Going bespoke

[DonB]

Fellow LL-members,

Being a member for several months now, I have come to the insight that bespoke is what I should aim for. Therefore, I would like to visit Thomas Mahon in September. At the moment I need shirts made.

I would like to know if there are members who have placed orders for shirts with him in the past and what their experiences are.

From the information on theenglishcut.com one can put together the following list of properties:

- Mills: SIC Tess, Italy & Alumo, Switzerland (highest quality).
- Single needle stichwork
- Butterfly gusset
- Mother of Pearl buttons
- Ten piece collars (did he get the number right here?)
- Four piece yokes (again: did he get the number right here?)
- Matching patterns
- Removeable collar stiffeners

Personal preferences:
- Cut: as lean as sartorially sage (as another LL-member put it)
- Collar: open to anything except pin or tab collar (as I like the tips to disappear under a jacket's lapels)
- Gauntlet: with extra button, as the look of a hairy underarm is not exactly that appealing
- Cuff: rounded, one button or two buttons, not French
- Pockets: none, anything fitting in there should probably be stored elsewhere anyway
- Pattern: not to flashy, perhaps just white or light blue or a combination of the two

I would appreciate any and all comments. Not being a native Englishman, I have got to be sure I covered everything before setting off for England.

Regards,
DonB

[Concordia]

I've ordered a shirt from Thomas, in my search to find a reasonably-priced alternative to another London bespoke maker. Not through dissatisfaction, but you never know when you'll want to try something new, or your regular guy will be hit by a bus.

What you've asked for in styling is nothing that you shouldn't be able to order easily.

Thomas's shirts are well-made if my sample is anything to go on. No complaints whatever about construction. For me, the big issue is that it's more or less a MTM product-- not that this is as easy to pin down with shirts as it is with suits. The body and sleeves therefore fit well if not spectacularly so. The collar does have a few big fit problems that will need to be addressed if I'm going to buy another. They probably will be-- Thomas is a stand-up guy in this respect.

Fabric choices are not infinite, but are sensible and of very high quality. Better quality if somewhat more limited in color palette than the Acorn books that are standard-issue on Jermyn Street.

English Cut's prices are not off the charts, but neither are they less than their major competitors' (Dege, New & Lingwood, Budd, et al.).

Good luck, and enjoy!

[DonB]

Hello Concordia,

Thank you for your response.

Thomas's shirts are well-made if my sample is anything to go on. No complaints whatever about construction. For me, the big issue is that it's more or less a MTM product-- not that this is as easy to pin down with shirts as it is with suits. The body and sleeves therefore fit well if not spectacularly so. The collar does have a few big fit problems that will need to be addressed if I'm going to buy another. They probably will be-- Thomas is a stand-up guy in this respect.

Mr. Mahon writes that he takes measurements and that he uses Rayner and Sturges to construct the shirt. It is then shipped to my resedential address. After washing and wearing it a few times one has the opportunity to take it back to mr. Mahon and have it adapted.

May I ask whether or not you have gone back to have the shirt adapted to your specific wishes?

Fabric choices are not infinite, but are sensible and of very high quality. Better quality if somewhat more limited in color palette than the Acorn books that are standard-issue on Jermyn Street.

English Cut's prices are not off the charts, but neither are they less than their major competitors' (Dege, New & Lingwood, Budd, et al.).

Good luck, and enjoy!

Would you consider posting photos of the shirt on the forum? That will help me in deciding whether going bespoke with Mr. Mahon is worth the effort.

Kind regards,
DonB

[Concordia]

May I ask whether or not you have gone back to have the shirt adapted to your specific wishes?
...
Would you consider posting photos of the shirt on the forum? That will help me in deciding whether going bespoke with Mr. Mahon is worth the effort.

Haven't had a chance yet to cycle through. We'll probably chat in the fall when he visits NYC.

Don't have the technology to post pictures. There's not much I can show in pictures that would help, except to say that if you've ever seen a really good English shirt, this is roughly equivalent. Good enough to hold onto the sale, not so good that it would compensate for deficiencies in fit or style.

[tteplitzmd]

Noting the prevailing wisdom that a besoke (English) shirt should not have a pocket, I would like to share what a colleague told me when we were both using Dege: "I work for a living, I need the pocket."

I admit to circumspection, against anyone short of Lord Rothschild (for example) wearing a bespoke shirt without pocket. A careful observor will note that the owner is invariably fiddling with a pen unless he's wearing a jacket. I've also been asked to loan out my pen to the fastidious pocketless guy. If I worked in a manner that required a jacket to be worn at all times, I think I could live without the pocket. But, to me, a well cut shirt, of fine cloth, means more than the conceit of going pocketless. Most of us are just working class guys.

[DonB]

Noting the prevailing wisdom that a besoke (English) shirt should not have a pocket, I would like to share what a colleague told me when we were both using Dege: "I work for a living, I need the pocket."

I admit to circumspection, against anyone short of Lord Rothschild (for example) wearing a bespoke shirt without pocket. A careful observor will note that the owner is invariably fiddling with a pen unless he's wearing a jacket. I've also been asked to loan out my pen to the fastidious pocketless guy. If I worked in a manner that required a jacket to be worn at all times, I think I could live without the pocket. But, to me, a well cut shirt, of fine cloth, means more than the conceit of going pocketless. Most of us are just working class guys.

Hello ttplitzmd,

Thanks for your response. Your colleague is right ofcourse. In my personal situation I need to carry a lot more than just a pen. That is why I use a portfolio as depicted below (picture quality does not do it justice I am afraid):



As you can see it holds a writing block, but there is room for other things as well. It helps me to avoid creating a messy appearance, such as the guy you are mentioning.

Kind regards,
Don

[uppercase]

I like a dress shirt with a pocket.

Yes, the English will sniff and if you are a public school boy, your peers will rip the shirt pocket off!

The Italians have a more liberal view of the shirt pocket and won't think that you are a tasteless boor if you want a shirt pocket on your bespoke shirt. They would say "Yes, why not?" Indeed.

I've had both and so I'll make my own decisions, thank you , and opt for what suits me which is a dress shirt with pocket.

[DieselPope]

I'm sure, like the majority of things in clothing, there is a certain amount of decorum surrounding having/not having a pocket.

I would never dream of putting a pen in my pocket if I had them on my shirt in the first place. Pens make me wary, and are prone to sudden and agressive explosions (or even more surreptitious and evil, the slow leak).

I do, on the other hand, carry a pen. I probably do it in a way that is considered unsavory, by taking them and hooking them against the placket of my shirt, so just the capped end peeks out. It is then hidden by my tie.

Pockets are visually unappealing on a shirt in my opinion. Not having the financial or regional abilities to have a bespoke one made, they seem to fall to close to the waistline of my trousers (as I wear my trousers very high).

All in all, I feel it's a matter of the opinion of the wearer.