Lobb, Cleverley and G&G

[sartorius]

I am thinking of commissioning two or three pairs of bespoke shoes. I'm fairly conservative, so would probably be looking at a pair of black brogues and some brown loafers for more casual wear.

Can anyone comment on the relative price, fit and quality of Lobb, Cleverly and Graziano & Girling?

[smoothjazzone]

Based on my own experience and that of friends (take it for what its worth), you can't go wrong with Lobb Paris, Lobb St. James and Cleverley. The Lobbs are much more expensive -- Cleverley makes some of the finest, well-fitting and well-priced bespoke shoes. Also, Lobb St. James is more likely to focus on comfort than the looks.

Can't recommend G&G yet.

I am thinking of commissioning two or three pairs of bespoke shoes. I'm fairly conservative, so would probably be looking at a pair of black brogues and some brown loafers for more casual wear.

Can anyone comment on the relative price, fit and quality of Lobb, Cleverly and Graziano & Girling?

[culverwood]

If you are in London do not leave Foster and Son / Henry Maxwell off your list they are on Jermyn St so on your way between Lobb and Cleverley and prices are at the Cleverly rather than Lobb level.

[Will]

Can anyone comment on the relative price, fit and quality of Lobb, Cleverly and Graziano & Girling?

Lobb is the most expensive (Paris or London) and London has the blobbiest lasts.

Cleverley is conservative and, by the standards of Engliush bespoke, well priced.

G&G is the most fashion forward though he will make a traditional shoe if that's what you want.

[manton]

Cleverley got my fit right from the first shoe and has required no changes since (it's been 12 years now).

G&G (then EG) produced a first shoe which fit well but not perfectly. I asked for a handful of corrections, all of which were made. The second shoe fits, I would say, as close to perfect as it can get.

Lobb Paris produced a disastrous first shoe, which I refused to accept. They remade the shoes, and I consider them the best shoes I own in terms of construction, styling, last shape, fit, and finishing.

The Cleverley last shapes are probably the least stylized, and the most individual. It's a truly bespoke looking shoe, and every customer seems to receive shoes with a quirky individual shape. As I have said before, they make YOUR FOOT, warts and all. Their one signature look is the oft-copied Cleverley chisel toe, which others try to imitate, with only partial success.

The G&G last shape is more stylized. There really is a G&G look to the last. They make a longish toe, which is just something Tony likes to do. The shoe also looks narrower overall, even the ones that fit perfectly. (My first pair was probably a hair too narrow at my little toe.) The shoes are more "angular" and contemporary looking.

The Lobb Paris last is subtle and supremely elegant. It's hard to put into words what distinguishes it. Have a look at their samples and it may come to you. One thing I can say, no one does the banana shape better. The difference between the inside lines and the outside lines are noticable. It's a lower cut shoe overall, but not as narrow as G&G, and definitely more rounded.

Cleverley's weakest point is the make and finishing. The bevelled waists are just ok. On non-black shoes, I have noticed little indications of sloppiness here and there: a small glue spot, a little nick, a loose thread.

G&G's finishing is extraordinary. The waist treatment shines. They clearly put a lot of care into making sure the shoes are as sharp and clean as possible. I would almost use the word "ostentatious" to describe it. It's no accident that the shoe porn addicts get more excited about G&G bespoke than any other maker.

Lobb Paris's construction is, in my opinion, superior but quieter. You don't see anything, really. Hardly any stitches, seams, or layers are visible. Those that are, are minute. The shoes look like sculptures, hewn from a single block of something. They are quite a bit tougher feeling than Cleverley or G&G, just stronger overall, from the uppers to the sole to the heel. They are perhaps marginally heavier and stiffer as a consequence, but not noticably so.

[bry2000]

I have never used any of these makers. Cleverly seems to have had some turnover over the years. Can anyone who is a relatively new customer of Cleverly comment on the fit and make of the bespoke shoes?

I received notice that Dominic Casey, a designer, will be representing Cleverly in NYC in mid-April. George Glasgow will be in NY in mid-May. Which would be the better person to see?

[bengal-stripe]

I am thinking of commissioning two or three pairs of bespoke shoes.

It’s probably not a good idea, to commission two or three pairs in one go. Go to the shoemaker of your choice, order one pair, wear it for a couple of months then order the second and third pair. By then you will know exactly what you like and what you don’t like about the shoes, and what alterations you want in the subsequent pair(s). This might be a question of fit or questions of aesthetics and look.

Go to all the firms you consider, talk to them, look at their samples and settle for the one you feel most comfortable with. (It's like choosing a shrink!)

[sartorius]

These are extremely helpful posts. It looks like Lobb is going to be my first choice - which I guess was inevitable (they being the most expensive...)

Will - I like your style - have never seen the word "blobbiest" used to describe a shoe (or anything else for that matter!), but I think I know exactly what you mean.