Functional Sleeve Buttons

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

Aristide
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Wed Nov 29, 2006 11:54 pm

After reading the "Flared Sleeves" thread, I got to thinking about the number of bottom-most sleeve buttons I've seen left unbottoned, which tends to create a somewhat "flared" appearance. In discussing thiswith a friend, it was mentioned that leaving the last button un-bottoned was an affectation, and (to my friend) to be avoided. I disagreed, replying that not all buttons on the suit jacket are buttoned, mostly due to convention, if not function. Any opinions on either side of the debate?
JamesT1
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Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:40 am

Personally, I like to leave them buttoned, not only because I find it somewhat gaudy to leave it undone, but for those who don't know about tailoring, it looks like a button fell off of the coat.
zjpj
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Thu Nov 30, 2006 2:59 am

In my experience, the only people who seem to have them undone are salesmen at expensive department stores and boutiques.

It looks sloppy to my eye on a suit. I suppose you could do it on a sport jacket worn without a tie for a more casual look and relaxed feel. But that you've given it thought at all suggests it would be a bit of an affectation. Style shouldn't really be planned, it should happen naturally. That's not to say we don't coordinate our colors and textures and patterns and so on. But this can have the effect of crossing the line from "classic style" to "trying too hard." Then again, many of the classic style icons have been pictured doing this, so what do I know?
Cufflink79
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Thu Nov 30, 2006 10:11 pm

Gentlemen:

I must make a confession.

I have the guilty pleasure of leaving one button undone on my right arm. :twisted:

Best Regards,

Cufflink79
Dragon
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Fri Dec 01, 2006 2:31 am

I think leaving a few buttons undone can change the sleeve silouette and create a more relaxed look, so I do it from time to time.
luk-cha

Fri Dec 01, 2006 2:48 am

i used too but now i dont, i dont feel it will make any difference if you do or dont just personal taste
Sebastian Tombs
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Fri Dec 01, 2006 12:43 pm

I think it's one of the most vulgar things one could do. If not an ostentation altogether.
DD MacDonald
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Fri Dec 01, 2006 2:08 pm

Since this thread is heating up a bit, I'll throw my lot in with Cufflink and easily admit to leaving a sleeve button undone on an odd jacket, though never a suit jacket and not all of the time. I just dont think that its a big thing.

DDM
Solitarias
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Sat Dec 02, 2006 10:51 am

I tend to open the 1st and 3rd buttons....
HappyStroller
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Mon Dec 04, 2006 10:19 am

Being squarely pro-utilitarian, I believe in functionable buttons and buttonholes.

Therefore my sleeve buttons are really there in case of tire puncture or to come to the rescue of a lady who has accidentally dropped her precious diamong ring in a shallow pond outdoors in late Autumn, Winter or early Spring.

Even the concealed lapel button is there in case of emergency when a sudden cold wind starts blowing when one is walking along the street in Winter or in the evenings in San Francisco.

In case of sudden winds or cold temperature high up on a mountain resort, all the breast buttons on the jacket had better be functionable, too.

This way helps me stretch my money (Yuan, Dollar, Pound, etc.).
Arpey
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Mon Dec 04, 2006 3:42 pm

An affectation.
Those suits that have functional buttons remained closed. Better yet, the Oxxfords owned do not even have functional buttons as they are a stylish anachronism that adds needless cost to a modern suit.
Agreed that a concealed lapel button is convenient BUT sleeve buttons in case of tire puncture?, Who changes a tire in a suit coat? Get a smock or lab coat and put it in the trunk.
Costi
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Mon Dec 04, 2006 7:17 pm

With apologies to those who think otherwise, I believe the notion that working sleeve buttonholes might actually be useful is a little far-fetched. If this were not the case, an undone sleeve button might suggest the person opened it for a purpose before and then, with nonchalance, simply ommited to button it back. But this is not a realistic scenario and therefore the opposite effect is created, that one has carefully planned to leave an impression of casualness.
Admitting there could be situations in which a gentleman might undo his sleeve buttons and roll up the coat sleeves, they would be extremely rare. Add to the picture the probability of the same gentleman honestly forgetting to button them back and it becomes clear how likely it is open sleeve buttons might be attributed to chance.
However, for the sake of thorough honesty in all details of a handcrafted garment, I think working buttonholes are entirely appropriate on all coats/jackets. Besides the different look of fake buttonholes (because the stitching is different), I admit to having an irrational bias against them; and, since I am the only one to know mine are of the working kind, I don’t hesitate to ask for them.
HappyStroller
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Wed Dec 06, 2006 10:21 am

Well, my jackets have functionable sleeve buttons only because I really believe in being always prepared for some contingency when there is a need to roll up the sleeves.

Even all the front buttons on a DB jacket should be arranged in two vertical columns so that the inner buttonholes are functionable ones.

But rest assure I am not trying to impose my personal standards on any one else. I will totally respect others for dressing in other ways.
Mark Seitelman
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Wed Dec 06, 2006 2:43 pm

Arpey wrote:An affectation.
Those suits that have functional buttons remained closed. Better yet, the Oxxfords owned do not even have functional buttons as they are a stylish anachronism that adds needless cost to a modern suit.
Agreed that a concealed lapel button is convenient BUT sleeve buttons in case of tire puncture?, Who changes a tire in a suit coat? Get a smock or lab coat and put it in the trunk.

Depending upon the customer's order, whether it be Neiman Marcus or an indiviudal, Oxxford will deliver the suit without sewn-on buttons and with the cuffs prepared for working buttons. A good number of stores order them without the buttons because the sleeve length needs adjustment. Brooks Bros. used to have all of their suits without sewn-on buttons, and Paul Stuart still maintains the tradition.

I agree that that working buttons serve no function. They are solely decorative and historical. I know many clothing professions who get their clothes for free who forego working buttons. I personally like them.
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