My first custom shirt/Tom James

[Gruto]

In support of the idea that pattern matching is a recent ideal, the patterns were not matched on a Lydendecker poster for Arrow Shirts which was issued in the 1920's..

1) Flusser's Dressing The Man contains a photo of a young Fred Astaire in a classic shirt with matching stripes.

2) I once read an article on H&K' s former website stating that all shirts had pattern matching before the War.

[Mark Seitelman]

Tom James is oookay, if you are on a limited budget and want to experience mtm clothing. If you want to experience true luxury try bespoke shirts with non fused interlings. Handmade bespoke shirts will stand the test of time if cared for properly.

Mark, it would seem that there is much to be said for fused collars on shirts, and no less an authority than Alex Kabbaz appears to consider them superior (if done properly) to non-fused collars. If I remember correctly, Alex noted that a good fused collar will lie flatter than will a non-fused one--and not be subject to the waviness found with the latter.

Individualized Shirts offers both fused and non-fused collars. Same with Turnbull & Asser.

[kirsch]

Chris,

I know this is an older post, but...

I use a guy here in Atlanta named James Toombs. I don't think he does bespoke (I haven't really asked him that yet), but I know from experience that is an amazing tailor and that he will do MTM. I have brought him three very inexpensive suits (all i could afford at the time), and he did an EXCELLENT job at making them look like a completely different, form-fitting suit--probably the best those RTWs would ever look. I'm quite proud to wear them now!

He also does MTM shirts. I have not yet purchased on from him, but after experiencing what he's done for me already (several times), I'd trust that they would be very good MTM. His cost is $125.

Secondly, you could try mytailor.com. Again, it's MTM. I know everyone has told you to go bespoke. I would never disagree, but I know you were originally looking at MTM...


--Chris

[Chris Rimby]

Chris,

I know this is an older post, but...

I use a guy here in Atlanta named James Toombs. I don't think he does bespoke (I haven't really asked him that yet), but I know from experience that is an amazing tailor and that he will do MTM. I have brought him three very inexpensive suits (all i could afford at the time), and he did an EXCELLENT job at making them look like a completely different, form-fitting suit--probably the best those RTWs would ever look. I'm quite proud to wear them now!

He also does MTM shirts. I have not yet purchased on from him, but after experiencing what he's done for me already (several times), I'd trust that they would be very good MTM. His cost is $125.

Secondly, you could try mytailor.com. Again, it's MTM. I know everyone has told you to go bespoke. I would never disagree, but I know you were originally looking at MTM...


--Chris

Thanks for the tip Chris. I ended up finding a great salesman to measure me for MTM shirts at H. Stockton at Lenox Square. His name is Ashton Greene. I'm quite happy with these. They run about $130 - $150. If you use the Mason fabrics they run $300+ though.

I recently tried mytailor.com. I haven't received the shirt yet as it takes 6- 8 weeks to fill an order. Just my personal opinion here...avoid these guys. The fabric selections were REALLY weak, and the guy measuring me gave no guidance, offered very little in the way of conversation and literally just loomed over me for twenty minutes as I browsed the swatches. He just wanted me to order and leave (that's the impression he gave me at least).

Let me know if you try a shirt from James Toombs. It's likely that the shirts I'm buying and the shirts he's offering are made in the same factory in New Jersey though. That's where a lot of them come from.

[kirsch]

I will let you know...

and, the guy who measured you from mytailor didn't happened to be named Ram Keswani, did he?

He measured me for a vest. Same deal. Not personable...very pushy...acted like he was the end all-be all to suits.

[Chris Rimby]

No...my guy's name was "N Rusty". Seeing as you had the same experience....I think we know what to do from now on.

As it has been said many times before: You get what you pay for!

[Ed]

To be fair, anyone who lives in New York, LA or a few other cities
will be measured by Joe Hemrajani himself. He is very
personable and very helpful. Too bad his salesmen aren't up to
his standard.. I guess Joe gets what HE pays for

[kirsch]

Well I wish he'd hire more than used car salesmen!

Seriously, my salesmen left a bad taste in my mouth. Very pushy. "You give me 200 dolla i make you vest." Slam!--there's the fabrics. He did not even help me look through the fabrics or explain them!

He took maybe 2 measurments. Maybe that's all that is needed for a MTM vest--I'm no pro. But seems like that's not much attention. Couldn't I have done that myself online?!

He also tried to push some neckties on me. Good old 1980's designs. Does Hermanji know about that? He does not sell them on his website.

What else? Oh, yeah, I had to wait an hour and half after our appointment time to get this wonderful experience. Ram's plane was late (not his fault), but nobody called me (I called them at the 1-800 number). When I did call them, I explained that I had to get back to work, and they did not offer anything--like a reschedule or anything like that.

I typically do not like supporting business like this, but I really do want to check out their online stuff. I can do that myself. And the prices are really unbeatable. You get to design the shirt yourself and pay what you would for RTW in the store...and it fits you better.

Anyone had an online shirt order with them?

[Chris Rimby]

Well I wish he'd hire more than used car salesmen!

Seriously, my salesmen left a bad taste in my mouth. Very pushy. "You give me 200 dolla i make you vest." Slam!--there's the fabrics. He did not even help me look through the fabrics or explain them!

He took maybe 2 measurments. Maybe that's all that is needed for a MTM vest--I'm no pro. But seems like that's not much attention. Couldn't I have done that myself online?!

He also tried to push some neckties on me. Good old 1980's designs. Does Hermanji know about that? He does not sell them on his website.

What else? Oh, yeah, I had to wait an hour and half after our appointment time to get this wonderful experience. Ram's plane was late (not his fault), but nobody called me (I called them at the 1-800 number). When I did call them, I explained that I had to get back to work, and they did not offer anything--like a reschedule or anything like that.

I typically do not like supporting business like this, but I really do want to check out their online stuff. I can do that myself. And the prices are really unbeatable. You get to design the shirt yourself and pay what you would for RTW in the store...and it fits you better.

Anyone had an online shirt order with them?

alden: I know that Andy had a good experience with Joe H. It's too bad his salesman aren't following his example.

Kirsch: Sounds like your experience was a little worse than mine!

Once you get a shirt you like you can try measuring it at home and ordering from Jantzen:

http://www.jantzentailor.com/our_mission.htm

I just placed a one shirt order today. If you read around the forums you'll hear mixed reviews on their customer service too. But in Jantzen's case it's more about how long it may or may not take to deliver the order. They don't have any traveling salesman (that I know of at least). This is my first order so I can't vouch for them yet. I'll let you know how it goes though. Their price point is around $40 for a shirt (clearly not following my own advice of getting what you pay for...but it doesn't hurt to try!).

[kirsch]

Well,

My vest, which was supposed to take no more than five weeks to arrive, ended up taking EIGHT weeks.

And the only reason it came was because I called their 1800 number twice. The lady who answered said that it was still in Hong Kong. Couldn't tell me why. (I assume it got misplaced or something).

However, as a positive comment, they did send it express from H.K. as soon as they learned about the problem. (There was "express air" written all over the package.)

And I must say--the vest fits VERY well. I am really impressed. The stitching looks really good, too.


Overall, my experience meeting with Ram Keswani was not pleasurable, but I DO think that mytailor.com is a good place to go for MTM shirts/vests, because the PRODUCT is good. And since they made up for their mistake with express shipping, I will give them a second chance with a shirt order.

--Chris

[Chris Rimby]

Well,

My vest, which was supposed to take no more than five weeks to arrive, ended up taking EIGHT weeks.

And the only reason it came was because I called their 1800 number twice. The lady who answered said that it was still in Hong Kong. Couldn't tell me why. (I assume it got misplaced or something).

However, as a positive comment, they did send it express from H.K. as soon as they learned about the problem. (There was "express air" written all over the package.)

And I must say--the vest fits VERY well. I am really impressed. The stitching looks really good, too.


Overall, my experience meeting with Ram Keswani was not pleasurable, but I DO think that mytailor.com is a good place to go for MTM shirts/vests, because the PRODUCT is good. And since they made up for their mistake with express shipping, I will give them a second chance with a shirt order.

--Chris

Timely post kirsch.

I received my Mytailor shirt a few days ago...in three weeks after they quoted me 6-8 weeks. Ahead of schedule! Also, the shirt fits good so far, although I need to launder it a few times before I know exactly how good it will fit. It looks good though. So...I'm in the same boat as you...now that I have (I think) a good set of measurements with them I think I will reorder some shirts via their website.

Another funny thing...the shirt swatches online are much more attractive than the ones the salesman had. There are a bunch of shirts I want to order now.

All in all, not bad for $80 a shirt. Jantzen has shirts for $40 but I've now confirmed that their customer service is as horrible as everyone says it is. Also I've heard of several people receiving shirts with erroneous measurements.

So far Mytailor is the best resource for low-cost MTM shirts (and vests too!) that I have found.

[kirsch]

I agree--the online swatches look much nicer than what the salesmen bring along.

Also, the website seems more organized--more systematic--whcih I like. Sometimes the salesman's books might say "2-ply" rather than distinguish "2-ply" from "2-ply superfine" or something. Gets confusing when you had everything figured out on the website.

Also, there's no numbering system (at least that matches up to the fabric books). So, if you were to find some fabric you liked on the website, you can't convey that to the salesman.

I guess it's a trade-off. You can either get the exact fabric you desire or get measured by a pro.

I'm anxious to try the online ordering. Do you know if the Thomas Mason fabric is really top-notch? How did you enjoy your 2-ply fabric?

--Chris

[Chris Rimby]

I agree--the online swatches look much nicer than what the salesmen bring along.

Also, the website seems more organized--more systematic--whcih I like. Sometimes the salesman's books might say "2-ply" rather than distinguish "2-ply" from "2-ply superfine" or something. Gets confusing when you had everything figured out on the website.

Also, there's no numbering system (at least that matches up to the fabric books). So, if you were to find some fabric you liked on the website, you can't convey that to the salesman.

I guess it's a trade-off. You can either get the exact fabric you desire or get measured by a pro.

I'm anxious to try the online ordering. Do you know if the Thomas Mason fabric is really top-notch? How did you enjoy your 2-ply fabric?

--Chris

Totally agree about the website. There's also a feature where you can save swatches you like to a "wish list". Cool.

I haven't tried the Thomas Mason fabric yet...I hear it's really good though. I plan to try it once I know I've got my shirt measurements nailed down (again after I launder this first one a few times).

One point about the 2-ply that I got. The first time I wore the shirt, when it had not yet been washed, the collar irritated my neck. I think that's a result of the cloth being unwashed as well as the collar being a little big. Both of these issues should be resolved soon though.

Asthetically the 2-ply looks great.

If you don't have a shirt you really like yet I HIGHLY recommend you see Ashton Greene at H.Stockton/Lenox Square. Order a shirt or two from him to get your measurements nailed down. Then you can just input those measurements into the Mytailor order form.

[flannel]

Thanks for the tip Chris. I ended up finding a great salesman to measure me for MTM shirts at H. Stockton at Lenox Square. His name is Ashton Greene. I'm quite happy with these. They run about $130 - $150. If you use the Mason fabrics they run $300+ though.

Now this blows me away. In Poland, there is a company called Da Vinci that makes several shirts for high level private labels (the Loro Piana stores being one of them). They use Mason and the nicest buttons this side of Borrelli, all beautifully single needle stitched and with all the proper chicken foot button stitches that get trumpeted by Neapolitan makers, etc. etc. (I have had a few for coming on three years and quite a few hotel laundry washes). It is a semi-bespoke (1 fitting, plus one 'free trial shirt' if you buy four, so I guess it almost qualifies). The price is 400 PLN, or 135 USD. That includes the margin of the producer, and that of the tailor who fits and brokers them (who is a friend, but not a philanthropist, if you KWIM).

Imagine the markups at 300 dollars for something made with cheaper labor (HK<Poland) and presumably with cheesier buttons and workmanship....

ETA: but then, OTOH, Loro Piana probably charges 400 EUR for those shirt (i.e. 4x400 PLN)

[kirsch]

Wow! Wish I could make it to Poland!

I have a tailor, here in Atlanta, who does about the same as that...his name is James Toombs. For MTM, he's phenomenal. And his stuff runs about 120 USD. You can get a fitting if you request---I mean, really, he is up for anything and will do the job till you get it done the way you want.

I know lots of tailors say that, but this guy really does it.

As for HK having cheaper labor and lesser quality---I would suspect you're right (meaning mytailor.com wouldn't be quite the same quality). But I have to say...after getting my vest, I was VERY pleased with the quality.

So, in the end, I can get a 2-ply for 65 USD MTM. Compared to 125-130 USD, I'll take the risk of HK quality. Especially since I like what they've done for me so far...