 inch is really skimpy. I'd like to find one that starts at 1 inch (because it would fit the buckle), but then progress to 1.5 or 1.75 or so[/color][/size]

I think the paucity of good belts is why I choose "strap and buckle" on most of my pants.[/size]
rjman
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Wed Aug 31, 2005 4:17 am

Concordia wrote: One of these days, I might live it up and visit Cleverly or N&L to get one made of Russia calf, to match shoes.
Go to Cleverley. They quoted a price 100 pounds cheaper than N&L and will make you the belt bespoke. N&L tends to mark up its accessories by a surprising amount.
le.gentleman
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Wed Aug 31, 2005 8:21 am

Concordia wrote:One of these days, I might live it up and visit Cleverly or N&L to get one made of Russia calf, to match shoes.
Do you match your shoes in colour and pattern? Personally, I only match the colour of my shoes and the belt whereas I try to use a different pattern. In my opinion this looks better. Matching both seems to me a bit boring and less sophisticated ecspecially when I use brown shoes and belt.
I only match colour and pattern wearing plain black shoes e.g plain 5 eyelet captoe oxfords, as I think that woven belts are inappropriate for business attire.

What do you think?
Guest

Wed Aug 31, 2005 8:40 am

I match only main colour, black/black, maroon/maroon, brown/brown.
Though, I prefer to have a slightly different shade of the colour.

Giona.
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