I was chatting with Salvatore Ambrosi last week and he asked if it would be possible for me to take some pictures wearing their pants. I must say that taking pictures of pants is much more difficult than taking them of jackets. Certainly, the model is no professional and I hope that at least some justice was done to their wonderful creations. I apologize if none was.
The first three pictures are of a grey pleated whipcord that they made for me while I was in Naples. The second two are of a flat front linen pair and the last four are detail shots. Of particular note is the last detail shot of the cuff. When Dr. Teplitz had some pants made, he opted for a buttoned cuff. I, instead, opted for a "pleated" cuff. It is a feature that is not visible from the outside, but the trouser leg is pleated into the cuff of the pant like in the shoulder of a Neapolitan shirt. It is an interesting detail that I feel adds to the beautiful line at the bottom of the pants. Also, remember that one of the pairs is linen, so the drape that you see in wool should not be expected.
Once again, I want to thank Alden for suggesting Ambrosi to all of us, and to say how happy I am with their work.
Here is a link to the pictures in the photo album...http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/gallery/album38
Ambrosi of Naples Pant Pictures
My goodness. What I have been missing. I don't care what a pleated cuff is, I just want to say I have one.
-
tteplitzmd
Yes, I opted for the button cuff. If you go with this, make sure whomever presses your pants knows about it, to avoid crushing the two buttons hidden. I was advised specifically about this by Salvatore.
In looking at a number of different LL members' Ambrosi pants, they do have a distinctive taper, to my eye. Very pleasing for someone of my short stature. Also, Ed Hayes, note the width of the cuffs, you might not be allowed to wear these in your NYC maker's atelier wtihout being admonished. Ambrosi and son rule, in my opinion. Accept no substitutes.
In looking at a number of different LL members' Ambrosi pants, they do have a distinctive taper, to my eye. Very pleasing for someone of my short stature. Also, Ed Hayes, note the width of the cuffs, you might not be allowed to wear these in your NYC maker's atelier wtihout being admonished. Ambrosi and son rule, in my opinion. Accept no substitutes.
Ed,edhayes wrote:My goodness. What I have been missing. I don't care what a pleated cuff is, I just want to say I have one.
YOU don't???
Gabe
-
filangieri
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 5:17 pm
- Location: Italy
- Contact:
The "calzoni napoletani" (Neapolitan pants) made by our best "pantalonai" are just as crucial to the overall elegance of the customer's attire as the look and fit of the (suit/odd) jacket.
Most of Napoli's best tailors outsource the making of the pants but are extremely secretive about the name of the artisan, but the problem is that most of them don't ousource to champions like Ambrosi, often resulting in great jackets ruined by sub-standard pants.
Others prefer to hire in-house pant-makers, and I find it logical that if the Maestro is capable to constantly oversee the entire "su misura" process - and assuming that the attention to detail of the "giacca" and "pantaloni" is equally high - the ensemble will logically be more balanced, armonic and pleasing to the eye.
Most of Napoli's best tailors outsource the making of the pants but are extremely secretive about the name of the artisan, but the problem is that most of them don't ousource to champions like Ambrosi, often resulting in great jackets ruined by sub-standard pants.
Others prefer to hire in-house pant-makers, and I find it logical that if the Maestro is capable to constantly oversee the entire "su misura" process - and assuming that the attention to detail of the "giacca" and "pantaloni" is equally high - the ensemble will logically be more balanced, armonic and pleasing to the eye.
No matter how hard I try, somebody comes up with something I never heard of before.
I thought I was doing pretty well with a lapped seam on the side and hand stitching on the pockets.
I don't think I can wear very tapered pants.
I thought I was doing pretty well with a lapped seam on the side and hand stitching on the pockets.
I don't think I can wear very tapered pants.
I would wear tapered pants but I have protruding calves. Really messes up the line.
-
Guest
Nice fitting bone pants and lots of attention grabbing handwork. Yet another masterpiece clothing item to your collection. Nice stuff lammatt!
On behalf of Ambrosi I would like to thank the LL members for their kind comments regarding his work. In know that both he and his son have enjoyed working with you very much.
For the benefit of those who might think that a Neapolitan trouser maker only makes fitted Neapolitan trousers, Ambrosi will be bringing a selection of my own trousers for visitors to see. They include high back dress trousers, full English dress trousers, and sports trousers with and without pleats (including some very loud Tartans, bring your Persols!)
I second vigorously filangeri's comments regarding the importance of stunning and comfortable trousers. Do your bespoke coat justice and pair it with a great trouser always.
Cheers
M Alden
For the benefit of those who might think that a Neapolitan trouser maker only makes fitted Neapolitan trousers, Ambrosi will be bringing a selection of my own trousers for visitors to see. They include high back dress trousers, full English dress trousers, and sports trousers with and without pleats (including some very loud Tartans, bring your Persols!)
I second vigorously filangeri's comments regarding the importance of stunning and comfortable trousers. Do your bespoke coat justice and pair it with a great trouser always.
Cheers
M Alden
I saw him today, I was very impressed with him. He is stylish, charming and fit. He was very well dressed in a terrific sports jacket with a "Naples" shoulder.
I bought two pair of pants. One was twill in a kind of taupe that apparently lots of other people bought and the other was a very lighweight and light colored grey.
I basically told him to make them like a well dressed man of my age(59)would wear there except to bear in mind that I have much thicker legs then Italian men have-and probably a thicker stomach too.
The pants have a great deal of handwork and are beautiful. I have never paid anywere near that much for pants and I look forward to the results
I bought two pair of pants. One was twill in a kind of taupe that apparently lots of other people bought and the other was a very lighweight and light colored grey.
I basically told him to make them like a well dressed man of my age(59)would wear there except to bear in mind that I have much thicker legs then Italian men have-and probably a thicker stomach too.
The pants have a great deal of handwork and are beautiful. I have never paid anywere near that much for pants and I look forward to the results
Eddie, are you referrring to the Holland & Sherry tannish/medium brown color calvary twills? If so, I ordered those as well. I was interested in many of the colored winter cottons, but at the end of the day, decided to play it safe with basics (the twills plus grey worsted flannels). I could not get myself to pay that price for cotton trousers. At least not yet. The LL has a way of breaking my psychological price barriers over time.
Iammatt - thanks for posting these - it is great to be able to inspect top quality workmanship like this. The pleats are an intriguing feature and it is obvious how they enhance the line of the leg.
I am about to commission two pairs of linen trousers myself and would be very interested to know the type and weight of cloth you used for yours?
I am about to commission two pairs of linen trousers myself and would be very interested to know the type and weight of cloth you used for yours?
-
tteplitzmd
Bry2000, I succumbed to the siren song, and got my cotton Ambrosi trousers last year:
]
A heavy Italian cotton, soft finished I supplied Ambrosi with.
A different pair now in burnt orange (?) Italian worsted, I supplied. Note the contrast thread color in the stitching and the "dual" small pockets below the waistband (I forget what they are called), a Neapolitan conceit I am told:
[/img]
[img]
]
A heavy Italian cotton, soft finished I supplied Ambrosi with.
A different pair now in burnt orange (?) Italian worsted, I supplied. Note the contrast thread color in the stitching and the "dual" small pockets below the waistband (I forget what they are called), a Neapolitan conceit I am told:
[/img]
[img]I do think it is that holland sherry tan/brown twill. I also could not imagine paying that much for cotton trousers.
I told him to put every detail on there that he could think of so lets see what happens.
I told him to put every detail on there that he could think of so lets see what happens.
lol Ed. If you really want your moneys worth, I just received a pair of cream gabardines and you can SEE every single detail becasue of the fabric. I must say that the finishing is superb with every seam allowance being almost perfecty parallel to the seam. Believe me, you can see them. Boxers required.edhayes wrote:I do think it is that holland sherry tan/brown twill. I also could not imagine paying that much for cotton trousers.
I told him to put every detail on there that he could think of so lets see what happens.
-
- Information
-
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests