Vol. II No. III (Feb 06') Late Winter / Spring Items AA

[MildlyConsumptiv]

'The gent on the right wears a “track suit” in brown flannel with white bold chalkstripes"

I can hardly imagine a world where the term "track suit" commonly refered to something like this. Truly, it was a better (dressed) time.

Also, I notice that on the fellow's "tack suit" his ticket pocket does not line up with the front edge of the main pocket. Is this done to maintian the integrity of the pattern? That is the only reason I can think of.

[dopey]

. . .Also, I notice that on the fellow's "tack suit" his ticket pocket does not line up with the front edge of the main pocket. Is this done to maintian the integrity of the pattern? That is the only reason I can think of.

What you are referring to is a rather common practice on Savile Row (and not limited to there), although it is somewhat exaggerated in the illustration. The idea is that the cut of the waist suppression requires that the pockets be off-line in actuality in order to be in-line in appearance. On the suit I wore today, the difference is less than a cm.

[couch]

Etutee,

It would be boorish not to add my voice to the chorus of praise from members. This and all your posts are superb, and much appreciated. Thanks indeed.

- RC

[DonB]

Here is the latest addition of the AA/Esky series. Since it is almost spring time we will wrap up with the last of winter articles in this post. This edition is divided into four sections, the first one covers fabrics for fall, the second one over Scotch patterns & British Regimentals, the third one over Spring Survey with illustrations and finally the last one over Palm Beach season preview. It is a VERY detailed post and took some 50+ hours of work to create. Hopefully, you will find what is presented below of interest and will learn from it.

Truly marvellous, such an exhaustive wealth of information on all things sartorial is unsurpassed to my knowledge.

I would like to seize the moment to point out that the link to the Alternate Accessories appears to be broken.

Kind regards,
Don

[Mulberrywood]

Simply fantastic.


Thank you.

Your description of the old dyeing practices was very informative, and I enjoyed your comments on ties.

[Etutee]

I would like to seize the moment to point out that the link to the Alternate Accessories appears to be broken.

Kind regards,
Don

Thank you for your kind words. As far as the link is concerned, indeed it appears to be non-functional so I will remove it. Unfortunately, I do not have that scanned picture saved anymore so resorting the link is not an option.

By the way... there was no figure illustartion. It was only a belt and braces with few coordinating ties I guess.

sincerely
etutee

[alden]

I have spent the better part of four months far from the net working on a ranch in Sicily. The most common occupation was pruning trees, cleaning grounds of brush and planting vines. The most common dress was Carhart, and Levis as I have not made the plunge into the bespeaking of hand tailored work dungarees….yet. Catching up with the LL has been great fun, especially the posts of our dear Etutee.



What would you say to an LL limited edition of this variety? Let’s say in kid mohair/wool.

Furthermore, there are 3 checks and 2 plaids that take precedence over everything else, these are; Argyle Plaid, Glen Urquhart Plaid, Shepherd Check, Hound’s tooth check and Gun Club check. Even though you may not be inetersted in tartans but every well dressed man’s wardrobe (well-rounded) should have at least some items form these above mentioned five patterns.

Bravo! I would add that the covert coat and light gray flannel suit pictured in Etutee's essay are equally required in an elegant wardrobe.

I also find the mid brown/russet chalk stripe tough to resist...if one could only find that shade today. Maybe another project to consider.

Cheers Etutee

[bry2000]

Alden,

Welcome back. We look forward to your new posts.

[dopey]

. . .

What would you say to an LL limited edition of this variety? Let’s say in kid mohair/wool.

While I appreciate your intentions, Alden, I would find it much more useful if you could commission for me Anthony Eden's physique rather than his wardrobe. I know your resources are vast, but since that may take some time, even for you, I will gladly lend my support for this project in the interim.

Nevertheless, I did have two conflicting thoughts on your cloth selection. First, I was not sure that this pattern would work in the shiny, somewhat slick finish of a mohair blend. Somehow, a mohair wool blend strikes me as too formal and less suited for the daytime use shown in the illustration. Yet as illustrated, I have no doubt that with a change of waistcoat and accessories that suit would make an easy transition to an elegant evening suit. In a matte finish it very versatile. My preference for this pattern would be a worsted flannel somewhere in the 11 to 14 oz range. Then, it occurred to me that I have a cut of a 600 gm mohair/wool blend in dark navy with a raised blue stripe. Doing the windowpane in a raised pattern of a silvery blue would be elegant indeed and truly rare, though I have no idea if that is technically feasible. Either way, I am interested.

[Will]

I believe this design lends itself better to a 13 oz. flannel than a mohair blend, but I'll participate in a project either way.

Particularly if we could get the blue on gray flannel project into completion.

[whittaker]

Welcome back, Michael. I suspect that I will also be spending more time in Sicily but that is for another time.

Of the summer trousers I had made, the kid mohair/wool are possibly my favourite. This would be a splendid project, though of specialised usage. A fabric in the 9 oz. to 10 oz. range, more for spring/early autumn wear, would be perfect for me.

However, to add diversity to my wardrobe I will support any project with this pattern.

[RWS]

I'm game, especially for a mohair or mohair blend.

[smoothjazzone]

Blue windowpane on grey is a common enough fabric (numerous Lesser books have the fabric in question). What is special about this one is the plaid is much thicker than your traditional windowpane (approx. 3/16" wide) and its a nice size (5cm x 6cm or so). This would be a great project for a kid mohair / wool blend regular worsted as suggested. An alternative is to make this fabric in a fresco weave. The fresco may be more comfortable to wear in the summer and may give the fabric some surface interest that some members seem to be seeking (I think) from a flannel finish.

[manton]

is it simply that the windowpane is bigger? Or is there a white "shadow" stripe to it in addition to the blue? That's the way it looks to me in the illustration. But these illustrations are not exactly exacting ...

[JamesT1]

I think the white stripe in question is merely the light reflecting off of the thick blue yarn.

Also, I'd be willing to support making this fabric a reality.

James