Dormueil "Tonik" DB

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

yachtie
Posts: 349
Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 6:42 pm
Contact:

Fri Jul 06, 2007 5:19 am

smoothjazzone wrote:In tailored clothing land, thats a mile

Nice suit -- love the fabric

I have a suit from a different fabric in the same bunch with lower mohair content

BTW, given the high mohair content, you could have done the sleeves unlined
yachtie wrote:I wouldn't shorten it more than 3/4".
I know, but it'd really feel wrong to me if shortened. I'm doing a DB sportcoat that's shorter by about that much.IMO sportcoats can be shorter and still be comfortable to wear. I'll leave this one as is. Some jackets I've seen are really too short for my taste.

It's still plenty cool with the lined sleeves, but as with most mohairs it gets " fuzzy" when it's really humid. Interesting effect.
schneidergott
Posts: 149
Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 8:13 pm
Location: Castle Douglas, Scotland

Sat Jul 14, 2007 9:46 am

Hello, yachtie!

In the olden days they had very heavy and soft woolen cloths, where the tailors could and would change the shape of a jacket just with a heavy iron and a wet linen cloth!
But this kind of material is not easy to deal with and a tailor has to work ever so precise, or you will see even the slightest mistake. This leads me to the reason I write this: I work for a german company that offers MTM suits, and most of our customers(and we as tailors) would not accept a jacket like this. But first one question:
Did you stand for the photos differently? If not I have some suggestions:
The front is nice, except for the bottom hem turning outside, which should not happen. Maybe it is just a matter of correct pressing.
For what I can see, the back is not correct, in fact it seems to have too much length from neck to/ and between the blades
When you check the picture of the rear, you'll notice the wrinkles in the waist. And there is some sort of tension on the closing button, which could mean, that the jacket is a bit too tight there, pulling the back forward, therefore causing those wrinkles.
Another thing that springs to my eye is something we have to deal with very often at work:
The sleeves have to be moved slightly forward at the shoulder, thus avoiding the big wrinkles above and around the elbow.
If your suite still looks like this today and you have the chance to visit the tailor who made it, let him know about these "flaws". They are(quite) easy to remove and this suit will look even better, as will do any further suits. If that tailor already has a good reputation he will gladly do those minor alterations.
Minor I call them as the basic balance is almost perfect. Neckline is great, as the collar fits the neck almost perfectly, not showing or covering the shirt collar too much! The length of the jacket is totally acceptable, if you like it that way.

I just hope, you will enjoy the suit even more then!

Greetings from Solingen/ Germany,

schneidergott
yachtie
Posts: 349
Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 6:42 pm
Contact:

Sun Jul 15, 2007 2:10 am

Thanks Schneidergott! The day was very humid and the cloth was losing it's press. I agree that the sleeves need to come forward a bit at the shoulder. It's not that the button is too tight but it's vertical location needs minor adjustment. I really need to stand normally when being photographed. A good repress should "correct" much of what you see.

Thanks again.
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