Morning coat pattern?

[Sator]

That's better but you need to show more shirt sleeve than that. The shirt looks like it has an attached collar - which is a big faux pas. It is obvious from the fact that the collar height is grossly inadequate in the usual modern manner and doubly inadequate for anything in a pre-1940s style. Also those had better be patent leather button boots you are wearing because they certainly don't look like opera pumps to me. Another part of me fears they are Kenneth Coles square toed monstrosities. I also hope that is not a pocket watch you are sporting with evening full dress (another BIG faux pas). An Albert may be seen with evening full dress with a fob but not with a watch. Even then no chain at all is the usual configuration in most period depictions. Next, you should at least be carrying your collapsible opera hat.

However, I am very impressed by the way the lapels have been cut separately on the coat. Maybe it is the picture, but a cuffed sleeves was the usual style in the mid to latter part of the 19th C. Again the coat also needs to be much more closely fitted both at the shoulder and through the waist. The usual period practice is one of tiny armholes with the shoulders cut close in - there is a bit of droop at the ends of the coat here.

I should say I am being VERY tough on you. I can see you have gone to a lot of trouble to have that dress suit made in a period style.

[HappyStroller]

I'm very impressed with the frock overcoat and am thinking of commissioning one, as I find my medium grey Herringbone Chesterfield not as impressive-looking as I had expected. Perhaps the colour sheme selected looks too effeminate.

Would the pattern for the frock coat be suitable for cutting the frock overcoat, or are they quite different?

This page from DeVere's book illustrates my point:



Notice how the frock coat skirt is cut square at the front, and angled at the back. In contrast, both the dress coat and Newmarket skirt are cut square at the back. Therefore, from the cutter's perspective the Newmarket is closer to the dress coat than the frock -- at least in this antiquated system.

Thanks,

Jim R.

[jruley]

(deleted by original poster)

[Carey]

Since you will be dealing with an unfamiliar pattern, make a muslin mockup to start with. This will allow you to solve many fitting problems before cutting your expensive fashion fabric. Two or three tries may be necessary before the mockup fits well; it's time well spent.

Yes, she'll be making mockups. She calls them something else--some technical name--but yeah, she's been planning to make mockups from the start.
Thank you for the link, by the way!

By all means, make the coat in brown if that goes with your chosen color scheme. Having said that, it may be hard to find good wool in a chocolate brown color.

That's a good point about the wool. I hope that doesn't become a major sticking point. We also have to find a brown top hat--a relative claims to be able to locate such a thing. This is a rather... unconventional wedding... so we're not concerned with what colors are considered proper. But thanks for the support!

[jruley]

(deleted by original poster)

[Carey]

Benderhats looks great, Jim, thanks!