George V admirer - Summer visit to Savile Row

[HappyStroller]

My time-table may allow me to stay in London this Summer (2007), so that I could pay a visit to commission a few bespoke suits.

I thought it might be fitting to commission at least one Morning Dress probably in cashmere, and an Evening Dress (complete with double-striped pants, vest and shirt) for my first appontment/s.

I admire the sartorial standards of King George V most, as his dress seems to project an image of immaculately fitted luxurious grandeur, so I wonder if I should patronise Henry Poole who enjoyed the royal patronage of that king, instead of Gieves & Hawkes, the current holders of royal warrants of appointment issued by HM the Queen, HRH the Duke of Edinburgh and HRH the Prince of Wales. For those who didn't realize, GV Rex was the last British monarch where the Frock coat ruled the day at the English court; when his son E VIII R ascended the throne, the cutaway replaced it at court, IIRC. Personally, I don't go much for the Duke of Windsor's image, which I consider rather light compared with the solid image of GV Rex. In any case, I lack the kind of figure a Dandy should have.

Any advice, please?

[Concordia]

George V's cutter retired in the winter of 2003, so you might do well to disregard the Royal Warrant when making your selection.

[HappyStroller]

Well, I'm sad to learn that, but isn't it a house tradition to pass on the techniques, etc., so that the firm can continue to service its regular clients and their family members?

I'm thinking of trying out Anderson & Shepherd for a DB dinner suit (single-stripe pants, etc.) too.

So for each of the 3 firms, there's at least one formal or semi-formal dress. Then each will also be asked to make a lounge suit.

This way, I can gauge which house is best so that in three years' time, I will know exactly which tailoring establishment to send my son for his wedding suit/s.

George V's cutter retired in the winter of 2003, so you might do well to disregard the Royal Warrant when making your selection.

[HappyStroller]

It's interesting to notice that two of the three firms on my list have LL CAP members - Mr Josh Byrne of Henry Poole (Cutter), Mr. John Hitchcock of Anderson & Sheppard (Cutter).

Well, basically my approach to those highly-reputed houses will be to let them impose their prefered house style whilst pretending to be a sartorially-ignorant customer. This way, I will really get to know exactly what they are good for w/o my own standards getting in the way.

[Concordia]

That's the best way to deal with Anderson's in any case. They have their own way of working and really don't like too much input from clients after the basic information is delivered (cloth, DB or SB, vents, etc.).

[bry2000]

My understanding is that Josh Byrnes may have left Poole. But there are other able cutters and tailors there to help you out.

[sartorius]

I have never used Poole but Gieves & Hawkes are first rate. PM me if you would like a name to contact.

Sartorius

[HappyStroller]

Thank you very much, Sartorius, for your kind offer, which I'll take up when the time comes.

I do wonder whether it's due to the tailoring skills and techniques which enabled George V to look so impressive, or will using more luxurious, heavier weight material, especially cashmere, do the trick. If I may describe the look I like, it's more like the suit is so properly ironed there's no wrinkle to be seen plus there's an image of stable three dimensional solidity (?) the wearer seems to project.

I have never used Poole but Gieves & Hawkes are first rate. PM me if you would like a name to contact.

Sartorius

[sartorius]

I suspect the solidity you're seeing is the result of the way the coat is constructed ("structured" as opposed to "soft" tailoring perhaps?).

[bluscuro]

We must remember that George V was fortunate enough to live and reign in the "Golden Age" of bespoke tailoring.

Fabric in the early twentieth century was certainly more robust , not only in terms of the micron count of the wool used to spin the yarn but also the weight of the finished material. 16oz cloth was more than likely the order of the day. Heavier still for winter !
It is only in the last twenty to thirty odd years that superfine wool has been developed to the point where we are now able to weave cloth of Super 180's designation and beyond (this, largly thanks to technogical advances as distinct from exponential improvements in the fineness of wool ).

To support the heavier outer cloth, a firmer internal structure would be called for. The canvas,haircloth,silecia,wadding,lining etc was all geared to a produce a more structured,military appearance . Also, if we were to perform an autopsy on a British made jacket from the mid 20's or 30's, I daresay we would be awestruck by the sheer amount of painstaking handstitching that went into the preparation of the canvas. This all adds presence and conveys an aura of grandeur and importance.

Bespoke tailoring in those days was the norm and there was an abundance of skilled craftsmen to perform the necessary operations. No such thing as RTW suits!

I have some old sepia images of my maternal grandfather taken with King George V and Queen Mary outside Windsor Castle in 1934 and , yes, judging from those images, it was the Golden Era of Tailoring! George V was a very dapper man.

bluscuro

[HappyStroller]

Dear Bluscuro

How very interesting to learn you have a 1934 image of HM G V and HM Q M together with your maternal grandfather! It would be wonderful if we could have the opportunity to look at it. Photos of His Majesty seems quite rare on the WWW.

It is difficult to find the kind of heavy worsted wool nowadays. I have not much choice but to substitute cashmere were I to make a jacket with a similar weight.

[Joshua Byrne]

I can confirm that I left Poole's at the very end of 2006. I would advise any mebers though that intend to buy a suit from them that they are an excellent company, and of all the people there the person I would advise to deal with would be Mr. Alan Alexander. He does not travel to America so for those who wish to undertake there fittings there I would suggest that either Mr. Philip Parker or Mr. Alex Cook the 2 cutters that travel to the states would be a better choice, as it is not good practice to have more than one person fitting a suit in its creation, and equally the person doing the fitting should also be the person carrying out the work on the garments.

[alden]

Dear Mr. Byrne

Welcome. Its always a pleasure to have LL CAP members intervene on the Forum. Your advice regarding Poole is greatly appreciated.

[jruley]

It is difficult to find the kind of heavy worsted wool nowadays. I have not much choice but to substitute cashmere were I to make a jacket with a similar weight.

Dear HS,

Since you are trying to replicate a historical style of garment, you might want to consider using the superfine and doeskin broadcloth produced by Abimelech Hainsworth in Yorkshire:

www.hainsworth.co.uk

This cloth weighs 11-12 oz per square yard, and is "teazled" to produce a fine velvety-feeling directional nap. I'm sure they'd be happy to send samples if you and your tailor would be interested.

Hope this is useful,

Jim Ruley

[HappyStroller]

Thank you, Jim, for the lead. However, if I were to pay a visit to Savile Row, I expect them to stock the appropriate kind of fabric for thebespoke suit or coat to be commissioned.