Odd jacket questions

[bry2000]

I am wondering what types of odd jackets are appropriate for a Fall/Winter evening out in the city (generically, any city)? I assume in the USA, a blue DB blazer is always fine. But if one wanted to look less military or nautical, what other types of odd jackets look good for evening activities (nice dinner out, going to the cinema, etc.)? I would think that tweeds worn in the city at night would seem a little out of place. What do you wear?

Thank you.

[Cantabrigian]

For what it's worth, I think a tweed looks fine at night - even with khakis or jeans. I was just seriously considering ordering a half-belted jacket with an action back (I don't think that qualifies as a true Norfolk since it isn't fully belted) with large patch pockets (there is probably a technical name for those also - the ones that come out of the jacket) in a greenish or orange tweed.

But that won't really help you in your quest to look casual but less martial. How about an unstructured cashmere jacket?

[bry2000]

What you describe is not a norfolk. The pockets you are referring to are called bellows pockets (I think). The jacket you describe has nice details, but is probably better suited for country wear or for hunting. I think the action back and bellows pockets would look a little out of place for my purpose -- casual evening jacket for the city.

A cashmere odd jacket is a good idea. Anyone else have any suggestions.

[iammatt]

FWIW, when I go to a movie, I prefer to wear a sweater and some sort of loose jacket. I cannot remember the last time I threw on a sportcoat to go to a movie.

For dinner out I think tweed is just fine. I also like a blue blazer or a suit depending on the setting.

One piece that I own and find to be super useful in the fall and winter is a "blue blazer" that is made from a ribbed cashmere sweater material. I think it is perfect for anything other than a nice dinner.

[dopey]

Tweed-in-the-city-at-night is one of those “it depends.” Many factors are in play, including the type of tweed and pattern, the cut and detailing of the coat (as you noted) and what you are doing and who with. As you may have guessed, I like tweed and wear it when others might not. Still, I would not wear it to a nice restaurant of the type where other diners might be in business suits. Same with the nicer hotel bars. On the other hand, I wore a tweed suit at the East Side Company Bar this weekend without feeling like I was bringing down the ton.

My favorite sportcoat for dressier nights out is this one. It is a beautifully lush cloth in a royal blue/black pattern that feels like cashmere or a cashmere/lambswool blend or just a good quality lambswool. I have long since forgotten what it is. I do remember Dege telling me that they often suggest it as an alternative to velvet for smoking jackets.

While I love the utility of this coat, I have never loved the fit, and it was redone last year with some improvement. It is still a flawed fit but I wear it anyway. While the jacket is soft, the cloth is more luxurious than slouchy and the peak lapels and other angles give it a more formal cast. During the summer, I use camel or gray suitcoats of tropical worsted in the identical cut for the same purpose.

American that I am, I am perfectly happy to use my blazers for dressier occasions, but they are more limited for nighttime use and I generally prefer the other examples I gave.

[couch]

Bry: Evening, city, dinner, I'd think dark suit first. That swims against the current tide, though. What were you thinking of pairing with the jacket? Dress shirt and tie? Open collar dress shirt (BD or spread)? Mock or turtleneck?

In the early and mid '60s a very popular casual evening look among the NY music, arts, and lit crowd (and TV spies) was a dark (e.g. brown/black glen check) tweed sport coat (fairly fitted, short vents) worn with a black turtleneck (not mock) and dark trousers (slim cut). I think this would play very well today if you like turtles. It changes the outdoorsy character of the tweed somehow.

Another look for a black turtle is a dark striped flannel coat. This has boating-club blazer roots, but hardly anyone would recognize that. I have a two-button peak lapel version in 3/4, 1/4, and 1-inch stripes that alternate among a liver-brown, navy, and oxford grey. Brown buttons. It's a cheesy OTR garment but an excellent cloth pattern. I wear it with charcoal flannels and the black turtle, and it never fails to draw compliments. I'd love to have a version that actually fits properly.

With ties I would think a smooth tweed like the LL tweed would work, though it's a bit light in color, and other nappy cloths that don't look too rustic. Solid camel hair and cashmere as mentioned, flannel patterns that don't look like half a business suit, rougher silk-wool blends.

For me the hard part, if I'm not wearing a suit, is selecting a shirt color/pattern that looks smart enough for a city evening yet doesn't look out of place with the odd jacket. This is true worn with ties, and especially without. That may be one reason it's hard to think of odd jackets that work in an ensemble. It's certainly one reason I like charcoal or black silk/cashmere turtlenecks for this purpose.