The whys and wherefores of tweed

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

Mr JRM
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Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:54 am

beaut post. apologies if this question is stupid (but my left brain has taken hold of me again) but are tweeds and tartans in any way related?
Marabunta
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Sun Mar 25, 2007 6:50 pm

What glorious photos. I've taken magnifying glasses to tweeds, to get a closer look at all the colors and textures. Remarkable weaves. Haunting landscapes. Thank you!
Marcus Bergman
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Mon Mar 26, 2007 7:44 am

I could have assumed that the red overcheck one was Hackett's Horse & Hound special from 1999. Anyone know if this was made by Brora? /Cheers, MB
couch
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Fri Mar 30, 2007 7:24 pm

Two questions:

1. Manton, is the second swatch above the one in the odd jacket you were wearing after the Saturdaay CSE? A truly magnificent garment.

2. Smoothjazz / Alden, did I hear that correctly? NHTC is out of business? Where does one go now?
bry2000
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Fri Mar 30, 2007 7:49 pm

Yes, can you confirm that NHTC is out of business. Is there any inventory left?

Couch, you can still look for Porter & Harding and J Hardy.
manton
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Fri Mar 30, 2007 8:04 pm

couch wrote:1. Manton, is the second swatch above the one in the odd jacket you were wearing after the Saturdaay CSE?
Same base color, but on mine, the windowpane is blue in both directions.
mikepara
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Sun Apr 08, 2007 1:37 pm

Mr JRM wrote:beaut post. apologies if this question is stupid (but my left brain has taken hold of me again) but are tweeds and tartans in any way related?
Tartans were originally from the Highlands, where each family or clan had their own pattern. The colours were usually determined by the dye-plants available in their area. The patterns and colours we know today generally originate since 1822 when George IV visited Scotland. The event was stage-managed by Sir Walter Scott who ensured all the local dignitaries were dressed in their clan tartans, mostly designed there and then.

So far as structure goes, tartan is usually a 2/2 twill weave which means there are two threads raised and 2 are left down. This makes a diagonal patterning across the fabric. (You can see this clearly on the earlier photographs) Ocassionally a plain or tabby weave is used which is one thread up, one down.

Many tweeds use the 2/2 twill pattern but you can also find reverse twill which form a zig-zag pattern in the structure.
Sir Royston
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Thu Oct 02, 2008 2:58 pm

dopey wrote:
smoothjazzone wrote:I guess we need to design a grey and black tweed for the asphalt jungle of Manhattan! Or maybe the reverse chalk stripe will be enough.
It's been done. Can't say I am enamored with the result. Plus it doesn't account for the rats.

Image
I have seen some "Dashing Tweeds" and they are certainly "Bold".. Cant quite decide if I like them or not..
Edward Bainbridge
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Sun Sep 05, 2010 10:14 am

Michael,

if you have some spare time and it's not much work, would you terribly mind to update the links in your original post? I remember the pictures and the comparison were quite impressive.
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