Hilditch & Key bespoke

[whittaker]

Emma Willis' service is highly accommodating. The quality of production is also high by London standards. As TVD suggests, it is critical to get the first shirt right. Unfortunately I am still am this stage after placing an order in February.

I've had one or two conversations with Rubinacci in London about their bespoke shirts. They appear to offer an Italian approach. Any experience with them?

I'm also trying Udeshi for some MTM. Anyone else have experience with their new London store?

[rjman]

I'm also trying Udeshi for some MTM. Anyone else have experience with their new London store?

Yeah. I found him charming,helpful, up-front about his merchandise and a blessed relief from the attitude-heavy atmosephere of many upscale shops. His merchandise was elegant yet stylish, of good quality. He has a good reason for every one of the sourcing decisions for each product. A class act.

[whittaker]

I'm also trying Udeshi for some MTM. Anyone else have experience with their new London store?

Yeah. I found him charming,helpful, up-front about his merchandise and a blessed relief from the attitude-heavy atmosephere of many upscale shops. His merchandise was elegant yet stylish, of good quality. He has a good reason for every one of the sourcing decisions for each product. A class act.

That mirrors my experience so far, though all I've purchased to date are some ties and MOP cufflinks. He is sourcing some beautiful overcoats. I've got my eye on a grey herringbone number for the Autumn.

[uppercase]

Emma Willis' service is highly accommodating. The quality of production is also high by London standards. As TVD suggests, it is critical to get the first shirt right. Unfortunately I am still am this stage after placing an order in February.

I've had one or two conversations with Rubinacci in London about their bespoke shirts. They appear to offer an Italian approach. Any experience with them?

I'm also trying Udeshi for some MTM. Anyone else have experience with their new London store?

Rubinacci will make you a good shirt and the stripes will match.

I was measured and fitted in Milan, the shirt was cut and sewn in Naples.

The shirt was returned to Milan, for the first fitting, having been cut using the selected material (not muslin), but it did arrive with muslin collar and cuffs.

If Mariano fits you, he will impress you with performance art by cutting the muslin collar, to suit your face, while you are wearing the shirt. This bit of showmanship adds no real value to the collar and doesn't ensure any sort of unique or flattering collar.

I have some photos of this and will try to find them later.

The shirt will then be returned to Naples for attaching the final collar and cuffs and completion.

The shirt is largely machine sewn except for the collar and the sleeves attachment at shoulder which are handsewn. Nice MOP. Nice hand sewn monogram.

The charge, 2 years ago, was E250 for a standard cloth, perhaps 100s; this charge is a bit steep compared to some other specialist Italian shirtmakers but you need to factor in the "Rubinacci" surcharge.

[whittaker]

The charge, 2 years ago, was E250 for a standard cloth, perhaps 100s; this charge is a bit steep compared to some other specialist Italian shirtmakers but you need to factor in the "Rubinacci" surcharge.

The charges at the London store are rather steeper. The young salesman, in there a few weeks ago, offered me fully hand sewn shirt for £300 (chambray at £200) or machine sewn MTM at £200.

[uppercase]

Well, why am I not surprised at R's London prices!!?

He is a businessman and will charge what the market can bare.

But I know of no one in London who charges Pounds 300 for a shirt! R is obviously trying to position himself at the highest end of the men's luxury market.

In any case, rather than paying those London prices, I would catch the next flight to Naples, enjoy a wonderful vacation and have a few shirts made there - by R or indeed, other, more specialized, makers.

And with change to spare, at that!

p.s. I lost the R photos of the shirt fitting when my hard disk crashed a while ago.

[tteplitzmd]

While quite interesting, the Mayfair Rubinacci shop, is not a place I would buy from. I would say the sales people were charming, but not really knowledgable about bespoke goods. At a minimum, the guy who measures should be the cutter or know something about it. Salesmen have to make a living, and have their role, but I think at these prices too much is going to the landlord, salesman, and other overhead. In my opinion, many of the SR/Jermyn Street shirtmakers are no different.

[TVD]

I only looked once at Rubinacci's shirts in London. All the cloth they had were S200s. At that level, the pricing would be acceptable. But do not forget, Emma Willis will be about the same for a S200s Alumo, and there will be absolutely no handwork in those shirts (no buttons, shanks, holes or whatever).

I did try to find somebody in London to do at least buttons and buttonholes by hand. It is possible, but prohibitively expensive.

[Gruto]

So I went to Emma Willis. No arrogance, no stubborness. I will tell more about that later ... and Budd, very funny place!

A couple of weeks ago, I went to Emma Willis to try the first shirt. I was a little disappointed. Alexandra, EW's assistance, didn't have a clear opinion on the fit, so I had to do all the critic myself: body and sleeves were just perfect but shoulders had to be modified to lie completely smooth on the blades. She pined the shirt, and they will send a modified one in a month.

[whittaker]

A couple of weeks ago, I went to Emma Willis to try the first shirt. I was a little disappointed. Alexandra, EW's assistance, didn't have a clear opinion on the fit ...

Experience has taught me to insist that Emma deals with fittings. Alexandra is rather sweet but lack's Emma's eye and attention to detail.