Suit trousers: variations when ordering 2 pairs

[kolecho]

I started ordering 2 pairs of trousers with every suit recently. The cut is the same, but I generally make small variations in the details of the trousers: eg: inward/outward facing pleats and waist button tab/metal buckle.

I was thinking that I should try making 2 pairs of trousers in different cuts and details to go with the same suit jacket next time. This is what I have in mind.

Trousers 1
- Two pleats on each side
- Cuffed hem
- Full cut
- On-seam side pockets
- Button side tabs on waistband
- Rise: up to navel

Trousers 2
- Flat front
- Plain hem (no cuff)
- Slightly narrower cut to complement flat front
- Slanted side pockets
- Metal buckle on waistband
- Rise: up to navel

For trousers 1, I am trying to do something with mostly English influences, while Trousers 2 will be Italian inspired.

Questions:
- Would different trousers cut go well with the same suit jacket?
- Given the variations in the trousers, is there anything that I need to do to suit jacket?

Thanks for your advice.

[dopey]

My practice has been to get two pairs of trousers with most of my suits. They were generally made in similar style but with one being with a high fishtaill back and the other having a straighter back. More recently, I had the straight back ones made with an open lapped seam at my tailor's suggestion.

I don't think much of the concept of getting a suit with trousers in two distinct styles, e.g., Savile Row and modern Italian, as you will either be stuck with either one of the trousers not really harmonizing with the jacket or else a jacket that tries to walk the middle line and timidly tiptoes neither on one side or the other. On the other hand, the specifications you have actually suggested does not really seem to be that much of an extreme difference and should work fine. I would be guided more by whether you think the one or the other of the full or slim cut looks better on you. But if both work equally well, then why not get both? In any event, there really is no reason why I shouldn't take some inspiration from you and see if I might benefit from a bit more variation myself.

[Concordia]

Trousers have to balance to some degree with the jacket, and I wouldn't want to interfere with a tailor who seems to have a handle on that issue.

When I've ordered a second pair of trousers, I've taken one with belt loops, one with a high fishtail back. This especially makes sense for summer suits or those that I might take to a meeting and remove my jacket. Both pleated, cuffed, etc., and otherwise the same.

When the LL flannel comes and if I decide finally to go DB with that project, I will likely get 2 for braces, as flannel really looks sloppy without being hung from the shoulders. I may go so far as to order one lined and one not.

[DFR]

When I get two pairs of trousers with a suit I always follow the way suggested by Dopey and Concordia. ie:

Pair 1

Fishtail back and about 1" above naval. Aim is a good high fit.
Side seam pockets
Discreet front watch pocket at right at conjunction of waist band and trousers.
usually no back pockets.
Button fly
More generous in thigh.

Pair 2
Lower cut with either belt or side adjusters and extension band.
Slant side pockets
two button through back pockets with double jet style
Concealed watch pocket HK style in waist band.
Zip fly.

Other details such as pleats and lining/cuffs always remain the same.
This then gives me the ability to wear a suit all round the year - those that I have are either/or in these features tend to be summer (type 2) or winter (type 1).

[couch]

Kolecho,

I have done almost exactly what you describe, although I always prefer on-seam pockets for either variation, and I don't care for metal side buckles, especially on a more clean-lined flat-front style. If both trousers sit at the navel/waist, and both have about the same width at the knee and cuff, then adding enough fullness at the thigh/hip for pleats (forward pleats for me) is almost the only difference in silhouette. So this kind of variation can, as dopey implies, inflect the feel of the suit subtly rather than dramatically. On my flat-front suit pants I often ask for front darts, which on a trim build allow a good waist fit while avoiding tightness across the fly. With this technique (and no doubt with others) you can have a very clean line on a flat-front trouser with enough ease to properly relate to a well-cut jacket's skirt.

[Arpey]

When living for a time in Scotland, I had a couple of tweed suits made with full length lined trousers and a second pair of plus-fours. Came in handy for a while although now in the States I only wear the knickerbockers during high snows, (people may laugh but I don't suffer from cold wet trouser bottoms).

[kolecho]

Kolecho,

I have done almost exactly what you describe, although I always prefer on-seam pockets for either variation, and I don't care for metal side buckles, especially on a more clean-lined flat-front style. If both trousers sit at the navel/waist, and both have about the same width at the knee and cuff, then adding enough fullness at the thigh/hip for pleats (forward pleats for me) is almost the only difference in silhouette. So this kind of variation can, as dopey implies, inflect the feel of the suit subtly rather than dramatically. On my flat-front suit pants I often ask for front darts, which on a trim build allow a good waist fit while avoiding tightness across the fly. With this technique (and no doubt with others) you can have a very clean line on a flat-front trouser with enough ease to properly relate to a well-cut jacket's skirt.

Darts on flat front trousers - that is interesting. I will discuss this with my tailor. The last time I had flat front trousers on, they felt restrictive relative to pleated trousers. I guess clean lines come at a price.

[couch]

Alas, it's true. And of course pleats will always be less restrictive than flat fronts, even with darts. But they can help.

[culverwood]

I was about to post a similar question but having found this post will not.

Kolecho what happened in the end? Your choices were close to what I have in mind.

[the tailor]

I more often than not cut my flat front trousers with front darts.

[Concordia]

I used to have that done a fair bit. My tailor at the time put way too much cloth into a plain front, and the way to save it was a strategic pair of snips up by the waistband. I liked it so much that I had them, and their successor, do it for every pair.

Finally, I bit the bullet and decided that I really needed pleats and shouldn't be ashamed of that. But it was a good interim solution, and I might use it again for more casual belted trousers.

[The Doctor]

Don't forget to alternate them.

I have a customer who orders 3 pairs with every suit exactly the same and sometimes 4.