What kind of tie do you like? woven, printed or knitted...?

[manton]

I am curious as to why you seem not to be fond of prints?

First and foremost, it's the silk. Most of the silk used for prints is thin, insubstantial dreck. Second, I don't like the majority of the designs, which fall into two camps: cartoony (Hermes, Ferragamo, Vinyard Vines) and "pizza grenade" (too many to name).

Vanners, I had thought, was the maker who supplies the heavy, dense, dry, tight twill to Marinella and Drakes, among others. Correct me if I am wrong. But even then, for me, heavy silk is not enough to make a print good. Drakes has that 40 and 50 ounce twill that, in the abstract, seems wonderful. But in real life the hand is too soft and the weave too loose. Plus, I don't like the high shine.

The very best prints I have ever seen -- better than Drake or Marinella, generally the only prints I buy or wear -- were in the Flusser shop this year. I assume they were made by Drake, but am not sure. The silk was far better than the average Drake silk, in this case a very sturdy gum twill. And the printing was top of the line, with beautiful designs. The only silk that compares is the silk Bulgari uses, but I don't like their designs.

[manicturncoat]

H. Neuber, an institution in Florence, had some beautiful printed ties. I went by recently to visit the store but it was empty.

[masterfred]

I take such things on a case-by-case basis. There are certainly many print ties which make a flimsy knot, and plenty of wovens that tie up into clumsy, thick knots. Sometimes I prefer a more liquid, slippy tie, and a good print delivers that. I have had problems with some wovens having "catches" or pulls, and once that happens, the tie steadily loses ground, as it were. I love many of the ties Flusser sources, but at his prices, they're just too dear for me.

Is Neuber in Firenze no longer in business? Say it ain't so!

[Mulberrywood]

I am curious as to why you seem not to be fond of prints?

First and foremost, it's the silk. Most of the silk used for prints is thin, insubstantial dreck. Second, I don't like the majority of the designs, which fall into two camps: cartoony (Hermes, Ferragamo, Vinyard Vines) and "pizza grenade" (too many to name).

Now I understand your thoughts. Thank you for explaining. I wear ties based on my feelings and interests and the setting, so I have not yet worn a cartoony tie, and understand your feelings. However, as a subtle point, I think that they are just fine if someone likes them and the setting is appropriate. I once heard a gentlemen say that his Hermes ties were not silly at a distance, only whimsical if you looked at them up close. a good point, and if I were a doctor I would often wear whimiscal ties.


Vanners, I had thought, was the maker who supplies the heavy, dense, dry, tight twill to Marinella and Drakes, among others. Correct me if I am wrong. But even then, for me, heavy silk is not enough to make a print good. Drakes has that 40 and 50 ounce twill that, in the abstract, seems wonderful. But in real life the hand is too soft and the weave too loose. Plus, I don't like the high shine.

Typically (always room for variations in life...) Vanners will supply woven silks, and Adamley printed siks to Drake. Drake then makes ties for Marinella. (Not all Marinellas ties but quite a few). The choice of designs and silks is a back and forth activity. The designers at Adamley and Vanners have input from Drakes/Marinella. After the designs are made someone from the mill will typically go down to London and get Drakes approval.

The very best prints I have ever seen -- better than Drake or Marinella, generally the only prints I buy or wear -- were in the Flusser shop this year. I assume they were made by Drake, but am not sure. The silk was far better than the average Drake silk, in this case a very sturdy gum twill. And the printing was top of the line, with beautiful designs. The only silk that compares is the silk Bulgari uses, but I don't like their designs.

Again I understand your comments on Bulagri. "W" a gentleman with very good taste in SF made the exact same comments to me a few months back while we were working on developing a pattern. After reading your post I was curious so I compared one of Bulgari's printed silks with an English printed silk.

The English Adamley silk had a dryer finish and was perhaps slightly lighter but not looser. The differences are basically stylistic, not one of quality. As for the print quality again basically the same. Keep in mind that you can have the basic white silk that you start with finished with different textures, it is mostly a matter of preference rather than quality.

Thanks for pointing me towards the Flusser prints. Are the designs that you like on this webpage by chance?
http://www.alanflussercustom.com/furnishings.html

[kolecho]

Drake then makes ties for Marinella. (Not all Marinellas ties but quite a few).

Is this true? It does not make sense, especially since labour cost in the UK is so much higher than a place like Naples.