odd jacket for summer

[Martin Stall]

Actually, I wasn't really thinking about that. But we create our own laws, don't we?

Just mentioned it because Sartorius himself suggested it, and his tailor had objections I didn't really agree with.

It isn't necessarily ideal, but if thin enough it can be worn in warm weather. I wouldn't take it to India though.

[sartorius]

Thanks Martin.

I think he meant that the nap needs a lot of brushing, and tends to attract dust, which together can leave a jacket looking rather a mess. I've got some very nice cord samples from Holland & Sherry, but from handling them they do seem to crease quite easily.

I've ordered some other samples based on recommendations posted here last week, so will try to post some photos when I receive them.

[DD MacDonald]

I should think that a fine needle-cord would be great for spring, fall , and everything but the sultry period of summer. Its mostly a matter of color and weight. As a general rule, cords are pretty wind-proof and I'd bet that to get very fine cording there is some real twist in the yarns and tightness in the weave that eliminates the porosity that one finds with linens and frescoes.

DDM

[sartorius]

I've received today a load of samples from the Glorious 12th bunch. They're all marvellous, but also I notice, 11oz in weight. do people think that could be a little heavy for summer wear?

[bry2000]

Depends on where you live. The cloths in the Glorious 12th book would be too heavy for me to wear in NYC.

[tteplitzmd]

I have two jackets from P&H Glorious 12th, and I think they are suited to early fall, or late spring, not summer, at least in the Washington, DC area. I do use these jackets for travel quite a bit. Fabulous coloring, hard wearing, classical patterns.

[DD MacDonald]

Sartorius - Hardy's Riviera may be your answer.

[sartorius]

I should think that a fine needle-cord would be great for spring, fall , and everything but the sultry period of summer. Its mostly a matter of color and weight.



DDM - an inspired suggestion if I may say so. I found a beautiful light brown, almost toffee needle cord RTW jacket today which I've asked my tailors to cloth match. will see what they can source.

One question though - the tailors suggested that because cord doens't have any give in it, a bespoke jacket would normally be made a little bigger, otherwise it would be constricting. This got me thinking about whether cord is a fabric which actually lends itself to bespoke. does anyone have any thoughts on how cord would go on a bespoke garment? Never thought I'd say this, but I'm wondering whether a good MTM version might actually be a better option...

[DD MacDonald]

Sartorius - sure if you can find the same cloth in MTM, go for it. But if you have or are devloping a bespoke habit then I doubt that you'd find it satisfactory. Bespoke garments have a very personal and special quirkiness. Fine cordouroy has great character, combining the depth of color of velvets with some of the rumple-y structure of linen (when it is really fine). I'd be thinking patch pockets.

Once you dial in fit, it really becomes about the cloth and your vision for how you want to present yourself. If you like to cloth, go for it. It's all a grand experiment

DDM

[whittaker]

For very light weight, the P&H Solway book looks tantalizing.

Thank you, Concordia.I had a chance to inspect this book today. There are some gorgeous fabrics here, including a triple grey on grey windowpane that almost tempted me. Quite unique. It was the subtle navy herringbone with the pale blue windowpane that snared me. It will be perfect for August weekends and wearing to Italy.

[sartorius]

On reflection, I am very taken with the idea of a tan or beige herringbone in a lightish weight (there is a good example in the latest Hackett catalogue, which I tried on in the store - it feels like an 8 or 10oz).

Can anyone recommend a bunch to look at for this sort of cloth?