New Bespoke Suit

[bslo99]

Hello all,

On the Yahoo forum I wrote about the bespoke suit that I commissioned from a local tailor in Pennsylvania. The suit turned out so well that I decided to commission another. In deciding on a fabric, I considered several factors: 1) I am moving to a warm climate this summer (northern Florida); 2) I tend to get hot easily; 3) I will mostly wear the suit in class (I am a professor) and will be moving around a lot in the suit. Based on the above factors, I decided that a fabric with mohair might be appropriate. I purchased a light, medium blue fabric that is 60% wool, 40% mohair. The fabric is Dormeuil and is about 10oz. Purchased from Singer's in Manhattan. I really like the fabric a lot. Actually, my tailor told me that a couple of his customers saw my suit in progress and liked the fabric so much that they wanted suits in the same fabric.

Anyway, I got the suit back yesterday, and I think my tailor did a very good job. My tailor told me that he really likes working with mohair, and the results certainly support his view. The lapel roll is gorgeous. I love a nice, generous lapel roll, and this suit has one of the best that I have ever seen. If you look under the lapel, you'll see hundreds of stitches sewn by hand (it's easier to see them with the lighter fabric). The shoulders are roped, which I like, and slightly padded, the armholes are high, the front quarters (I think this is the correct term) are open (which I specifically asked for), and the jacket is partially lined. The fit is very good, I think. The tailor does all the work himself, most of it by hand.

I am certainly no expert, but the only aspects of the suit that might not be perfect are the buttons on the sleeves and the button hole on the jacket. Although the sleeve buttons kiss (which I requested), they are farther from the end of the sleeve than is the norm. Also, the button hole on the lapel, although hand made, has a keyhold shape and is not very long, which I understand is not as desirable as a longer, straight button hole. I think these are minor quibbles, though. Do you all agree?

I addition to describing my new suit, I have another purpose for this posting. I would like some advice. As I mentioned earlier, I will soon be moving to Florida. I would love to maintain my association with this tailor, and he with me. He told me that he has my pattern and can just make clothes for me and mail them to me in Florida. Is this wise? I have to say that his pattern for me is very accurate. With my second suit, virtually no changes were made at my fittings. Am I asking for trouble if I commission suits from this tailor without any fittings? Another option, besides the obvious one of looking for a new tailor (which I don't want to do), is that my mother in law lives in the area and I will probably visit at least once a year (Christmas). Should I just plan on doing a fitting during my one visit and not risk ordering a suit without a fitting?

Please feel free to comment on my dilemma. I'm also interested in what others think about fabrics with a mohair content.

Brian

[cuffthis]

Brian,

Who was the tailor? I live in Delaware and am always looking for local talent. Also, can you post some pictures of the suit? I'm sure the members would love to see the details.

Regards,

Tom

[citizenk]

Brian,

We would love to see a picture of you relaxing, looking debonair, in your new suit.

From your description it souds beautiful!

v/r

John K.

[Mark Seitelman]

I would continue the association on a suit by suit basis assuming that you have no radical changes in weight.

You may find that you still need a local tailor for minor alterations.

Good luck!

[bslo99]

Mark--Thank you for the advice. That's exactly what I'm going to do. Actually, I took the jacket back to my tailor today to make a couple of minor adjustments (the sides up near the armpits needed to be taken in just a bit). The tailor is also making a navy sport coat for me right now, so by the time I leave he'll have made 3 coats and 4 pairs of pants for me (2 pairs with each suit). Like you said, barring any fluctuations in weight, a long distance relationship should not be a problem.

I apologize for not having posted pictures. Unfortunately, as I mentioned above, the coat is now at the tailor's again. I'm moving in about two weeks, so I don't know if I'll get around to taking pictures before then. If not, I'll try to do it after I love.

Nobody has commented on mohair fabric. Like my new suit, the sport coat that I am having made also is 60% wool, 40% mohair. I really like mohair. The fabric has a slight sheen, which I don't mind at all. I think it will be a great warm weather fabric. Also, it is a bit stiffer than wool, which allowes my tailor to give more curve to the lapels of the jacket, which I really like. Anyone have comments?

[Mark Seitelman]

I never bought a mohair suit.

Alan Flusser used to feature mohair each summer in "exclusive" bolts for the shop. Unfortunately, I did not try it when I was a customer.

[RWS]

My favorite dinner jacket and trousers are of mohair. I've been able to wear them year 'round, in a variety of climes: they always keep a nice "press" (without ironing), always are comfortable, always (I think) present a fine appearance. You'd enjoy the 60-40, I think.

[jekarwoski]

I don't know if I'll get around to taking pictures before then. If not, I'll try to do it after I love.

OK, but please, just pictures of the suit!

I'd be interested in learning this tailor's name and location, as I'm somewhat close to Harrisburg.