Shoulder puckering

[gefinzi]

I have several good suits with a problem I will call shoulder puckering. At the upper part of the sleeve, just under the shoulder pad, the sleeves tend to "dent" inward. Pulling down on the sleeve makes this "dent" disappear. (I'm not talking about the "puckering" at the sleeve-head which is a normal appearance for some Neapolitan jackets...this problem is below the spot where the sleeve meets the body of the suit).

I recall reading somewhere this problem can result if the point-to-point is too narrow, but I'm not sure that is the problem. The suits in question are a Barbera and an Oxxford, both with light shoulder padding. The point-to-point seems fine on the jackets without any other signs of pulling or tightness. Additionally, the point-to-point is at least as wide as other jackets I own, like RLPL, without any puckering. Could the size of my deltoids have anything to do with this? I work out but I wouldn't say I have unusual muscle bulk.

Can someone identify the problem? If so, is there a solution?

Thanks in advance.

[Admin]

To some degree there is always a bit of dimpling in the upper sleeve with natural or very lightly padded shoulders. This is especially true of hand sewn shoulders where the sleevehead has been eased around its circumference with needle, thread, steam and iron. We tend to like seeing it.

Is there a way to have a photo of what you are seeing?

M Alden

[Martin Stall]

It depends on how pronounced the dent is. Like mr Alden said, a slight bit of 'life', I'd call it, can be acceptable. Too much though is a fault, which is caused by the sleeve head being too high. This can easily be remedied by any skilled tailor. Can you show us some images?

[alden]

Does the shoulder dimple in this horizontal direction as opposed to falling vertically?

Hello Martin,

Nice to see you and thanks for the input. How would you diagnose the problem above?

Cheers

M Alden

[gefinzi]

I'm afraid I live in technological darkness and don't have a digital camera, but the picture posted by Mr. Alden is the problem. A horizontal dimple or dent, perhaps a bit more noticeable on my coats than the posted image. It is enough that I find it detracts from the jacket's appearance, and would have it repaired it can be done in a safe and cost-effective way.

[tteplitzmd]

Martin, please can you describe what the remedy would involve? What would the tailor do?

Terry Teplitz

[Martin Stall]

I'm afraid I live in technological darkness and don't have a digital camera, but the picture posted by Mr. Alden is the problem. A horizontal dimple or dent, perhaps a bit more noticeable on my coats than the posted image. It is enough that I find it detracts from the jacket's appearance, and would have it repaired it can be done in a safe and cost-effective way.

Hm... at least the technological darkness doesn't exclude internet
Anyway, the solution is quite simple, but it does involve taking out the sleeve, so there is a fair bit of work required. Perfectly safe-that is, if you're tailor is worth his salt.
After taking out the sleeve, all that needs to be done is lower the sleeve-head, similar to the pencil line on the pattern you see here:



This is probably the amount that would have to be taken out of the sleeve-head mr Alden showed us. But then again, if the wearer likes the look, a dent such as shown could be considered acceptable. Myself, I prefer a clean-looking sleeve, though.

[gefinzi]

Thank you so much for the input. This forum is invaluable for these matters.
Will making the suggested change/repair result is a shorter sleeve? One of my coats has buttonholes cut in the sleeves which wil limit sleeve-lengthening.

[Martin Stall]

Thank you so much for the input. This forum is invaluable for these matters.
Will making the suggested change/repair result is a shorter sleeve? One of my coats has buttonholes cut in the sleeves which wil limit sleeve-lengthening.

You're very welcome. It won't do anything to the sleeve length, as it is only the top of the sleeve that will be lowered: the sleeve itself won't be raised, as the crucial points, namely the little notch on the left, and the 'step' on the right, will stay where they are relative to the armhole.