nailhead fabric

[the tailor]

I have had a couple of questions regarding 'nailhead' cloth from LL members.
So, hope this helps.
I have recently made this jacket in a Smith's nailhead for a client.
It is the jacket featured on my website, under the heading, 'lapel with a lot of roll'.
The client is much bigger than me around the chest and waist.
This jacket is ready for hand finishing except front button holes and the lapel hole that can be seen.
None of the linings have yet been felled, hence, the sleeve lining is causing the crease at sleeves.
Style and make up of this cloth is now easy to distinguish.
The sleeves on this jacket are only basted in.

[Chris Rimby]

Desmond,

I've heard it mentioned that nailhead cloth is a bit more porous than standard worsted, thus making it cooler to wear. Has this been your experience?

[manton]

I have never found nailhead to be porous. All of mine are just as tight as a plain weave (and in fact I think they are plain weaves; the pattern comes from alternating thread colors, not from a different weave).

[Chris Rimby]

Okay thanks. I didn't think it would make much difference. I just thought I read someone mention that one time in the LL archives.

[manton]

I believe that porousness comes as much from the yarn as from the weave. A porous cloth obviously has gaps between yarns. Thus, if the yarns were the same width and strength as ordinary worsted, the finished cloth would be weaker. So to make a porous cloth have the necessary strength and draping qualities, the yarns have to be thicker and tougher. More wool is used in the spinning, and they are twisted more tightly. In some hopsacks and frescos, the yarns are even 3x3 rather than 2x2. Then the cloth is woven into plain weave with those little gaps. The result is like a fine mesh, and the resulting cloth feels a bit rougher and scratchier.

[Chris Rimby]

Interesting. I didn't know that. I've heard you mention that fresco is pretty durable but I didn't know why. Now I see what you mean.

[the tailor]

Desmond,

I've heard it mentioned that nailhead cloth is a bit more porous than standard worsted, thus making it cooler to wear. Has this been your experience?

No, not to be fair.
I have never heard that, or experienced it.

[manton]

I am wearing a 13 ounce nailhead today, and it is tight as a drum. No light at all passes thorough it. I have 15 ounce fresco, on the other hand, that looks like mesh against the light.

[Chris Rimby]

Thanks Desmond. I was duped by a rumor!

manton, I'm very interested in heavyweight fresco. How does your 15 oz. fare on an average summer day?

[smoothjazzone]

Having worn a suit in the very 15 oz fabric in question -- fine when there is a cool breeze in the shade -- absolutely dreadful when hot, humid and calm

[Chris Rimby]

Thanks smoothjazzone.

I think this would work for me then. In Atlanta you have to drive everywhere...there's not a whole lot of outdoor city walking. Basically you go from your house to your car to your destination.

It sounds like heavy fresco would fare well in the Atlanta summer.