The Black Tie Waist

[iammatt]

It has been a very long time since I last owned a double breasted dinner jacket. I am thinking of having one made up, but before I do, I hope that somebody can bring me up to speed on the necessary accessories. Do I wear a cummerbund or vest with a double breasted dinner jacket, or perhaps neither. What about braces? Are they necessary aesthetically if the fit of the trousers does not require them?

Thanks.

[dopey]

Nothing at all needed with DB. If you don’t want braces because you don’t care for the functionality, then do without (but obviously, no belt either - side tabs might offend some, but not me). Either a vest or cummerbund is o.k. if you want, but not needed. I don’t know where you are in your life, but I used to expect to not be wearing my jacket by the end of many functions. That is no longer the case for me, but may still be for you. If you think it is likely that your jacket will come off, then you need a vest or cummerbund if you will be wearing braces. If you will not be wearing braces, then it is your choice. I would opt for a cummerbund in your circumstances for two reasons - it is creates a nice long leg line and defined waist for someone of your build and it is keeping with the technically less formal nature of a DB dinner suit. On the other hand, if you want a vest, you probably have to get it when you order your suit (unless you go for white pique, which I do not recommend with DB). You can get a cummerbund anytime since it is just black silk (well . . . mine is white).

So there you have it. Nothing is needed. Maybe get a vest just in case.

[uppercase]

Have you considered a SB shawl?

[DD MacDonald]

Matt,

For me the two great virtures of the DB dinnersuit are that you can dispense completely with the cumberbund versus waistcoat debate while retaining a very traditional look (and I mean traditional in the sense that it is not even on the same plane as a notch lapel job with a four in hand). It's all very natty indeed.

I am not really a fan of colored waistcoats and cumberbunds unless they have a unique bit of flair and something hearty in their construction. If it looks like it came from the rental shop or there is a 1-in-1000 chance of anyone else having it, i'd leave it behind. I have a dear friend who wears a cumberbund made of silk grosgrain in the colors of the Swedish flag (he being Swedish) under his DB DJ. One only ever sees it when he unbutton's the jacket to sit for dinner when it is not an unwanted flash of color. This I will admit to admiring.

As to braces, here I caution you to think comfort. A well sculpted pair of high waisted trousers are most comfortable when they just float above the hips with no constriction on the waist whether standing or sitting. The only way to keep them up is a pair of braces. No otherway around it.

If you are thinking of having one made, hew to the traditions. They will always pay you back.

(If you want to be more avant than traditional, hit Favourbrook and spec a black velvet Nehru. Groovy baby!)

DDM

[iammatt]

DDM-

My thought are the same as yours as to the virtues of the DB dinner jacket. They are exactly why I am leaning in that direction.

I will consider your advice on the trousers as well. I tend to wear semi low rise pants, but this might be the right situation to try something different.

[DD MacDonald]

Matt, don't be afraid to raise the rise. They come just over the hip bones and straight across the front (level front to back actually) and are extremely comfortable and "hang" beautifully. If you take them to your ribcage, you've gone too far.

Good luck choosing cloth. It can seem awfully boring, but good black 11 oz barathea makes a fine suit. I looked at the expensives and the exotics but one of the real fine-points of dinner suits is to blend in while subtly looking better than anyone else. I've found that its all about the cut. Others may opine differently, but I would not get too heavy a cloth. Comfort brother, its all about comfort.

Keep us posted. If you want, I'll try and dig out the call number for the suiting that I used.

DDM

[Cufflink79]

Matt, don't be afraid to raise the rise. They come just over the hip bones and straight across the front (level front to back actually) and are extremely comfortable and "hang" beautifully. If you take them to your ribcage, you've gone too far.
DDM

I am with DDM on the rise of the trouser. Even though high rise trousers are great and I love them, you do have to be careful or you'll end up looking like Fred Mertz.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

[DD MacDonald]

Matt,

Here's another thought. Given the smashing success of the Rubinacci jacket recently posted, you would do well to consider its clone finished as a SB DJ with peak lapels.

DDM

[manton]

DB is, for me, the best option for the modern world. I don't like the way SB DJs look with turndown collar shirts, but find a correct wing collar shirt to be too impractical (despite how stunning it can look.)

I agree with the above: get high waisted trousers, cut an inch or so too big, and wear moire braces with braided ends. Pair with a turndown collar pleated or (even better) marcella shirt. DB shawl, cut 4x1, is an absolute classic and guaranteed to be rare to the point of non-existant at 99% of American black tie events.

[ThomasG]

I have three DJ's, two SB and one DB. I rarely wear the DB because I find that it's too warm(it must be buttoned at all times), but then I have a tendency to run hot. Also, I like to untie my bow tie at the end of the evening and it doesnt look that good with a buttoned DB DJ.