Antonio ("solo pantaloni") Ambrosi of Naples

[tteplitzmd]

Having returned from 10 days on the Amalfi Coast, I want to show a bit of this Artist's work. Mr. Ambrosi and Son graciously came to my Hotel in Positano. After drinks at Le Sirenuse, we discussed details of the slacks being commissioned, discussed the fabric I brought with me (an Italian tropical worsted), and measurements ensued. At the end of the week, Mr. Ambrosi's son returned, the slacks inspected and tried on. Notwithstanding that they were perfect at the first try on, I can only say that it is a very humbling and rarefied experience to see a man at the top of his game. The degree of hand work exceeds anything I have seen, but I am even more intrigued by the expert eye of the maker. The number of measurements was few, but the eye was more precise than the tape. There was an elegance and simplicity to the process which is reminiscent of what I saw at Leonardo Bugelli's workshop last summer.

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[tteplitzmd]

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[dopey]

Please comment on the placement of the interior fastening button. I will resist saying more less my overwhelming jealousy become too obvious.

[tteplitzmd]

Two options were suggested, father wore one, the son the other. I went with whatever the father had. I can't really explain it, and I still don't really understand what I chose, other than the son's version had more buttons. It is beyond my expertise to even try to describe what they did. None of my other slacks have this design.

[tteplitzmd]

(Pictures by my son, 8 year old Max Teplitz )

[Mark Seitelman]

Bravo, Terry and Max!

[Cantabrigian]

You're report has me seriously considering med school...

Thank you for the photos and wonderful description.

[uppercase]

That's great that you got to try Ambrosi!

I hope to get there when I next get a chance to visit Napoli.

That's quite impressive service to be measured in your hotel and have the trousers delivered in one week.

Did you order 2 pairs of trousers? Were adjustments necessary to any or were they right on the first try?

It looks as if you got just what you ordered.

[tteplitzmd]

It is a long story about how these pants were realized. I still have cloth sitting in Italian customs, which was to have arrived a month ago to Mr. Ambrosi. Timing and family obligations precluded staying in Naples. Mr. Ambrosi indeed was very gracious to come to me. The fitting was perfect, the only thing I would do next time is take in the waist a bit, I think the pasta intake manifest in Positano and affected my initial waist measurement.

I have a second length of the same cloth, for the second pair, if the extra cloth ever comes back to me from Italian customs I will forward it to Mr. Ambrosi. I was not only lucky with his visit, but I think the incredible eye and expertise of the Artist is the most memorable part of the experience.

[jekarwoski]

Excellent trousers and one of my favorite locations.

I vaguely recall a pantsmaker in Napoli that had a daughter (?) in Baltimore...one of the LL members got trousers made via her. Was it Ambrosi ?

[tteplitzmd]

I was speaking with the son about possible makers for my elusive 'golf jacket' and he thought Gennaro Solito (via Toledo, 256), might be game. Does anyone know anything about this Neapolitan tailor?

[smoothjazzone]

Don't know about Solito -- how about Len Logsdail?

[tteplitzmd]

There is an additional stylistic detail I wanted to add: the cuffs, or turn ups, have a button and buttonhole, "attaching" the outer part of the cuff to the inner main length of the pants leg. It can't be readily photographed, and is actually a little tricky to button. This appears to be in lieu of the customary stich that keeps the cuff from "unrolling." The button/hole are on both the madial and lateral sides of each cuff.

Mr. Ambrosi's son was very careful to point this out, especially in the context of pressing and ironing, so as to avoid crushing the button I would have missed it had he not shown me.

[uppercase]

Solito is one of Naples best known tailors.

Establishment, conservative, quietly elegant.

http://www.noveporte.it/portico/solito_im.htm

http://www.mariotalarico.com/english/art02.asp



http://www.noveporte.it/rassegna/duere.htm

http://www.noveporte.it/rassegna/loro3.htm


The button on the trouser cuffs is an interesting detail.

Who knows what you could have designed if you had more time with Ambrosi....Hollywood trousers perhaps?

[tteplitzmd]

I had some correspondence with Mr. Ambrosi's son in law. I remarked upon the relatively few measurements and the father's knowing smile when I asked: "That's it?" Given the remarkable subsequent fit, the son in law replied: "These guys can take measurements in their sleep." I am inclined to agree.