Help: building a wardrobe

[H. Norman]

This is a question not only for Alden but also for all you knowledgeable gentlemen: how and where would you start building your wardrobe? I have read Alden's excellent post regarding "minimum wardrobe", but even then it is a big task to accomplish. May I rattle your brains to reveal how you started, what stages you are at and what pitfalls or expensive mistakes to watch out for and avoid?

I live in London but have been very disappointed by Jermyn street RTW shirts and MTM suits by Timonthy Everest to the point that I am willing to travel to Paris or Italy or even Hong Kong to get my bespoke clothes made. Would any of you start your bespoke wardrobe in London now? What is the ratio of English vs. Italian in your wardrobe? Is Hong Kong well regarded in the bespoke world? I am wearing my father's bespoke suits made in Hong Kong, they fit me reasonably well considering they are all over twenty years old.

Thank you in advance for your help, I have been enjoying reading your posts and insight into sartorial enlightenment; as a result, I am now convinced there can be no other way to true elegance than to become a bespoke customer. Your experience and guidance are much appreciated.

[DD MacDonald]

H, contact one of the Lounge Artisans, the CAP, everyone is a gem. Talk with or meet with them and start the process.

We can debate style and this or that, but the reality is that each one will build clothing for you as an individual. Michael has met with each one and there are many here who will provide references but there is no measure like your own. If you live in England, use an English tailor so that you can meet with them to craft and build the garments. No one gets it right the first time and it is really helpful to have your partner in this close to hand rather than far afield. Build the basics locally.

That's my view.

Don't take it too seriously and have some fun, part of this is discovery.

DDM

[Will]

Useful answers to your questions would require a bit more information, particularly what you already have and what you can budget.

Speaking generally, European travel won't save you meaningful money until you go as far as Southern Italy or Eastern Europe.

Hong Kong is a very reasonable alternative for shirts, in my experience, and can be for tailored clothing. The suits are better if they have a properly fitting garment to copy, but Ah Man and Chan can both turn out reasonable work for thirty percent of Savile Row prices. You'll need multiple adjustments typically to get the first one right.

You have however come to the right place for advice!

[H. Norman]

Thanks very much for the advice, where do I find CAP in the LL? I would like a recommendation for shirt, suit and shoe artisan in London. I certainly do not want to be chasing after fame or label, personal recommendations are what I seek. To give more information, I am in my late 30s, medium build, have what they call a "prominent chest" due to my sports pursuits, and a slim waist. With RTW shirts if the neck is correct size then the sleeves are too long for me. Suits lapels buckle due to my pectorial muscles. Shoes that are comfortable don't look good, shoes that look great hurt my feet like hell. I really want to go bespoke but want to start sensibly and avoid making expensive mistakes. I am hoping you gentlemen would provide some guidance. Should I post this in the London chapter rather than here?

[Concordia]

The Certified Artisan discussion board seems to have been melded into something else. So I'll go on memory:

Most of the London tailors who've made it through that filter are affiliated with Anderson & Sheppard, or are one of their alumni-- Thomas Mahon (English Cut), Ed DeBoise (Steed), and Steven Hitchcock. I think one of the cutters at Poole's was well spoken of. There are, of course, others with slightly-- or completely-- different styles. If you PM me I can share comparative impressions of the A&S-related crew.

Everyone has an opinion about shirts. I don't believe LL has explicitly endorsed any London makers. Apologies to those slighted if I have that wrong. I use Bob Whittaker at Dege (currently touring the US), and have no complaints that wouldn't be addressed by my living in London to make small repairs or corrections easier. One also hears good things about Sean O'Flynn, lately of New & Lingwood, and Stephen Lachter, who was the shirt guy at Hawes & Curtis before that shop sold its soul. I can verify none of that except to say that the endorsements come from credible folk.

Shoes are a more limited universe. Cleverley is one of the genuinely safe choices, and the shop from whom I have more shoes than any other. Gaziano & Girling (ex-Edward Green) are a little more "fashion forward" and getting a lot of attention for their craftsmanship. Paul Davies is working solo, having left Cleverley. He does good work, and if you find his sense of style appropriate he might be a good choice. Foster's is well thought of. Lobb St James is quite a lot more expensive than the others, and still keeps its clients returning. There are one or two ex-Lobb guys working as independents. That's about it on shoes.

[angelo]

H,
as the flights between London and Naples are very cheap (including Ryanair ones) I would suggest You to go to Naples for Your wardrobe; in this way You will save money , without loosing qualit by choosing a tailor such as Gennaro Solito, as compared to SR . His address is the following : Via Toledo 256 Naples ;phone number: 00390811414095.Likely his son Luigi will speak a little bit of english.
You can also find topclass bespoke shirtmakers such as Merolla & Dell'Ero who have their premise in Palazzo Calabritto ,Piazza De Martiri as well as a bespoke shoemaker such as Paolo Scafora(web address:www.PaoloScafora.it) whose workshop is very close in Via Calabritto. In half a mile Yuo will find everything You need for Your bespoke wardrobe.

[alden]

The list of London Lounge Certified Artisans can be found in the Bespoke Forum:

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... 1309#21309

[Mark Seitelman]

To H. Norman:

Evidently cost is a concern to you. Otherwise, why journey around the world when you have in your front yard some of the best tailors and shirtmakers around?

It's O.K. to admit that cost is an issue. It's an issue with me, and some of my friends in the fora also have price as a concern.

There are lower cost tailors in your city than the "usual suspects" of Savile Row. Since I don't live in your city I wouldn't hazard a recommendation. I suggest some research on Ask Andy which has had a number of threads on lower cost bespoke tailors in London. I would also post an inquiry here.

Some lower priced alternatives come to mind:

1. George. I read about his no-frillls shop in www.bownsbespoke.com.

2. Graham Browne. I have examined a couple of his suits in a NYC resale shop, and they're handmade suits.

Hong Kong is essentially known for its relatively cheap and efficient production. Basically, people go to Hong Kong to have things copied. There is no "Hong Kong" style as such. Essentially, the Chinese make copies of English, Roman, Armani, and Neopolitan suits.

Good luck.

[H. Norman]

Thank you for your valuable input, gentlemen. Yes cost is a concern, how I wish it isn't! What concerns me more than pure cost is what I get for the amount of money spent. I am happy to part with £3000 if the suit I get in return is beautifully made, fits me perfectly and of a style that compliments my body shape and complexion. I am unwilling to pay £1000 for a MTM that takes three months to make and only gets as far as "almost" fitting me, as is the case of Timothy Everest. Even though the cost is lower, I still view it as an expensive mistake, rather than money well spent.

On another note, if one has a limited budge, what percentage would one allocate to shirts, suits, shoes and accessories? Would a 20:30:40:10 ratio be prudent?

[Mark Seitelman]

Why don't you visit my friend, Allan Bennett of Davies & Son? He's very honest, he's a real tailor who apprenticed the old fashioned way, and he might have a lower cost alternative than full bespoke (his price is about 2,100 GBS). I can recommend him without reservation.

If you call, mention me. Allan will be in NYC next Wednesday till Saturday, therefore try to catch him or talk to his associate, Andrew Musson.

[kolecho]

To H. Norman:

Evidently cost is a concern to you. Otherwise, why journey around the world when you have in your front yard some of the best tailors and shirtmakers around?

It's O.K. to admit that cost is an issue. It's an issue with me, and some of my friends in the fora also have price as a concern.

There are lower cost tailors in your city than the "usual suspects" of Savile Row. Since I don't live in your city I wouldn't hazard a recommendation. I suggest some research on Ask Andy which has had a number of threads on lower cost bespoke tailors in London. I would also post an inquiry here.

Some lower priced alternatives come to mind:

1. George. I read about his no-frillls shop in www.bownsbespoke.com.

2. Graham Browne. I have examined a couple of his suits in a NYC resale shop, and they're handmade suits.

Hong Kong is essentially known for its relatively cheap and efficient production. Basically, people go to Hong Kong to have things copied. There is no "Hong Kong" style as such. Essentially, the Chinese make copies of English, Roman, Armani, and Neopolitan suits.

Good luck.

Mark,

I am not sure if you have ever tried Hong Kong tailors and gone through 3-4 fittings without rushing to leave. Very good Hong Kong tailors can be found, and they are typically of Shanghainese descent. They are stylistically influenced by the English. Reputable houses in Hong Kong can give SR a good run for the money if one is, not rushed for fittings, has access to good English cloth, and has knowledge to guide the tailor.