Parisian style

[BirdofSydney]

Marvailleux, M. Alden!

I think you've just helped me work out how to describe the shoulder of an (admittedly Italian made) jacket I wear and love.

To the discussion of French neckwear I would add the name of Leonard, Paris, who are, to my mind, the thinking man's Hermes. A little heavier, with more colour depth, and though some of the Deco patterns can get out of control, most of the prints are just gorgeous. I shall post photos, I promise.

I understand that the tailoring arm of Jeanne Lanvin's company has recently been reanimated, whether it proves to be a tailor or merely a fashion label remains to be seen.

Best,

Eden

[uppercase]

Those are wonderful photos, indeed.

I am trying to put my finger on why the outfits look so good in black and white; could it be the white shirt, contrasting with a dark suit and light neckwear...?

The white shirt has all but disappeared these days; perhaps this classic needs to be brought back.


Taking a quick look in my own closet - stripes, checks, and more stripes....

If the LL life includes pate and champus and elegant dress, I am all for it!

Why do we need to go back 50 years and more to find what looks elegant?

What is missing today?

[Mark Seitelman]

One glorious thing about this film is that an older man can be dress like an adult and act like an adult. We did not need to see Gabin sans shirt.

He played one hell of a guy who could lead a band of crooks into a very dangerous heist.

[Mark Seitelman]

One final note.

I would think that a big factor in the "look" is the cloth weight. I am guessing that the cloths were 16+ ounces.

[alden]

I would think that a big factor in the "look" is the cloth weight. I am guessing that the cloths were 16+ ounces.

At the very least they were 16 ozs. fabrics in the early 1950s.

[Guest]

There is an interesting story here, though I do not know it: the shoulders you display actually resemble those on my Romanian bespoke suits by Negrila. Were we to closely examine the development of the Communist-period training of tailors, we would probably see the unbroken line between Paris and Bucharest.

[Costi]

Quite so, dear dr. Bresch. In fact, Bucharest used to be known as “The Little Paris” of the East in the early 1900’s - more for its aspirations, I would say, rather than the reality of those times; although the thriving of French-inspired architecture, the literary and artistic effervescence and the cafes’ atmosphere did lend the city a “boheme” air.


Most tailoring terms in Romanian are borrowed from German: sacou (Sakko), Spitze, Kant, rosar (Rosshaar), Schlitz - and French (I’ll write some only in Romanian as I’m sure the French originals will be easy to recognize): pantalon, rever, epolet (epaulette), paspoal (passepoil), manseta (reads “mansheta” - manchette), butoniere, pense (pince), fermoar, feston, voal (voile), plisa (plisser), talie (taille), evaze, broderie, surfila… -- which shows who taught the Romanians modern (20th century) tailoring. The French terminology came mostly with women’s tailoring, as any well-to-do Romanian lady between the 1850’s and 1920’s had to have her dresses made in Paris. The French influence then engulfed men’s tailoring, too - which probably shows in the way the (few) old Romanian masters still cut and shape men’s suits today.

The ultimate suit test: the wheel

[Jackson]

Recently came across this article on Cifonelli. The piece mentions some recent developments. It's in French:

http://www.luxe-magazine.com/default.ph ... R=9&A=1403

[Étienne]

Camps DeLuca and Cifonelli are the only two “tailoring” houses run by sons who learned the craft from very talented fathers. One hopes that their businesses prosper.

What is your opinion of Charvet for bespoke suits?

[alden]

The tailor at Charvet is excellent. His clients include Philippe Noiret who favors sweater like soft jackets. I have seen many beautiful garments in the process while visiting the shop. You can tell alot about a tailor and his clientele from the selection of fabrics he is working. In the case of Charvet, I remember seeing alot of superb tweeds and linens. This tells me that his clientele is sartorially sophisticated and experienced. This is a very good sign. If you ever enter a tailors shop and see the standard bunches of cheap Italianate worsteds at work, stand clear!

[Marabunta]

The plaid jacket's breadth through the chest, ease through the upper body and nipped in waist, is what I'm seeing from French design houses, of late. Quite chic.

[speedster]

Having some experience with French RTW & MTM I find this thread quite interresting.
My French experience involves Paraboot, Heshung, Smalto, Kenzo, Cacharel, Nodus, Faconable (their ties are exelent value IMHO) & Girbaud.

Have been entrigued enough aboiut Arnaud, will have to visitt to se their "hunting jacket" or the one designed for "Le Corbusier" and Ties. If some one can coment on the jackets that would me most welcome ...

I also need to have a look at Cifonelli ...

Can post my finest links If there is interrest & cappacity for reading / understanding french. There are some that are slightly OTT but a lott of nice information.

Speed

[rjman]

The tailor at Charvet is excellent. His clients include Philippe Noiret who favors sweater like soft jackets. I have seen many beautiful garments in the process while visiting the shop.

Thanks to a domino-effect episode at a certain French bespoke maker's yesterday with a certain other LL member, I've asked to try the "French style" bespoke with a sport jacket using some cashmere from Draper's. I was offered the Khan (or KHAAAAAAAAAAAAAANNN!!!) cashmere book as well, but the Draper's stuff appeared just a bit more luminous and luxurious. Further reports as events warrant. In homage to M. Noiret, I shall also attempt to become as good-livingly zaftig as he in the coming months.

[dopey]

In homage to M. Noiret, I shall also attempt to become as good-livingly zaftig as he in the coming months.

Is this from Rosten's "The Joys of the Global Village"?

[RWS]

. . . . Can post my finest links If there is interrest & cappacity for reading / understanding french. There are some that are slightly OTT but a lott of nice information. . . .

Please do!