Kennst du das Land, wo die Zitronen blühn?

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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Gruto

Fri Oct 27, 2006 9:01 pm

I am fascinated by the 19th century. It was a time of extreme cultural production. It founded capitalism through limited companies. It facilitated growth of democracies. And it gave birth to the suit ...

In Denmark H. C. Andersen and Kierkegaard walked the streets of Copenhagen, and painters went to eternal Italy to live a life of truth: to be an artist.

Here are some pictures from "the golden age" of Danish cultural life.

Especially, I like this picture by Constantin Hansen called "Danske Kunstnere i Rom" ("Danish Artists in Rome") from 1837::

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This one is from the same year. Its by Ditlev Blunck, the gentleman in white trousers on Hansen's picture. It is called "Danske Kunstnere i osteriet La Gensola":

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In Copenhagen students were living a elitist life controlling the future ... I think this picture is very cool. Unfortunately, this copy is not good. The picture is by Wilhelm Bendz (1827). It is called "Et Tobaksselskab" (something like "A Smoking Lounge"). The original at Ny Carlsberg Glyptoteket in Copenhagen is awsome:

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Gruto

Sun Oct 29, 2006 1:39 pm

I don't hope you find it boring ... This picture is another one from "the golden age". A portrait of storyteller HC Andersen. It is by Frederik Sødring (1836). At 31Andersen is a rising star, and I am sure that frock coat is from one of the best tailors in Copenhagen. And the vest, is it in silk?

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We've been talking about shirts and pattern matching many times. Some have claimed it is a new invention. The following picture tells another story. Take a good look at the yoke. It should be possible to see the seamless match of stripes ... The picture is by one of very best from the golden age, Christian Købke. It is portrait of his colleague Frederik Sødring from 1832:

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Gruto

Sun Oct 29, 2006 3:56 pm

It might be an Italian speciality but it has long story, the sleeve with ripples falling from the shoulder: Two pictures of Schiller and Goethe. The Schiller-picture is from ca. 1800, the latter of Goethe - with lipstick! - is from 1828.

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Tampan
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Sun Oct 29, 2006 4:18 pm

Not boring at all! I particularly like the picture of Hans Christian Andersen, the outfit looks good on his slightly undernourished frame. Ooh but his cuffs are undone! :wink:

And Frederik Sødring with his vest lapels raised, a 19th Century "Fonzie". He also has quite a large fly. The pictures make me appreciate more the experimental history of the suit. Thanks for sharing!

Tampan
Gruto

Mon Oct 30, 2006 7:57 pm

[quote=]"The pictures make me appreciate more the experimental history of the suit "[/quote]

Thank you. Pictures like these tell different story from fashion journals at that time, a story that might be a bit closer to what "real" gentlemen wore.

Here is another one. It is from 1795, e.g. after the French Revolution. The neoclassical frock coat of the middle class has replaced the decorative rococco coat of the court. The picture is by Jens Juel. It depicts P. A. Heiberg, critic and author, and very influential at that time in Denmark.

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Gruto

Sat Nov 04, 2006 12:35 pm

The beginning of the 1900s Century. The age of the genius, the artist, the creator ...

Painter Troels Lund depicted by Ditlev Blunck (1798-1854) in 1831:

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A self-portrait by Ditlev Blunck (1826):

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Gruto

Fri Nov 10, 2006 2:19 pm

Who invented not to button the lowest button at the vest - Edward? Well, here is another story ... A detail from Eckersberg's portrait of Count Bille-Brahe (1817):

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