Brioni--what's the fuss?

[kirsch]

I tried on a Brioni suit yesterday...

What's the big fuss about it? I did not think it fit well at all. I look at the new Bond film and see it fitting Daniel Craig beautifully. Why not me? I'm taking it his was bespoke?

I thought Isaia fit much better...

Agree/disagree/comments?

[Richieg]

I would agree. I tried on Brioni and Kiton at the Neimans in Atlanta but neither one fit that great. The fabrics are very nice but the suits are overrated IMO.

[Chris Rimby]

I had the same experience with a Sartoria Attolini sportcoat. Didn't fit well at all. All this at bespoke prices. Madness I say!!

[kirsch]

Chris,

Where did you try on an Attolini? From pictures (at least), those look amazing! I'd like to find out where I may try one on.

[Chris Rimby]

Chris,

Where did you try on an Attolini? From pictures (at least), those look amazing! I'd like to find out where I may try one on.

I bought a sportcoat from www.shopthefinest.com. I agree...they look great in pictures and probably fit great if your body shape is right. Mine is on ebay right now (40R).

[kirsch]

That's my size, too (in most Italian coats). Can you send me a link to it?

[zegnamtl]

IIt is a very personal thing,
I love Kiton, my brother hates them.
Some people swear by the structure of Brioni,
you enjoy the Iasia, I am indifferent to both.
To each his own, there is plenty to choose from!

[Chris Rimby]

That's my size, too (in most Italian coats). Can you send me a link to it?

Sure:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... &rd=1&rd=1

[Mark Seitelman]

I tried on a Brioni suit yesterday...

What's the big fuss about it? I did not think it fit well at all. I look at the new Bond film and see it fitting Daniel Craig beautifully. Why not me? I'm taking it his was bespoke?

I thought Isaia fit much better...

Agree/disagree/comments?

Quick answer: Brioni is very, very well marketed.

Its connection to the recent Bond films has been an incredible marketing coup. The general public from people who don't own a suit to those who can buy many luxury suits perceive Brioni as the "best suit." After all, James Bond wears it.

Also, Brioni does a fair amount of print advertising in upscale publications. I think that it does the most advertising of the luxury brands.

Another benefit of its marketing is that women know the brand and think that it's the best. Therefore, a good number of wives steer their husbands to Brioni.

Brioni sponsored a very good book on James Bond's clothes. I believe that the title was "The Suited Hero." The essays by some notables are very good, and the pictures are excellent.

There is also a James Bond website which has a few articles about what Bond would have worn and where he would have shopped. (Sorry, I don't have the cite handy.) It discusses the books which I understand do not state where Bond bought his clothes; only the villains' clothes are mentioned in the books (e.g., Anderson & Sheppard). It also discusses the film clothes.

Essentially, the James Bond producers turned to Brioni since Brioni would provide the clothes for free. I am also guessing that there were other considerations, such as a hefty payment to the producers for the right to advertise that Brioni dresses Bond. This is also the case with the other products which are prominently placed in the films.

According to the costume designer who switched to Brioni from Savile Row bespoke tailors, a Savile Row house did not have the manufacturing capacity to turn-out 50 suits for a film. (Many of these are duplicates and triplicates which get destroyed in the stunts.) She claims that Brioni has the capacity. However, in one nod to Old England, the Brioni suits are made from English cloth including Holland & Sherry.

Therefore, Bond is now a MTM hero rather than a bespoke hero.

Of course, Daniel Craig's suits were custom fitted for him, and there would be a tailor on the set. He is built very well which helps alot.

Since Brioni is a RTW garment it either fits you well or not. The same holds for its MTM which is not made by Brioni. According to Tashae of Oxxford who used to sell Brioni at Bergdorf, Brioni fits most men well. It is fuller cut than Kiton.

I personally was never attracted to Brioni. I have never tried-on one, and I have never visited the store although it was across the street from my usual haunt, Oxxford.

In any event, Brioni has a good amount of machine work. Its lapels and collars used to be hand padded. Now they are machine made.

Perhaps the James Bond producers would consider having Bond switch to Oxxford?

[kirsch]

Mr. Seitelman,

You said:

The same holds for its MTM which is not made by Brioni

What do you mean by this? I thought Brioni did do MTM.

--chris

[Mark Seitelman]

The MTM Brioni would be based on the RTW patterns. Essentially, the stock pattern would be changed to suit the customer.

How much would the pattern be changed? I cannot answer.

I'm assuming that as with most MTM products you should pretty much fit the RTW model because the RTW will be a jumping-off point for the MTM pattern.

I believe that Brioni's suits (RTW and MTM) are made by D'Avenza in Italy. I don't think that Brioni owns its manufacturing facilities.

According to Flusser's book, Brioni's store in Rome offers bespoke made in-house. I think that a member said that bespoke is also offered in Brioni's Milan outpost.

I believe that the Brioni product offered in the USA is solely RTW and MTM.

Again, I'm not a Brioni expert.

[mathew]

Brioni have had their own manufacturing facility for RTW and MTM in Penne for many years. They also have their own tailoring school there.

[Mark Seitelman]

Brioni have had their own manufacturing facility for RTW and MTM in Penne for many years. They also have their own tailoring school there.

Thanks. I stand corrected.

As to the initial question of why the fuss, Brioni like any brand or tailor has its fans and detractors. E.g., Anderson & Sheppard has its legions of fans.

The difference is that the Brioni marketing has been so brillant that "the man on the street" wants a Brioni suit.

[Gruto]

There is only one answer to Brioni and others who try to carry the tailor craft to industrial production: Industry is the root of all ugliness. [O. W.]

[yachtie]

I have to agree with Mr.Seitelman. It's all marketing. RTW at bespoke pricing means that there are alot of people out there that have a very 'interesting' idea of the connection between value and price. Neither my wife nor I understand that value proposition, where the "label" is worth more than the workmanship. According to her , it's even worse with women's clothing than it is with men's RTW.