A fancy frock coat

[jruley]

Here's a fancy trimmed 19th century frock as seen at the "Ladies and Gentlemen of the 1860's" annual conference in Harrisburg, PA 2007.

Front overview of the coat showing shiny facings on the lapels and braid trim. Based on the straight sleeve shape I believe this coat most likely dates from the 1870's - 80's.



Closeup of the collar showing fine quality wool, details of braiding and facing and a beautifully executed buttonhole.



Closeup of cuff. This is trimmed with braid which is mitred to create the illusion of a slit, but is non-functional. Buttonholes are blind. Silk patterned buttons match those of the front



Rear view showing the trim continuing round the collar and down the tail vent. Note that it stops at the bottom of skirt, which to the best of my recollection was raw.



Enjoy,

Jim R.

[HappyStroller]

Jim, this coat looks very long. Is it possible it is a frock overcoat, instead of a frock coat?

[jruley]

Jim, this coat looks very long. Is it possible it is a frock overcoat, instead of a frock coat?

It certainly can't be ruled out. Coats of this vintage rarely bear labels, and size markings are even rarer. Unless there is known "provenance" such as a photo of an individual wearing the garment, identification is somewhat conjectural.

Thanks,

Jim R.

[Sator]

Facings on frock overcoats are rare. Braiding rarer still. I am almost 100% certain that this superb example of a very dressy frock coat would not have been intended as an overcoat.

I own a vintage/anitque morning coat with similar braiding. However, this is the first I have ever seen of a frock coat with this feature.

I always find it fascinating how the lapels on frock coats and dress coats were cut separately. The practice seems to have gone out of date around the Edwardian era. Interestingly, morning coats were cut with the lapels and body in one piece long before it became standard practice with frock and dress coats.

Thank you for sharing the pictures.

[jruley]

I always find it fascinating how the lapels on frock coats and dress coats were cut separately. The practice seems to have gone out of date around the Edwardian era.

This plate from DeVere's 1866 book shows several different ways of cutting the lapel:



You will also find on some coats that the body side of the lapel is cut separately, but the facing and top side are one piece, leaving no visible seam at the junction with the collar.

Regards,

Jim R.