Natural shoulder versus ...

[Guest]

Well, I can speak about my (small) experience.

The armhole size is fixed when the tailor cut the fabric. Every operation after that is at risk; I have varied the armhole size coat after coat, but never after the first fitting; of course if you do not want to recut it ...

[Leonard Logsdail]

Thank you Leonard. Am I correct then that the best course is to get it riight before the first fitting?

At measurement time the length of the coat is, of course, discussed and the tailor attempts to get it spot on at that time. THat said, the tailor being human, mistakes can be made, but none that can't be rectified at the first fitting, unless he has really messed up and the coat comes in 2" too long or short. At that point it's a new coat.

One piece of advice I can give when being measured by a tailor for the first time is always wear a jacket )you would be surprised how many do not) This give the tailor the oppportunity to see if the jacket fits, or not and neccesary adjustments can then be noted.

Leonard

[Leonard Logsdail]

Thank you Leonard. Am I correct then that the best course is to get it riight before the first fitting?

At measurement time the length of the coat is, of course, discussed and the tailor attempts to get it spot on at that time. THat said, the tailor being human, mistakes can be made, but none that can't be rectified at the first fitting, unless he has really messed up and the coat comes in 2" too long or short. At that point it's a new coat.

One piece of advice I can give when being measured by a tailor for the first time is always wear a jacket )you would be surprised how many do not) This give the tailor the oppportunity to see if the jacket fits, or not and neccesary adjustments can then be noted.

Leonard

[Nexus]

Here some pictures of the very beautiful 'manica a camicie' shoulders, meaning shirt sleeve. If you look at the pictures and the way the shoulders/sleeves are made, you can see the resemblance to a shirt's shoulder. Its soft shoulder gives extreme lightweight comfort and follows your shoulders beautifully. I think its great!

These are two Sartoria Raffaele Caruso suits.

[T4phage]

Welkom Nexus bij London Lounge!

Very good to see you here, and we hope you enjoy it.

Your Raffaello Caruso suits are quite nice indeed, I believe them to be one of the best bargains in RTW Italian suitings. A note regarding the 'spalla camica': the version rendered by Caruso tend to be a bit more padded. The bespoke I have seen have minimal, if any at all; truly a 'shirt' jacket that feels and wears like a shirt.

Maybe Giona or Michael can also elucidate.

[Guest]

In my knowledge the best done Spalla Camicia implies no padding in the shoulder. There can be some minimal wadding along the shoulder, but the padding on the edge should not be there.

Additionaly, In the traditional Neapolitan style, the armhole is smaller, and a larger sleeve make the famous "ripples" effect.

My northen-italian tailor does this Spalla Camicia (I have one in progress), but it does have a "cleaner" look.

Giona.