Jacket with patch pockets

[kolecho]

I am making a fresco jacket with patch pockets. It will have 3 buttons, 2.5 roll. It will part of a suit, but will also be worn from time to time as an odd jacket (especially when I am travelling with this suit).

- Should the breast pocket also be of the patch variety?
- What are the approximate height and width of hip and breast patch pockets for someone that of medium build at 5' 10"?

[the tailor]

I have our old RTW patch pocket in my workroom, it is 8.75inches, by 9.5inches in depth We made thousands of blazers with this size patch. We were not responsible for determining the size of pockets, that came to us from the customer we were making for. On this occasion, it happened to be one of the largest menswear retailers in the UK, they also have worldwide concessions. I would be suprised if this was not more or less a standard size,(up to a certain garment chest size) in the UK.
Top patch breast pockets look good on linens, but I personally prefer OBW.
If any patches are used, to look good they must, in my humble opinion, be bluffed on, not top stitched.

[Des Esseintes]

Kolecho

I own two old summer suits in the "all patch" style which I both like very much, maybe because they are elegant in a very relaxed and - at least nowadays - rather uncommon way.

Nevertheless, I would personally recommend not to have a patch breast pocket for the simple reason that I find wearing a pocket handkerchief well in a patch breast pocket rather difficult - it either slips down too easily if you use a neat, geometric fold, or the pocket will look rather bulky with a "puff in, pull out" handkerchief style.

Maybe it's just my lack of a decent folding technique...

dE

[kolecho]

Top patch breast pockets look good on linens, but I personally prefer OBW.
If any patches are used, to look good they must, in my humble opinion, be bluffed on, not top stitched.

What is:
- OBW?
- Bluffed on?

Thanks.

[the tailor]

Kolecho,
OBW, is out breast pocket, or the top welt pocket on a jacket.
Bluffed on patch pockets: is where the patch is sew on to the jacket from the back, you can not see any stiching. It is tricky to do and takes a lot of practice, but the finished result is much better.
The other way to do them is to have the patch pre made and then simply top stitch them in place. This is the method i do not like or use, but is much easier.

[kolecho]

Thanks for the explanation.

Does bluff stitched patch pockets also hold its shape better over time?

[the tailor]

No, you cannot say one is more stronger than the other, it is quite simply one has a much cleaner and better look when finished.
If you bluff your patches on, you can also double line them. When you place your hand in the patch, the palm of your hand will also be on lining, instead of the forepart or front cloth.