Moleskin & Cords

[Guest]

http://hollandsherry.com/collections/wi ... hs344.html

Do you think that it's worth doing bespoke for this kind of cloth - cotton/casual , or better to just go RTW.?

[Guest]

This is a subject dear to my heart. I recently searched for about a month for some acceptable cords for the winter. My tailor offered to make them, but even he thought the price too high for the product. The sad fact is that cords wear out quickly and paying top dollar for them is crazy.

My first stop was at a store that makes rather nice pants. Nothing special, but nice. They wanted $100 dollars more for a pair of cords MTM than did my tailor. Really crazy.

Finally I found a few pairs from Ralph Lauren. They are not as perfect as a bespoke pair, but in my experience corduroy does not drape exceptionally well and does not merit hand tailoring etc.

I am going to have my new pants cuffed today at a local tailor and I hope that they last me for a few good winters.

[Guest]

Yes, I hate to spend good money on a pair of bespoke odd trousers; it just seems sort of overkill , with prices what they are, when you can often find perfectly good fitting trousers RTW.

But I was thinking of a bespoke coat. Would a bespoke cord or moleskin sports coat be worth going the bespoke route?

I don't know...sometimes these casual materials are best in RTW...they don't need all of the sculpting and attention of bespoke , do they?

[Guest]

Why not go bespoke? I have several pairs of bespoke cord trousers (high rise and no pleats with buttoned side tabs or elastic waistband, double pleated etc.) and they get a lot of wear in my free time from September to April.

[Guest]

Why not go bespoke? I have several pairs of bespoke cord trousers (high rise and no pleats with buttoned side tabs or elastic waistband, double pleated etc.) and they get a lot of wear in my free time from September to April.

Still: can anyone beat this one on price & quality?

http://www.houseofbruar.com/

Regards,

Paul

[Guest]

Now I've found an excellent tailor for trousers I can't imagine reverting to RTW. He's currently making me some corduroy trousers in a Holland & Sherry pale grey. First time I've had corduroys made. It will be good to compare the fit with my Cording's cords.

[Guest]

Why not go bespoke? I have several pairs of bespoke cord trousers (high rise and no pleats with buttoned side tabs or elastic waistband, double pleated etc.) and they get a lot of wear in my free time from September to April.

Still: can anyone beat this one on price & quality?

Yes, those prices are excellent. For Scotland

Costi

[Guest]

I like my Gieves & Thieves moleskins. So do my lady friends. They stroke my legs when I wear them.

[Guest]

Isn't the only corduroy cloth manufacturer left in UK is Brisbane Moss? I believe that H&S uses BM for its corduroy.

Perhaps there are less expensive sources of BM corduroy than H&S?

Andrey

[Guest]

Corduroy and moleskin, given their short life span, seem like ideal cloth for MTM over bespoke. You can always have a MTM tailor copy the bespoke pair.

[Guest]

Well, I think, and apart from the cost, that certain materials and styles are best left for RTW.

Unless ofcourse there are body, fit issues.

Also certain cloths and styles are best left to certain tailors; not all tailors can handle a variety of cloth and styles equally well; I mean to say that I would partially choose a tailor based on the particular cloth I had , and the intended use of the suit/sports coat.

Generally, I would say that it becomes a question of an individujal's style; to my way of thinking, there is a certain self consciousness in bespoke clothing; it is neither elegant nor stylish to be fitted so carefully when one is dressing casually and wearing ordinary materials such as cotton. This can descend into unknowing foppishness.

Personally, I appreciate a bit of discordance in one's appearance; this can manifest itself in so many ways but certainly wearing a nicely tailored, precious fiber coat with a bit baggy, RTW cord trousers would be an example.

Refer to Luca Rubinacci's photo somewhere in LL; is he wrongly dressed in his bespoke sports coat, RTW , baggy kneed trousers, unbuttoned shirt cuffs?

I would say no; he is right on and there's somethere to be learned from this young man when it comes to dressing individually , without too much preciousness and trying too hard.

[Guest]

I get cloth from H&S and have them made up MTM. You get the details exactly as you want.

[Guest]

there is a certain self consciousness in bespoke clothing; it is neither elegant nor stylish to be fitted so carefully when one is dressing casually and wearing ordinary materials such as cotton.

Of course there is self-consciousness in bespoke clothing, but who said corduroy trousers needed to be tailored the same way as flannel or worsted? The style is completely different, because the material behaves differently (virtually no drape, as someone rightly pointed out above) and the use of the garment is different. But does that make RTW a better choice?! I think it is best to ask a good tailor to make the appropriate style of trousers (baggy, if you prefer them that way). They'll look more rumpled anyway because they're cotton, but that doesn't mean fit has to suffer. A good line is always visiblein a pair of trousers, even if they are all wrinkles.

C

[Guest]

I would no more get cords bespoke than my blue jean suit.

It is a matter of taste.

[Guest]

For bespoke cords and moleskins I use 28oz and 21oz fabrics, respectively. They are made completely differently from my regular trousers as they are flat front and belted. I have been unable to find the fabric, the weight and the cut in RTW. Given what I pay, I am not sure if MTM would be any cheaper.