What follows is a trip report and some photos of my weekend trip in Rome on Jan 27. You'll need to excuse my enthusiasm; this is my first visit to Rome, and I am a bit overwhelmed by the whole experience....
Mimmo Siviglia
My first destination after I arrived in Rome is to head to the atelier of Mimmo Siviglia. I was greeted warmly by Francesca as well as the Gentleman himself. I explained that I have heard many positive things about his craftsmanship and would like to experience it myself. We started with the fitting and measurement process. Throughout this, Francesca and Mimmo both discussed at length between themselves (sometimes so passionately they seemed to be arguing, as I can't understand Italian), about what would fit me most. I am impressed by the amount of attention and precision that they dedicated to the fitting task. These are people who care immensely about their craftsmanship.
The whole experience was quite pleasurable because the fitting and selection of collars and cuffs were intersped with the selection of fabrics. In other words, we didn't go through a sequential checklist of (A) get measurements (B) select collars (C) select cuffs, (D) select fabrics. The whole process was unstructured; we went back and forth; and had interesting discussions about shirtmaking.
The fabrics in the atelier are incredible -- very nice to touch. Although I told Francesca initially that I wasn't very particular about fabrics, I ended selecting high-end fabrics such as Riva.
I chose these fabrics: (a) white twill, (b) thin red stripes against white background, (c) medium blue plain weave, (d) darker blue plain weave. Both the blue fabrics were made exclusively for them.
I spent about 90 minutes in the atelier. At no point did I feel rushed. They took their time to explain whenever I had a question. They usually close early on Saturday but are available by appointment.
Mimmo Siviglia is shirtmakiing at its apex. Although I have no experience with other shirtmakers or brands like Kiton or Borrelli, I just cannot imagine how the process and experience could be better than this.
Francesca's husband arrived towards the end of the appointment. They kindly offered to take me to my hotel, as they were headed home in the same vicinity. When I thought that I should find something to eat first before checking in, the family brought me to one of their favorite restaurants near the hotel, and Francesca personally introduced me to the owner. I was appreciative of how they treated me. And I also had a fabulous meal.
St Regis Grand
Another pleasant experience here.
St Regis Grand is both a hotel of incredible grandeur and intimacy, with only 100+ rooms in a stately building. I was upgraded to the top floor in one of their famous Imperial Rooms, and escorted by the person who checked me in to my room.
The only possible downside is that it is not as close to the spanish steps or via venetto as other hotels. Nonetheless, the short walk to these areas did not bother me, and I liked the seclusion and the privacy. I personally would say that if you love nice hotels, don't even think about the Westin Excelsior, the Marriott or the Intercontinental, unless you have a liking for large tour groups and tour busses. Other beautiful hotels worth your consideration are Hotel Hassler, at the top of the spanish steps and Hotel de Russie, which has a very lovely courtyard in the middle of the building.
Even during the low season, there were very few guests at my hotel. I never shared an elevator with another person, aside from the person who checked me in. I think I saw about 4 other guests during my stay there.
When I stepped into the reception area to check out, I was immediately addressed by name by the gentleman at the front desk. He was delighted when I mentioned that I would return the following weekend, and happily arranged a reservation for me, with a confirmed upgrade. He asked when I would be arriving, and when I let him know the time, he said he would be around and would handle my check-in personally.
Make sure you check out the historic lift if you stay at the St Regis (also filmed in the Talented Mr Ripley), pictued below. It was lots of fun.
Photos of shops in Rome
Most of these shops are near the Spanish steps. Aside from Siviglia's shirts, I bought a tie, a scarf and a pair of Ferragamo Tramezzas at 50% off (EUR 245). It was their last pair and it was my size - I felt incredibly lucky.
What is great about Rome, I think, is that it is probably the only major city in the world with more shops selling MEN'S CLOTHING than shops selling women's clothing. There are so many small shops. There are lots of really nice, tasteful clothes that can be bought without spending a fortune. I think part of the fun of shopping in Rome is taking a chance on the smaller shops and lesser known brands! With such an abundence of tasteful clothing at affordable prices (unlike other countries), it is no wonder most people dress very well. You will find that Romans prefer the 'carefree aristocratic' look. Hence beautiful casual shirts and cashmere sweaters and exquisite leather goods. Very few people dresses grunge or bohemian, and I applaud them for this! I saw a beautiful pair of Santoni's -- dark brown suede, double monk strap ala John Lobb with a matching belt. Alas, it was about EUR 350 for the shoes alone, and it wasn't on sale, so I passed.
Food
Food was delicious. Lots of nice restaurants at via Della Croche, just off the Corso, near the spanish steps shopping area. Also one of the restaurants at Piazza di Spanga (also near the spanish steps shopping area) serves a divine tiramisu (can't remember the name of the restaurant, it is the one which looked the nicest).
Transportation
Most parts of the city area is reachable by foot. I did not go to the Forum, or the Vatican this time. These places probably require a taxi ride. I walked everywhere, I only used a cab from the hotel to the train station (EUR 5 each way). Taxis are affordable, and easily accessible.
Misc photos
I don't usually like taking photos or having my photo taken, but I made an exception for Rome.
Rome is a city which is incredibly easy to know and to love.
Addendum
Additional photos
Be forewarned, the store on the left is Expensive. Luckily, American Express is just a few steps away. Could this be the American Express filmed in The Talented Mr Ripley?
Meredith: "Because my friend Mr. Greenleaf, Signor Greenleaf and I,
are on a little spending spree. We're behaving very badly. Oh, I love Italian money. So dark. Doesn't it make you feel guilty?"
The Spanish Steps
The Trevi Fountains
The St Regis Grand, exterior
Another view of room #438
Given that I will return to Rome again this weekend, I'd love to hear suggestions on interesting places to eat, especially near the Spanish steps area. Also, any suggestions on stores carrying nice leathergoods, shoes and accessories (scarves, ties, socks) would be great. I am not necessarily looking for name-brand items or luxurious items but stores selling value for money and with a high taste level. Thanks in advance. Anyone in Rome this weekend who want to meet up for coffee? I'm not used to travelling alone!
