Matt,
A very handsome coat indeed. What a wonderful pattern. And you have set it out nicely with the white trousers.
My compliments to you and Mariano!
Michael
Some old tweed...
Matt,
The coat looks lovely on you. The colour is less blue than I thought. The waist suppression on this coat seems less than the ones you posted before. Is that right?
The coat looks lovely on you. The colour is less blue than I thought. The waist suppression on this coat seems less than the ones you posted before. Is that right?
no, the waist suppression is the same as the green one. the suit coats have substantially more. I think that the difference is almost 1.5 in from sportcoat to suitcoat.kolecho wrote:Matt,
The coat looks lovely on you. The colour is less blue than I thought. The waist suppression on this coat seems less than the ones you posted before. Is that right?
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luk-cha
Matt i agree with Alden that it looks great with the white trousers - also it does look like it has less waist suppresion from this picture as Kolecho stated.
this one certainly looks a lot more relaxed that your others. is it side or center vented?
this one certainly looks a lot more relaxed that your others. is it side or center vented?
side vented. the difference is really just in the cloth. if anythingthe green one is the most relaxed in real life.luk-cha wrote:Matt i agree with Alden that it looks great with the white trousers - also it does look like it has less waist suppresion from this picture as Kolecho stated.
this one certainly looks a lot more relaxed that your others. is it side or center vented?
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luk-cha
this one certainly looks a lot more relaxed that your others. is it side or center vented?[/quote]
side vented. the difference is really just in the cloth. if anythingthe green one is the most relaxed in real life.[/quote]
must just be the coloring then the blues and grey i just find very carming to the eye it would be great to see these kinds of patterns in fresco too
side vented. the difference is really just in the cloth. if anythingthe green one is the most relaxed in real life.[/quote]
must just be the coloring then the blues and grey i just find very carming to the eye it would be great to see these kinds of patterns in fresco too
Just a detail: look how the pattern (the coral line) matches perfectly between lapel – collar – shoulder. Viewed as a whole or examined under the magnifying glass, the jacket is very handsome in all respects. And what a beautiful cloth… a combination of colours that is the perfect alibi for a “city” tweed coat, in my opinion.
I think that this is an inspired choice of cloth.
Indeed, you were smart to choose from Rubinacci's store of vintage cloth in Naples ; I can't think of any other tailoring house which carries such a huge stock of vintage cloth collected over many years; access to such vintage cloth is a wonderful aspect of working with Rubinacci.
And ofcourse the Rubinaccis were orignally long time cloth merchants in Naples before opening London House with laboratorio Rubinacci developing the original Neapolitan silhouette and construction in the 1930s.
Moreover, I think that you got the best out of their master tailor; this silhouette is very harmonious and you look wonderfully comfortable yet elegant.
Infact, the silhouette they created for you is very reminiscent of an old Rubinacci coat, featured in Rubinacci's magazine (I wish I could find it right now) from maybe 50 years ago. It was very sporty looking, really wonderful; if I recall, it was worn with quite full tjrousers, and that made the look even more interesting.
I think that this quirky cloth really begins to embody what bespoke should be; the willing spirt to tap into the past for design, and color which is not the usual and no longer available today. The cloth elevates the coat, already wonderful, to a truly bespoke creation....
Like a fine, old antique Persian rug whose colors and yarn they just can't duplicate anymore.
Indeed, you were smart to choose from Rubinacci's store of vintage cloth in Naples ; I can't think of any other tailoring house which carries such a huge stock of vintage cloth collected over many years; access to such vintage cloth is a wonderful aspect of working with Rubinacci.
And ofcourse the Rubinaccis were orignally long time cloth merchants in Naples before opening London House with laboratorio Rubinacci developing the original Neapolitan silhouette and construction in the 1930s.
Moreover, I think that you got the best out of their master tailor; this silhouette is very harmonious and you look wonderfully comfortable yet elegant.
Infact, the silhouette they created for you is very reminiscent of an old Rubinacci coat, featured in Rubinacci's magazine (I wish I could find it right now) from maybe 50 years ago. It was very sporty looking, really wonderful; if I recall, it was worn with quite full tjrousers, and that made the look even more interesting.
I think that this quirky cloth really begins to embody what bespoke should be; the willing spirt to tap into the past for design, and color which is not the usual and no longer available today. The cloth elevates the coat, already wonderful, to a truly bespoke creation....
Like a fine, old antique Persian rug whose colors and yarn they just can't duplicate anymore.
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smoothjazzone
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Great choice Matt!!! Great colors and cut.
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luk-cha
that bottom pic looks quite short! i wish we could see the rear so as to check the balance
but it is interesting to see that there has not muched changed in all this time from these to matt's
but it is interesting to see that there has not muched changed in all this time from these to matt's
The first photo of Malaparte shows the spalla camicia. The second is a more structured "pagoda" shoulder probably of Neapolitan origin.
Neither of the two coats pictured is too short, its just that most people are used to seeing frocks on men instead of coats.
The tweed pictured below is one of my favorites and is similar to the one seen in the first Malaparte photo. I might try and get even closer to the picture in a Cloth Clu commission one day.
Neither of the two coats pictured is too short, its just that most people are used to seeing frocks on men instead of coats.
The tweed pictured below is one of my favorites and is similar to the one seen in the first Malaparte photo. I might try and get even closer to the picture in a Cloth Clu commission one day.
Ah, that's beautiful cloth, Michael! How old is that tweed?
I can't help but feel that the 2 photos of Malaparte embody what the original Neapolitan style and silhouette was.
Can anyone date those photos?
I think that Rubinacci would claim the second, bottom photo as the work of their own laboratorio; can anyone verify that with Mariano sometime? This photo is found in their magazine.
Indeed, this second photo looks to be the Neapolitan pagoda, or spalla convessa, shoulder treatment. It's stil being made in Naples today, accomplished through cut and sewing rather than padding alone. This shoulders construction is much more labor intensive than the spalla camicia, taking 30% more time to make.
Note the full trousers, and though still low cut, I think look spectacular. I don't know when the narrow, short Neapolitan trouser trend began. I'm sure Sig. Ambrosio would know their evolution.... But these fuller trousers look wonderful with that aggressively fitted coat.
The first photo with the bold plaid is absolutely great; Malaparte is no shrinking violet in his choice of cloth and decidedly aggressive masculine stance here. Note the breast patch pocket and pocket square. This photo appears to be taken in Africa...?
I can't help but feel that the 2 photos of Malaparte embody what the original Neapolitan style and silhouette was.
Can anyone date those photos?
I think that Rubinacci would claim the second, bottom photo as the work of their own laboratorio; can anyone verify that with Mariano sometime? This photo is found in their magazine.
Indeed, this second photo looks to be the Neapolitan pagoda, or spalla convessa, shoulder treatment. It's stil being made in Naples today, accomplished through cut and sewing rather than padding alone. This shoulders construction is much more labor intensive than the spalla camicia, taking 30% more time to make.
Note the full trousers, and though still low cut, I think look spectacular. I don't know when the narrow, short Neapolitan trouser trend began. I'm sure Sig. Ambrosio would know their evolution.... But these fuller trousers look wonderful with that aggressively fitted coat.
The first photo with the bold plaid is absolutely great; Malaparte is no shrinking violet in his choice of cloth and decidedly aggressive masculine stance here. Note the breast patch pocket and pocket square. This photo appears to be taken in Africa...?
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luk-cha
i am sorry if by saying short i ment it in a negative way i personally perfer a shorter than normal jkt - i have seeing excessively long coats which you find on the majority of people.
Alden i love your tweed fabric too you dont see many patterns like that now - what kind of tweed is it and also what is the weight?
Alden i love your tweed fabric too you dont see many patterns like that now - what kind of tweed is it and also what is the weight?
The pictures of Malaparte are likely mid 1920s. A short synopsis of the writer's life can be found here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curzio_Malaparte
The tweed pictured above is a piece that LL members were able to acquire a few years ago from the last stock of 700 gms cheviot tweed made by the legendary Hunter's of Brora. LL member Mr Hayes made a beautiful overcoat from the same cloth that is visible in the photojournal.
The tweed pictured above is a piece that LL members were able to acquire a few years ago from the last stock of 700 gms cheviot tweed made by the legendary Hunter's of Brora. LL member Mr Hayes made a beautiful overcoat from the same cloth that is visible in the photojournal.
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